1929 chevy full sheet metal kit car

Hey a new guy..I'm keeping my wood in the doors..the dam doors are heavy but all of the wood is very solid and the windows are intact and work great...I cannot see tearing the doors apart...the cowl wood where the front door hinges are mounted is all new...I might overlay some metal over the wood and add some bracing inside...???? when I look at this area I'm wondering how to get the dam wood out...see pics below...however I might take the wood out and replace with sheetmetal...I figure since the doors are heavy...I might need to use steel in the hinge areas...I bought this car all apart and someone did some nice work on some of the woodwork..As far as the sheetmetal of the body..look at 29Ghost pictures...he done a great job on keeping track of his build..

 

I agree with the other guys there is a lot of advantages to leaving some of the wood for upholstery attachment. I did not have any wood left except in a few spots so most of mine is square tubing. Behind the dash, left it for dash mounting it was in great condition, above both doors but I will cap these with sheetmetal, and a few spots inside the doors at the door strikers and hidden inside, if your wood is good no need to take out.
In taking the wood out. With all the toe nails leaded over you can sometimes do more damage to the sheetmetal removing the wood than if you just capped it and left it alone. And upholstery can be attached to steel structure just as easy as wood it's just done a different way...John

 

I can't believe I haven't posted on this thread yet! Now I can keep track of it. Lots of good info here fellas...keep it coming.

 

I just saw this '31 on ebay. Not mine but wish it were. Someone here ought to jump on it. Joe.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...temZ160363544489QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks#v4-30

 

You should have sheetmetal panels that will cover most of the door jamb wood at the lower and upper exposed a piller. except the hinge area the hinges should bolt flat to the wood. then if you made a panel to brace the interior or back side for strength so the bolts or nuts wont pull into the wood when tightened you should be good to go. I see no need to remove your wood if it's in good condition and the old wood lasted for a long time out in the elements, and I am sure it will be treated to a nice cozy garage some of the time for the rest of it's life...John

 

The catch on mine is that most of the wood needs replaced. Some of the pieces might work as templates for replacements. The tops of the doors, for instance, appear to be in decent condition but the wood at the top of the windshield is pretty trashed and some of the structural wood is missing entirely. The body was disassembled when I got it but "barn kept" for many years. I'll probably do something similar to what Ghost did with tubing on the back and for the top.

The real problem is that the frame is bent, mostly the right front. I've found some measurements that might allow me and my porta power to resolve some of it but I haven't actually plotted out how I would go about that. We'll see...

This is a great thread, btw. Thanks everyone for sharing their work.

 

My fame was also bent on the drivers side front right about the crosmember area had to make a jig and then with a lot of tape measure work a few cuts in the frame, these frames are pretty easy to manipulate. And with some welding inside and out (before boxing) It's all good now...John

 

I have both of my frame rails...I do not need them...could section them and send them out...??

 

Nice offer. What year are the rails and are they the same as a '33 half-ton truck? I'm headed out to the shop in a minute to stare at mine to see what I might do. It appears the right front (passenger's side) is the bent part: up a bit and rolled out, if I'm remembering correctly. I spent the night pushing Sprint Cars with my '59 CJ5 and I'm off to a slow start this morning, so I'll let you know for sure on your rails a little later.

 

SchlitzMan, I sent you a PM.

 

I'm thinking I'll have to remove the cross member rivets, at least those in front, then weld them back in once the rails are straight. I'll box the frame, as well. I'm planning on using the stock suspension (leafs), for the most part. What did you use for measurements? A guy at the VCCA sent me some body drawings but they aren't complete as far as some exact frame measurements (specifics such as cross measurements, rivet to rivet or hole to hole.)

 

I agree, pie-cut at the wrinkle(s), get it straight the easy way, then fish-plate-box to restore the rigidity.

 

How far back are your rails bent and how bad??? My frame was bent just in front of the crossmember so the fix was a little easier. Except I removed the original crossmember in favor of a 32 ford style. After I installed this is when I noticed the bent frame. As for measurements I had none. All I did was tape square everything up front to back side to side using a lot of the original rivets or body mounting holes as a measurement reference, some of these are dead on believe it or not. And as nash has said if you have to cut your frame, fish plate the back side before you box it. And you should be good to go...John

 

John, here's a few photos of the frame rails:

Red arrow points to a divit in the top of the right rail, which is not on the left rail.



Left rail (driver's side) appears to be relatively straight.



Right rail (passenger's side) is pushed in and up, although you can't see how far up in this photo. The up part is mostly where it should be turning down. The top of the rail is also rolled in a bit, as well.




The right rail looks like it would have to move out at least an inch to inch and a quarter or so, which would be difficult with the cross members attached. I don't see any obvious kinks in the cross members but you'd think they'd be there. I'm planning on using the stock suspension but I wouldn't necessarily have to put the stock cross members back in. I'm thinking at least the front cross member should come out, then be straightened and maybe put back in.

 

great job! I have a 33 Chevy Coupe and a 40 Chevy 2dr sedan I think your doing a great job on that

 

Sorry...I'm late on the email..the rails I have are off my 28 Chevy National 4 door...great shape...I've removed all of the cross members from each rail...they did twist somewhat after I removed the cross members...common I guess...I'm emal ya..

 

Thanks, Schlitz. I PM'd you...

 

Yeah. I agree I would take the front crossmember rivets out on the passenger side first and see if the frame jumps back any. Then cut and straighten the frame rails at the damage or divit point, pull everything back into square then carefully weld bracing to hold position. Most likely the rivets on the rear crossmember have been stretched, or bent, and will move back easily. Then when everything looks good start at the divit point and move forward constantly checking your square as you weld. last thing you do is straighten and repair and install your front crossmember. But I think you know this cuz your description of everything is dead on. John

 

Hey John,

Let me know if you decide not to use the Dodge lights, I have been looking for that style for my 29

Thanks Mike

 

Will do. But don't hold your breath I will keep an eye out for another set for ya...John

 

some really nice rides. where do you find a all metal body and how much are they?

 

Yeah, I've straightened a few circle track race car frames over the years but those were usually just the frame horns. Had a few strapped to frame machines for many hours trying to get it back. On tubing cars, you just cut and replace what's bent, more or less. This project is different because I want it to look good when finished. Race cars (mine anyway) always seemed to get bent up again.

I'm thinking that once I get everything square and, as part of the boxing exercise, I just might weld in all the cross members and either keep or get rid of the rivets. Any thoughts on keeping the rivets? I might also start over with SchlitzMan's rails and use my cross members. We'll see.

Now I know why this truck was sitting in my wife's aunt's field for 40 years.

 

The rivets aren't neccesary after welding. But if there not in your way or don't look to bad, just leave them. your truck is a 33 chevy and 16 oz s frame is a 28 I think the wheelbase jumped from 107 to 109 inch in between those years but if you are going to just use parts, there should be no problem...John

 

I was worried about the lengths being different. The only parts I would need off it, if I didn't use the whole thing, would be the right horn and the rail back to the biggest bend on mine. I doesn't sound like it comes with any cross members.

 

Apologies if it seems I'm making this thread all about me. But...

I removed the rivets on the right side for the two front cross members and the rail came back out some on it's own. I haven't heated it yet but it looks hopeful. I should probably refill the gas bottles before I start in with the rosebud.

 

I apologized awhile back to the guy that started this thread. And his response was (no worry) as long as we keep talking chevy It's all good. Plus other than the termite and bow ties social group, that I hate to say, it seems like no goes to (Sorry 29 bowtie but I keep checking in) . This is the best one for a lot of info, so keep it comiing. And I am glad your frame is bouncing back I thought it might...John

 

John, you seem to know a lot about these frames. Do you know if the front rails on a 28 Chevy National 4 door are the same as the '33 pickup? You said the 28's are shorter by about two inches. They look close and 16ozSchlitzMan is working up some dimensional drawings so I can see if the fronts match up. I'm thinking of patching them in if I can get them here cheaply enough.

 

You give me too much credit. I'm thinking there might be a small height difference between the two. but I am not sure on the truck. I think your best bet would be to check with 16oz for measurements. My frame height measurements at the cowl, are 4 3/4 tall by 2 inches deep these are out side frame measurements from a 28 2 door and should be the same as his 4 door, cuz they are the same frame. SORRY best I can do...John

 

Thanks for the input, John. He's getting the measurements soon, so that will help.

 

Sent your tracing out today....let me know...the guy from Maine!!