Wake up ! It's time, Sept 2009 Banger meet

I just installed a new copper fuel line. What do you guys think.......too much?? How's it look? Should I go with less coils, or put the old steel line back on??

 

Thanks for the schedule.

Jeff

 

Copper will eventually crack at the ferrules. When we were kids we would try things like bar soap or wrap the line with string but all were just temporary so we just made a new one out of Copper.

 

Will, The head is in storage but i will write the measurement down, thanks again.

 

Hey Will! Not only do Firestone's kinda stink... and outta round, but double check your wheels.

I too have sent a few Firestones back, my friends as well. But, I had believed a few of my wheels to be pretty decent, till they were put on a jig. All the centers on my steel wheels were out. Now everything is buttoned up, little shaving of the inner backside... and now I'm flying around town.

I see you have the wires, but just double check it all... can't blame everything on Firestone.

 

I found a Model a Truck yesterday in the woods, I will probly buy it, but I have a
question. It had a four speed, The frame was 20 feet long or so, and it still had the
banger. I was not aware of a 4 speed in and model A stuff, But this being a big truck
I'm out of my very small knowlege base. What do you guys know about it? It was a
top loaded, top shifted truck tranny, reminded me of my Jeep-Ford T-18 from the top.
Also looked like an open driveline for a few feet then the TT started.

I feel stupid cuz I forgot the camera, Sorry guys I knew you'd be dissapointed.

There was also a '27 ish T sedan (I think), The dash looked '27 anyway.
A tree fell on it and I was wondering what one without a tree looked like?
The fenders, cowl, front doors, more body parts, But some of the back has
been cut and I can't identify how it should look, Help?

Jeff

 

Yeah, I figured with the vibration it would eventually. But, like you said, just put another on. I'll just have to monitor it. This thing doesn't get too many miles anyway. I can keep the steel one with me just in case.

 

Since it is Labor day weekend I thought I would labor some on the Morton & Brett Dodge Bros head that Bob loaned me. It had no rocker assembly or much of a hint of what was once there. Plugs and welding where it used to go. Bob had these rocker arms form something so this is about how it will go. I need the valve cover hold downs/AN -4 bulkhead fittings for oil to the shafts and some lock bolts to hold the shafts from rotating. Then I'll send the assembly to a rebuilder for new shafts, rebushing and regringing the rockers.

 

Dear Lord, if I see that car again I'm gonna hurl! LOL! I've seen that thing referenced on here and other places a lot actually,... guess I'm that lucky! ha.

Yeah very cool car.

 

Glad to hear this. back in the saddle again.

 

any more info on how you checked for run out and did the shaving on the inner back side
thanks Bill

 

Thanks for the tips Mel, I will check the wheels carefully before blaming the tires. I had no problems with the 5.00 X 16 dirt track tires, so I doubt the wheel is to blame but you never know... I can only see the driver's side tire while driving, it looks pretty bad and I noticed it got a LOT of weights when they balanced it. Passenger side has a normal weight to balance so I am hoping it might be OK.

Will

 

A buddy of mine is in the wheel bussiness... he made a simple jig out of an old hub. Actually, he has two... one horizontial, and one vert. You can see it all by eye... Then there is another fixture on his mill. Every 40 Ford wheel I brought him, the centers were off.

At 60 MPH, my wheels would shake like a MOFO... Not anymore... Car handles like it should now. I also changed my front bearing this week too, huge difference. Also adjusted my clutch linkage, and break pedal. I'm getting ready for the Alter Boys show on Sept. 25th. Think it's a 5 hr. ride at least.

Such a busy summer, all this work was put off, nice to finally have the time to dial it all in. Looking forward to a real ride...

 

It's amazing... those tractor/dirt track tires are right on. My buddy runs his V8 flattie at 80 miles an hour from Albany NY to my house all the time... bout 3 and 1/2 hours. Those tires are made pretty well. The Firestones....are a gamble. But unfortunetly, it is one of the only pie crusts. I put the Excelsior's on my 32 banger powered roadster....as when I'm up, I'm gonna run it everywhere.

 

I put the Excelsiors on my A too. No problems so far. I've had her goin' pretty good now that the OD is working, even without being balanced, I've got no noticeable vibration.

 

I spin my wheels on a front spindle and have found some good looking wheels out quite a bit. My Modified developed a bad front wheel hop problem and as we had the wheels and Firestone fires balanced originally and all the weights seemed to still be there we tried messing with the suspension. Nothing we tried solved the problem. So I had the front wheels/tires rebalanced at a different shop and the hop was gone. The last time it ran at high speed (84 MPH) I was concerned but the driver said it ran straight and smooth.

 

Latest project, removing flywheel locating pin from flywheel with counterweights welded on. I made a small "pusher" that locates from or straddles the pin and fits over the flange drilled and tapped it for 3/8 24 bolt and pushed the bad pin out.

Crazy, if you read this, I have measured the radius on the rod throws on this strokercrank and they have a .060 radius or 1/16". how much did yours have?

Will, do you have a brand on that primer or is it just a flat paint?

Thanks

 

Bill,
My first one had @ .030. I received this one as a complete engine and didn't learn that the fillets were that small until I pulled it apart after it broke.
The engine was brand new and I had no reason to question it. Especially for how much I paid for it!!!!!!! I asked for .125" rad on the replacement but when I picked it up, it only had .080". I didn't like it, but I was assured by the engine builder that originally built it that it was the best they could do.
Needless to say, I now have 2 broken cranks and this last one took out the rear main. So now I have to have it line bored before a new crank will go back in it.

Keep in mind mine were 3/8" stroked. As I recall Yours is only 3/16"?

.

 

Put the front end up in the air and spun the wheels - wheels are fine but the new 6.00 X 16" Firestones are at least 1/8" out of round... Both of them. Unbelievable!

Hey Bill, the primer is just reglar ole DP90. It is holding up OK but I am still debating about going maroon, having the Shaws do a maroon patina brush job, or getting some striping done on the black. At the moment, I am more worried about getting front tires that are round...

Will Kimble

 

Is the 3/8" the offset or the total stroke increase?

The crank I have is offset .157 (5/32) giving a total stroke of 4 .562 or 4 9/16". I'm using some of those new "A" rods with the one piece inserts and they only have a .060 corner break or chamfer so even with the insert not filling the rod completely I doubt that they would work with .125 without modification/ The old timer's used the early 28 rods as they considered them to be stronger. I think they were smaller on the OD of the big end. I might have the reason backwards. The early rods were a cross instead of the later "H" or "I" cross section. Having done some tool grinding in the past I could understand why they might hesitate to dress a larger radius on the wheel.

 

Some tire shops used to have tire truing machines that were basicily large lathes that they used to true out of round tires. Do yours look good at the bead?

 

My Dad talked about getting tires shaved... Should I have to do that with brand new tires? If so, I won't run the Firestones. I wish I had kept my dirt track tires, the car was spooky in transition but at least they were round and the car went straight.

I am going to expect that Coker can replace these with tires that are round. If that doesn't work out to my satisfaction I guess I will have to go back to dirt track fronts or pony up for Excelsiors.

Will Kimble

 

hope to see ya at the Alter Boys show
I will have to save a old hub to make a spin fix.
next year if you wont to go to a good show take a drive up for milltown. If I had to drive 5 hrs that would be the show for me
hope to see ya
Bill

 

I'd heard that getting bias ply tires shaved was pretty much the norm back when bias plies were themselves the norm.

-Dave

 

Bill,
3/8" was total stroke. B crank offset ground .188" to A rod spec.

I'm using Aftermarket 4130 "H" beam rods with the one piece bearings too. I had to modify one to clear the radius, but I did a cross section drawing of the area and felt that there was plenty of room for a 1/8" fillet. I'm a die maker and have dressed many large radii on grinding wheels. It is not all that hard to do. If it cost more money to do, I would have been happy to pay to get what I wanted. Let me make that decision. If their reason was that they didn't want to dress a bigger radius, then that is just lazy. .

.

 

daddyo,
it's good to here the tech engine talk on here.

anyone know what the timing curve, start and total should be on a stock ported "b" motor with super winfield head, evans intake with dual 81's. I have touring cam now but am going to a 1u in about a month. while i've got it down I will put timing mark on pulley and arm to show degrees or maybe order a pulley that has the marks on it. I don't want an undersized one though. any thoughts.

 

ok all you banger gents out there, i would like some input on rebuilding engines in the midwest (around Indiana). I have not posted on here in ages but have been quietly gathering parts and saving pennies to build my B. I have a G28T diamond block B that i believe was an old hot rod motor, maybe a back up, it seemed to have been unfinished but the head looked like it had run a couple times... and it was painted red to boot! haha. i have an original alluminum super winfield head that i have spent hours polishing, a new mallory sparker and a mystery cam (it looks pretty hot though). i think i have enough to get the thing built but i am 22 and trying to buy a house in this economy so money is tight! so i was just wondering if anyone has any good or bad reviews on shops around indiana. i really want this thing built right and built to be driven.. i'm not the type to keep things hidden away and never drive them. any help with this would be greatly appreciated! thanks!

 

I agree dressing the radius on is not a big thing. I used to make parts for the original tangental dresser, (dresses from an angle to a radius) The old guy that made the often copied original was a neighbor. The point I was making is that they must then dress the OD of the wheel to remove the larger radius when they use the wheel for whatever their standard radius is. It would require probably .100 off of the OD of the wheel.

 

I think I'm having clutch problems with my A.... When I shift into reverse and release the clutch, it jerks violently and repeatedly, but stops once it gets moving. Friends told me that it was just dirty and that it would go away after a while. 2000 miles later it's still doing it. It only happens in reverse. Any ideas what I'm dealing with here?

 

Sounds like you've got some teeth missing on the reverse idler ( correct term?? ) gear. If it was the low/reverse gear, it would do it in first too. Does it bang? It's not hard to get the top of the gearbox off and inspect the gears. Drain your oil first.