Trying to replace the spring perches in a chrome '32 ford dropped tube axle with new adjustable ones............if possible. Working on the driver's side, axle still in the car, and the perch is disconnected both top and bottom. After soaking it with Liquid Wrench for a day I double-nutted the threads and tried to loosen it by twisting with a wrench and breaker bar. That only caused the grade 8 nuts to eventually turn. Next I tried driving it out with a sledge hammer and all that did was start to bend the threads over. Then I took a 24" long piece of 3/4" bar stock and inserted it into the perch eye with a 48" long piece of pipe added. Even with that amount of leverage I can barely turn the perch (and I mean barely. Was afraid I'd break it). I sprayed some more Liquid Wrench on it from time to time over the next few hours and tried turning it back and forth, but it isn't getting any easier. The batwing does turn by hand, but not easily, and only after the Liquid Wrench had been applied. I'm certain rust is the problem. I'm guessing heat is the answer, but that'll kill the chrome. Is more Liquid Wrench for the next coupla' months the answer? Appreciate ya.
If the perch bolt is really turning a little, and not just twisting the metal inside, then I would keep soaking with other types of oils. Don't cause it to gall by turning too far, just keep working without forcing it too much. patience may pay off I have an old solid br*** large hammer that I hold against the bottom, and wail it with a big hand sledge....but not until the perch bolt shows some sign of being able to twist.
You got more patience than me. I usually keep applying more pressure until either it turns or it breaks. (I have to replace alot of broken bolts...)
If it moves a bit, try motor oil, maybe a little ATf mixed in to get it to weep into the bore. You might want to try propane heat just to expand it slightly..let it cool, then work it some more. If you have some movement right now, it is promising. Yes, why adjustable perches? More S*** to go wrong or loosen up.
It might not work in this application, but in the past I've shot stuff with propane to freeze it, you would get the same effect as heating the axle but without the downside...just a thought
Kroil...If you can possibly drill a hole in the backside of the axle at the perch boss and soak it with Kroil it WILL come out.
An odd oil suggestion, since it has started to move: I find the 3-in-one is better than the penetrating oils for floating out rust grit once you begin to achieve movement.
Ask HAMBer "OutLaw" how many tons of pressure we put on my spring perches to get them out of the axle on his gigantic hydraulic press. His eyes were huge, and he said he'd never seen the pressure gauge in the red. The press was as big as a Cadillac standing upright on it's bumper. But it got the job done! Before I called him I beat on those perches, heated them, and even a 20-ton shop press wouldn't let em budge, so I called in the favor.
Thanks to everyone that replied, but I am going to go another route. Luckily I didn't twist the perch, only may have begun to gall it. I was able to twist it and line it up with the shackle, fore and aft............and by shortening the 4-bars it'll line the perch and shackle laterally. The only plane left is the one that the adjustable perch adjusts, and I may optimize that with a tad more camber.
ATF and kerosene mixture or that and a little heat (not enough to blue the chrome but enough to get it moving)
I have used a lot of P.B.Blaster and it has always worked for me,... another thing you might want to try, use the floor jack to put pressure on the bottom of the pin (after it has been soaking) then put your bar in the shackle hole and work it back and forth, smack the front and back of the axle with a fiber hammer (so it won't mar the chrome), and work it back and forth again........ Just a thought
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