Gotta agree with ya. That is good old FORGED Ford steel. If it was cast I would be a little more worried about the weld. A lot of people assume that metalurgy has progressed in the last 80 years, and it has in that the producers have found ways to make it cheaper, not necissarily better. Luke
irs30, seriously...give up on the whole thing and sell it too me. just kiddin'...if it's backfiring it very well could be a lean mixture in the exhaust. this could be from an air leak in the exhaust side after it's out of the motor or on the fuel side going into the motor. that's were it would start looking. an exhaust valve sticking open, even ever so slightly can do two things. it can fill the exhaust pipe with fresh fuel and it when the plug fires on the compression stroke it will expload in the exhaust. this will also cause excess vibration in the motor.
how do you keep this site from logging you out from not having any activity for a while. not a big deal except when i type a big post and then lose it all because it logs me out....
Type it in a "word" document, then copy and paste. It won't "time out" on you. Or, I think if you check the "remember me" box, it won't time out.
hey bangers- does anyone have some pics of the wiring they have done for a 12 V circuit on the banger. I need some detailed pics- no one has anything like Im doing around my area- you guys are in the know- help me get in the know! I'm just a visual guy. As soon as I can find a part for the brakes I am going to bleed them then drop the body on!!! I get all tingly just thinking about it!
when i type it in a word file it always gives me some sort of "you have too many pics" message or something like that. every time i hit return in the word file it thinks it's a picture....does that make sense?
Going 12v is easy if you use a 12v regulator on top of your Model A gennie. You can get positive or negative earth version from www.funprojects.com I used one for a few years and it was excellent. No wiring changes needed other than those necessary if you are also changing polarity.
who would you guys trust to check and straighten you babbit "B" rods? maybe cross drill the crank and insert the rods as well. let me know.
I do have a big vibration when I am on the high side of second gear, then once I am in third it smothes out, what would be the best way to look for a sticking exhaust valve? Remove the head, and rotate it over? Like I said lets just say I'm stupid when it comes to these bangers.. I am all ears if someone has the time to help me out.. Thank's Ryan, Oh and it's LRS30 I don't want anybody to think I am in any way associated with the IRS,,...
compression test may show sticking valve...although the valve may "eventually" come back down to fully closed when it's been sitting. Vavles can stick just enough at rpm to fool you on the compression test....so here's my point. do a compression test and look for even pressure amoung all cylinders....say within 8 psi of each other. if you find you have 100 or so on all but one..and it's 50...then that will definately give you a place to start. is your vibration in the rpm of the engine or in the speed of the car?
Gotta say I'm bummed right now- was bidding on a '28 Chevrolet 4 on Espay and missed the ending while I was at work (school district has banned that site along with many others)... outbid by a buck. Will keep looking- I'm sold on an early Chevy banger now to build the speedster around and will be asking lots of advice/questions. Thanks for a great thread every month guys!
thanks guys- andy- didnt think anyone would know that! and losing by a $1 sucks Yank-I totally understand about school districts blocking good sites
Polecat, I switched mine to 12V using a 1970 Dodge 46 amp alternator, voltage regulator and connector from Autozone. Total was around $75. You do have to drill out the alternator mounting holes a bit to 1/2", make a spacer from a 1/2" nut and widen the pulley by opening it up on a lathe to hold the 5/8" belt. Pretty easy all in all and the Dodge alternator isn't as ugly as the Delco 1-wires. It will probably get painted black in the near future to hid it a bit more. I'm running the 6v starter hooked with the ground cable to the starter/chassis bolt. Good luck, let me know if you want any specifics on this method. Lots of ways to skin this cat...
Yeah, Fast Four engines and chassis are a dime a dozen (maybe in certain parts of Ohio, if I were to venture a guess) Question for the banger crowd, I will be at Hershey this fall- what carb(s), etc for a '28 Chevrolet should I be on the lookout for in the swap area? I know to keep my eye out for an Olds 3 port head, but beyond that I'm pretty ignorant of parts to give that engine a little more get-up-and-go.
Iam going to look at a doodelbug with a old chevy what is a good price I am going to gess from the pics the engine is stuck
Looks like a '29-'30- no idea on price, but there are some good parts on there (steering, cowl, etc).
Im looking for some inspiration who has any photos of an oil pump being ran off the front of the cam on an ABanger. Im looking into a VW pump but im also wondering what some other options would be. dont want to spend the money on an aftermarket pump would rather spend the time to machine a new front timing cover. any help would be greatly appreciated.
ok, i need some help from the guys running stroker cranks in there bangers. i recently tore the flange off the back of my crank, twisted it right off behind the seal. how have any of you that have had this problem fixed it to prevent it from happening again? any thoughts
I've broken two 3/8" stroker cranks. I still haven't fixed the last one. I switched to a B engine and haven't broken that yet. I'm not going to go back to a stroked crank. I don't think the cost is worth it. I didn't notice that much difference between the stroked engine and a stock stroked B to justify the cost. MY $0.02 Larger fillet radii on all of the bearing surfaces are the only thing you can do. I figured that @ .125" fillet would be about the largest you could go with when offset grinding a B crank, but if you do some welding, you could get .187" fillets. What flywheel are you running? Stock, lightened, aluminum? What are you running it in? How much does the car weigh? What clutch and pressure plate are you running? Are you running a mag? What compression ratio are you running? Is it pressurized and inserted? If it is inserted where is the thrust bearing? . .
i had an 1/8th inch offset, in an "A" block, mains ground down to 1.625, but the break was not in the 3rd main so the radii were good. this is in a full fendered rusty 29 closed cab pickup. flywheel weighed in at 39# and i am running a v8 pressure plate. whole assembly was balanced, full pressure full filtered system at 6.1 compression. i am running electronic ignition. ran great at 1300 miles the flange twisted right off. what location were your 3/8'' cranks breaking? rods? flange? mains?
1st crank broke @ #4 rod. 2nd crank broke at rear main. "1/8" offset" is that 1/8" stroke or 1/4" stroke? If they offset the rod throws, that ends up 1/4" stroke. What rear seal are you using? if your crank is an A crank, then the seal surface has to be welded to create the seal surface. That welding may be a problem. Too small of a fillet there will be a problem too. Have you had starter problems lately? .
What engine speed do you define as "high side"? I usually shift around 1800 rpm if I'm on it... Vibration begins around 1200 during WOT & smooths out around 1550. I'm running stock crank & rods & pistons. Check timing, points gap, dizzy shaft bushing clearance & carb before checking valves. Getting to the valvetrain is easy (pull intake, exhaust, valve cover & head) & it is worth checking the valves & seats just to make sure they are seating correctly. Let us know what you find.
lrs30, I agree with Elrod on following the timing setup from the website he suggested in an earlier post. I use that exact procedure every time I need to retime my engine. I also ground the tip of the timing pin to a dull point to make it easier to find #1tdc (this is one that "abarn" website too.) Keep digging... You'll find the problem(s)! Keep us posted! Aaron
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