Wake up ! It's time, Sept 2009 Banger meet

Hey Folks,

It's official! After reading all I could on the hamb, dreaming, hoping, going to Motor Speedway, some minor searching, narrowing down what I wanted for a first time traditional project, finding it, hocking anything I could and sofa diving for extra change I made a purchase.

Got a great deal from Dirtyest Devils House of Hot Rods, for an A Chassis now all I gotta do is get her home hand my son a wire brush and start cleaning and little elbow grease here, some chassis black there. Then start going thru the mechanicals, cowl here, plywood there and a seat and I am ready to go! Until I scape enough up for a Tudor body. Man I cant wait to get my hands dirty.

I have been reading thru all the Banger Meets and have learned a ton and been inspired by everyones builds, especially Chris's 29 roadster that is a simple and pure Hot Rod. Too bad Bitchin was over used all the build shows or I would have used that adjective as well.

Looking forward to sharing as I progress and can you tell I am excited Sheit I wont be able to get to sleep tonight.

 

JeffreyJames...NC if you still need an original ford coupe seat?.....a while back I sold all my 39-40 stuff to an ol car guy that buys/sells ol ford parts. I had an original 39/40 bench w/split back. he is the IA goodguys REP. email barnfind@ccr.net

 

The "flat hill climb" is a great time...but I'll probably be at the Greenfield swap. Maybe Atkinson will schedule a differet date sometime.

 

congrats man, welcome to the club! looks like you have a solid base to start with.

 

Tbone,

Is it just me.. or is that a right hand drive car cause itlooks like the pedals are one right side?

If so, why would there be a rhd car in the USA? You weirdos all drive on the wrong side of the car.

 

Great, Jimmy's Chevy is back online. I've been waiting to see the progress.

That Piewagn's overdrive unit looks a lot like Borg Wagner R10 OD unit. I Don't know exactly how it works but it should have another gear. Does the solenoid work? It is the big lump projecting from the unit. The other side should have a smaller lump called speed regulator. Originally these units were semiautomatic, but they can be assembled to work manually. I was planing such a unit from -39 Stude to my Chevy, but it slipped of my hands.

 

Yes, the pedals are on the "wrong" side and a bell housing swap is one of the items on the list. I think it was from Argentina.

Hey maybe I can start a new trend and all the Hot Rod builders will be building right hand drive cars

 

Yup, correct.... Argentina! This is the body that came off that Chassis. Solid piece, lots of weird paint on it for no reason, all wet sands off. I through it on a runnin A Chassis with hopes of taking it to the beach... but it's just sitting right now. Soon its going on my 32 chassis, V8. But i need the time to do it...should go quick.

Gotta get out of here, off to go play with a 21 stud, 32 today... I'm late. Damn Hamb.

 

Thinking about a Speedster poject and I need some Banger info. Where can I get a book on T, A and B motors? Thanks.

 

TBone,,,get er done! hahah. will be watching and waiting on progress reports...cool to get the kid involved, can't wait to see you run against brawler500 and VanHorton.

 

OK just a crazy question. Got my C/balanced B crank back from Schwamms, was drilled and the slinger cut for a Terry Burtz seal. The rods were also redone and I told them what I was gona do, running full pressure. OK, so the holes in the dippers were not drilled open, so do I leave the sub pan in and still let the rods splash oil around, to oil to the wrist pins or remove it, thinking oil through off from the rod journals will do the job. Iceman

 

Ya Man I'll keep the progress reports coming and watch out. If I have too I will see how long these babbit pounders hold up to a shot of giggle gas

Progress report 1.
Both Buddies with trailers are not available this weekend, something about going away for the weekend, WTF??? How dare they!

 

My opinion is that you still need the inner splash pan. Two major reasons.

#1 The main source of lubrication for the cam lobes and tappets comes from the oil that is slashed up from the rods dipping into those trays.

#2 is the baffles under that pan help keep the oils from sloshing away from the oil pump. If you remove the inner pan, you remove those baffles.

.

 

Why the heck would anyone in Iowa hold an even the same day as the ISU-Iowa football game? Greenfield does the same dumb thing. One needs to switch to the weekend prior, the other the weekend after.

I know not everyone in the state gives a rat's ass about the game, but it IS a big deal to a lot of folks (bigger than the car stuff).

 

I believe that Polyform alredy makes a fiberglass Whippet grill shell.

 

What kind of info are you looking for?
History?
Comparison / advantages?
Identification ?

.

 

tape the f##ken guy game and do the car stuff my 2 cents

 

This is the pan from my Model T touring. Can anyone tell anything about it? I talked to some guys in a T club and they did not know anything about it. I think it had Townsend cast in it.

 

Anybody running a muffler other than stock? I've decided that I don't like the sound of 1-3/4" straight pipe, but really like the sound of the open header. However, that smells and backfires a lot right under the floor - too scary/smelly for the kids and Missus. Something about the length difference really changes the tone from bubbly/nice to rattle-ly/annoying.

So what are you running? I'm thinking 8N tractor muffler at this point.

 

I'm far from needing a muffler but I was thinking of running a smitty or some other sort of glasspack when I get to that point.

 

The pan / hogshead looks basically stock. The finned dip pan is an aftermarket "Hop Up" pan. The were used to help cool the oil but their biggest advantage was merely aesthetic. Most of the ones that I've seen are the equivalent of a deep sump oil pan, used to increase the oil capacity of the T engine. Yours doesn't look much deeper then the stock dip tray.
Here is the deep sump version:

 

I'm pretty sure the 8N muffler is too small. Try one for a Farmall A or B. I run one on my tudor once in awhile and it has a nice deep tone.

 

Yes, Yes, and Yes. Also, performance parts, modifications, all that good stuff.

 

Dick,

Some great reference books were written by Murray Fahnstock (Spelling may not be correct)- they're usually around $20-$25 on Espay.

"Model T Speed Secrets" and " The Model T in Speed and Sport" are two of the titles, the other I can't remember at the moment.

 

I have a unit close to yours, does not have the tail housing in it. It looks like R 10 unit and some one has converted the solenoid to manual instead of electric. should go into overdrive if it works, dont use reverse with the cable to the arm pulled out or it takes out the sun gears and overdrive does not work. I have a copy of the factory manuel and can look up anything you need
hope this helps
Ken

 

Hey guys, in the Snyders catalog they have a "timing kit" that bolts to your engine so you can put a timing light on it and not use the pin anymore. I have a B distributor that I want to put in it, will this kit allow me to do so? The motor is an A.

 

Thanks kenagain! Got it identified and was given operating instructions!
After almost 20yrs, I can finally use it. My Pop and I were afraid to touch it, we didn't know how it worked.

Here's the thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394355

Man....what a difference! Had it up to 67 mph and it was just loafing! Don't think I'm goin' back there again! But, I will be able to take it on the highway and at least do 55.

 

Wildfire,
I'm running a glass pack, and it sounds awsome!!

 

Ok.......on my Lion Speed Head, it seems a few think it will destroy my bottom end. They make it sound like these bangers are so "fragile". I thought they were supposed to be fairly stought. Any thoughts?? Crazydaddyo?? Rich Fox?? What's the deal?? Will it kill my babbit??

 

I very much doubt it. If you engine is sound and the head has not been resurfaced to many times you will be fine. Remember, to compress air it has first to get into the combustion chamber. Unless your at wide open throttle, and have two or more carbs the actual compresion pressure will never get to great. Lugging the engine, up hill under a load at WoT may cause diffaculty. But lugging is always bad.