I have a 58 F100 and need some ideas. It currently has a 302/automatic in it, but needs brakes, brake lines, and master cylinder. I am considering a frame swap with an S10, would that be doable fairly easily? In researching costs for repairing the brakes, disc brake conversion up front, new brake lines, etc it may be cheaper to swap the frame. What do you think? I want to be able to lower it some. It has enough missing stuff that I am not interested in a restoration, but want a functional driver.
I don't know if it will fit on an s10 frame or not,but as long as your frames not rusted or bent,you can bend new hard lines and replace all your rubber lines and everything for under $200.You can lower it be removing a few of your leaf springs or buy a dropped axle from Sid and flip the rear.Good luck. Stony
When I looked into what to do about my 65's Ibeams alotta guys said a dakota clip. Truck clip in a truck makes more sense. I dunno how similar a 58 frame is two the 65 being straight axle but I'd imagine its not too far off from the other pre-Ibeam frames.
Waaaaaaay tooo much to make it fit right. And why would you anyways??? For less work,and very litle $$$ you can update the brakes and lower the crap outta the truck. Sometimes what seems like the easy way in your head is really just an easy way of asking for more problems. A functional driver is not out of the question with your stock frame,if so,I guess all of us haven`t a clue what we are talking about!
It's not a Dakota clip. It's a crossmember made by our own ElPolacko (Industrial Chassis, Inc) that uses Dakota steering, brakes, anf IFS. If yo can weld at all, this is by far the best way to go. If you can't weld, look into a 2003-06 Crown Vic crossmember-nearly a bolt-in.
S10 is to small for 57-60 f100"s, people use s10 on 48-56 f100's I lowered my 57 taking off most of the leafs and I put air shock on the back, look good and is a cheap way to do it GOOD LUCK CHEERS!!
I am looking to build it as a driver. Most important, it needs to be able to stop. People drive stupid here.
Keep your drum brakes adjusted...they stop fine. Lower it as stated above, but no S-10 frame,...more b.s. than needed, AND, in the end, it's bastardized...that will haunt you forever...( or at least it would me...) You can get 'em low fairly easy...unless you want it on the ground completely...but it will just look like a mobile home then! Enjoy it, they are cool-ass platforms.
My brake master cylinder was rusted out, and the brake lines are rusted through as well. Inline Tubing makes a complete set of brake lines for about $150 or so that have all the right bends, etc. I have a GM master cylinder/power assist available to replace the master cylinder. What do you think about the disc brake conversions on the front axle?
My local Napa had wheel cylinders for fairly cheap, I think $ 16.00? Hoses, I think I paid $ 70 or $ 80 bucks for... I used a non-power late 70's style GM master...cheap, and, in my case, for my combo, I probably don't have the vaccum for a booster anyway... I wouldn't bother with a brake line kit, because you can get 3/16" line at the parts depot too, and just make up your own... I guess the kit is pretty cheap though...I'm just used to grabbing my stuff around here, we have a guy with every brake fitting/brass adapter known to man in town here, and every length line, so its easy enough...
The common swap is a '74-'75 corvette MANUAL ( 1.0" bore ) master cylinder. It works with the '71-'76 GM Big Car (Impala/Catalina/Electra) calipers commonly available with the 57-60 front disc swap kits. The GM calipers mate to 12" '83-'93 F150 2WD rotors. it's a very capable combination for a 3600 LB truck. The rotors will bolt to the original 57-60 spindles with adaptive bearings. The calipers require bolt-on brackets. You can buy a whole MC setup- master cyl, matched disc/drum combination valve and bracket, vacuum assist canister, pushrod, and master cylinder bracket that is 57-60 specific for something like $250 i think. It's completely bolt-in. A small diameter ( 7" or 8") vacuum canister will allow you to run a clutch master cylinder in the stock location- the dual diaphragm units have more power than the 11" monsters from the 70's. Master Power, Performance Online, No Limits Engineering, and Classic Performance all sell this I believe. Check ebay, i got mine on special and it was way below list. if you're thinking of a frame swap from a 100K salvage yard S10- not worth it IMO. Are the parts your pricing for the original F100 chassis, 100K parts? Do you wants something bastardized (as already mentioned) that will require a bunch of doodling, fail at some point, and then end up costing you as much as the correct parts for the existing setup? Look around here for awhile, man. There are a ton of knowledgeable people and dudes doing way cool shit with the 57-60's. It's not just a shop truck or beater anymore, that's all. It's worth investing a little in the original configuration- that's what we're all about. rockauto.com is a great resource because they will usually supply the complete specs of the part, show it's compatibility with other vehicles, and sell it pretty much the best price. Also- if you want to get by cheap on lowering, find a reputable spring shop. They should be able to rebuild your stock front springs (new linings, buttons, and bushings) for something like $75 an axle. If your springs are in good shape to begin with, they can also reverse the main eye, de-arch, and remove a leaf or two. This will give you 3-4" easy, and your still legit. maybe you'll only need a tie rod drop kit- about another $40. This is the old-school way and it still works. Cool shit. Good luck!
here is some pics of my 59 disc brake conversion.....i am running the cpp setup with manual dual pot corvette style m/c..sorry no pics of that part http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=384895
Thanks everyone. I will stick with the stock frame, and redo the brakes for now. If I leave all 4 drums, and convert to discs up front later, what master cylinder should I go with?
Hello We have a 1958 Ford F100 and we are wanting to lower it 2". Does anyone know where we can get drop spindles for it? Or have any ideas for us? Now to show my complete ignorance, who is Sid?
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