Hot Rods >>>1935 Ford Coupe: An Idiots Guide To Buiding A Hot Rod<<<

Ah Ha!! Thanks Razin Cain & Dooley. That's what I was thinking but wanted to be sure.

Now my question is will the Hurst Mount interfere with anything??? And I am not quite sure I have ever seen on up close. Is the whole thing the saddle or are there mounts that go from the frame to the Saddle?? Weld or Bolt in??

 

Can't say for sure I got to go see but I think bolt in,as for any other interference I think you will be fine.Think is a big word at this point?

 

I agree I think, again think cause I have not seen a hurst mount in awhile, that is bolts to the old flathead mount, the circle part of the crossmember, I know my car ran a hurst mount with a early sbc with a mechanical fuel pump...

 

If all this is true I guess my next step is to wonder why the clearance between the Steering shaft and the block are so tight. I could not fit a manifold in there even if it dumped out right. I have an idea that the engine could go up a bit so that it provides more room. Either that or the Manifold that I used was just too big.

 

Awesome build. I hope my wife will be as cool with all my car stuff as your wife is with your's.
Check out the photos on Bass's roadster build. He fabs a Hurst style motor mount for it. I know your's isn't sitting on a '32 frame, but I would think it's similar enough to get an idea. Those photos should be helpful as he's mounting a small block chevy, and he's doing it on pretty much a bare frame so everything is easy to see. In my mind, the hurst style mount seems like the way to go. Good luck and I hope this helps. Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks Clemsoncrewman, I actually was thinking about Bass' SBC when I decided to run one but I forgot to go back and look at the engine mount. That should help for sure. I think I am just going to have to get creative. Thanks for the nice words.

 

ANOTHER QUESTION!!!!

Should the engine mounts be finalized after the stance is set? Won't the engine's intake be at an angle if I level it now and then the rake is taken into account later??? So I guess what I am asking is, should I finalize the stance and then worry about the Hurst mounts and such because I want the intake set at 0º???

Oh and Bass' own Hurst style mount is rad to say the least. It actually might be the way to go seing how I need room in all the right places.

 

Jeffie - Aren't 35-40 frames the same? My '40 is sbc with Hurst style front mount; it uses a '56 Chev. passenger side manifold on the driver's side to let the exhaust dump forward. If you need I could run it by the clubhouse tomorrow night ... vic

 

Oh sure Vic now you want to come to our club house. After all the abuse and harassment that I endured over the weekend don't you think I suffered enough???

By all means come to the shop tomorrow night but don't worry about the manifold. My '35 is at home and I'll think I might be able to come up with one. Thanks for the Tip. Is your '40 using a stock steering box or are you using something a bit more appropriate for your age??? Just kidding hahah.

 

The steering box is only 5 years older than me... (it's a stock '40). Fuckin' punks..... vic

 

No, engine has got to be correct for the frame, not the angle (unless it was very extreme). Think about it, if you mounted the engine with the rear down (to make up for the rake) then that would make the transmission also angled downward, and so your torque tube will be pointing way down. In other words, it would fuck shit up.

 

35 to 40 frames should be the same normally...
besides the mounting holes.

 

Alright, HotDamn & Sinticket came over to help me comprise a list of things that need to be ordered or found. This is what we have found...

>>>The fan blade that I have is hitting the Radiator and I am running a short water pump and there was no pulley on either.

>>>The only option for the exhaust is as Krusty40 said. Hurst mount with '56 Chevy manifold.

Here are my questions????

Should I recore my radiator or buy a new one?

Is there a Stock 4 blade SBC fan that is used when space is important?

What exactly will I need to run a Hurst Style engine mount?

Does anybody have a spare Passenger side 1956 Chevy Exhaust Manifold?

Does anyone have a picture of a Stock 1935 Coupe (non split) seat?

That should keep me busy until have more for now.

Thanks everybody for the responses. Chris, yeah that all makes sense now that you put it like that.

 

My 35 has a 1966 283, it mounts from the side using a Chassis Engineering mount. It did have a Vega box but we swapped it out for a late 50's early 60's chevy varible ratio power box. It's a Tudor so with 4 people on board the vega box couldn't handle the weight.

Anyway, it has a right side ram horn to get the exhaust around the steering box. The rag joint ( as I recall ? ) was shorter as we didn't have a lot of room.
The engine sits with a slight rake to the rear as it should. Remember on 35 and 36's the radiator also angles back quite a bit. Fan clearance can be an issue.

My fan is about 3/4" from the radiator at the top and maybe an 1" at the bottom because of the rake of the radiator. The fan is also too low on the radiator, but it cools fairly well except for sitting in traffic for long periods.
I have about 9" of radiator above the highest point on my 15" fan blades. So it's no where near center.

The way to correct this is a water pump riser...they will center the fan better on the radiator by raising the pump about 5"....But as you go higher with the fan it will get closer to the radiator because of it's angle back at the top.
I figured if I put a riser on my car the fan blades would be about a 1/4 " from the radiator at the top.

The axel is a heavy 32 w/ a 4" drop & mono leaf. It's sit's real low....you can see where we bopped the oil pan on purpose with the tie rod to gain more clearance.

It's a good cruiser with this set up.... no problems at all. Steers bitchen.

I'm too tired to resize the pic's...

 

I'd run your raditor. Nothing wrong with a good orriginal. Try it out at least

Can't help you on the second question

All you need to run the Hurst mount is 4 bolts and the stock Ford engine mount donuts

I think my Dad has some 265 shit he saved up for his 56 wagon- I'll see if has a manifold

Heres your seat pic below (35-40 coupes used same basic seat)





And heres some old pics of my 39 standard (pretty close with what your doing space wise) with the 283 in it. Hard to tell, but I think it has an early front dump Exhaust manifold, and note the fan vs. radiator. You can barley see the Hurst mount in that pic.



Just think, that ol flathead would have just slid right in

 

Very informative thread, for a buncha idiots anyways!

Chris, thanks for the suspension secrets!

JJ, its gettin there eh. Can't wait to see more....

-Shiny

 

I was telling my wife about the Flathead again tonight. I would have been perfect....but at least a couple grand to get it there so I am still going to struggle with the SBC I guess.

Thanks for the pics Chris & Searcher. I think something is definitely off because I don't have any room in between the radiator and fan blade. I am talking maybe a 1/8" when I adjust the radiator support rod all the way out. I really do not have the room that you guys seem to have and the valve cover is about 1/4" from the firewall on the passenger side. I wonder what's going on there.

As for the seat, I now can see that there was a Wood base that wraps around the seat that I am missing. Probably can just make one.

 

Excuses are for guys who tame tigers and shit. I have a running 8BA sitting in my garage that I will never use. Change the pumps, install early head and intake, and there you go. If you wanna get fancy you can even put a 59AB cam and distributor in, then it'll fool most people into thinking it's an earlier engine. But I'm sure you'll end up figuring out the SBC (sigh)

 

Hey, and as far as your fit problem, are you sure the engine is sitting low enough, meaning as low as it's gonna sit once mounted?

 

The engine has Chassis Engineering mounts which I assumed took some of the guess work out and mounts the engine as they had planned. I thought about raising it to get the manifold in but that raises a good thought. Perhaps there are spacers or as the very least the Hurst would allow the engine to sit lower gaining me some room up front where I need it. I'll check it out.

 

Look at Bass' and compare, see if you can figure out were the balancer would be compared to the crossmember and go from there. I bet the engine is not sitting were it is suppost to. Too high and you'll run into all kinds of clearance problems beings that radiato is closer to the cowl the higher up you go.

 

Not to sound stupid but are you sure you have the short waterpump? And if it is the short pump, what spacer do you have?

-Shiny

 

Not sure on the spacer but my waterpump measures 5 7/8 which I am pretty sure is the smaller one. The spacer I am going to have to get back to you on though.

 

Great thread, keep us posted

 

JJ - My car has stock radiator and mechanical fan (no shroud) and runs 180-190* under almost all conditions (does not have a billet capped overflow tank, however).Bring a camera and a tape measure to the clubhouse and we'll figger this out; I need to see your twin brother's new ride anyhow... vic

 

I had a stock radiator with the hurst mount, a sbc with short water pump and a 17 or 16 inch flex fan.

We had the radiator re cored and with the chassis eng mounts and the thicker radiator I could not fit a fan at all and had to run an electric in front of the rad.


I bought a walker over the winter, and it was thinner enough so I can run a 14 inch mech fan, and the difference is amazing.

 

I was running the stock radiator for a few years too with no problems, until it went south. It was almost as much to fix it as the new Walker, so I went with the Walker, which is 4 core.

 

I'm kind of jumpin in late here but ....

In the past I've used the Pete and Jakes (?) bolt in motor mounts. They are less big/bulky/beefy vs the CE and Hurst mounts. I used this with a Vega box and rams horn exhaust. Weedetr street rods has some pipe to make the sharp bend for steering box and column clearance. If not, later styled SBC truck exhaust mani's pushes out towards the back, giving you room. It all depends on your wishbone, steering, and column setup.

As for clearance up front, the SWP is the only way to go.

 

Alright, thanks everybody. I have been thinking about getting a Walker because they claim to be not as thick as the competition but can keep a mild SBC cool all day long. I guess that may be the route to take.

Vic, I appreciate you coming to the shop. I am getting surgery this afternoon but should be able to make it there by 6 or so. I'll bring the camera. Oh and for the record, have you seen my twin brother next to me??? Dwarfism does not run in my family. Haha just kidding Jeremy.