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Cowl Steering AGAIN?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TurboRay, Oct 16, 2009.

  1. TurboRay
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 148

    TurboRay
    Member

    Before you say it.........YES, I've searched. I've read virtually every cowl-steering thread ever posted on the HAMB (but with those posted earlier than around 2005, the pix don't show up). I've read about early Mopar aluminum boxes, Schroeder (sp?) sprint/midget boxes, BMW boxes, Volvo boxes, F1 boxes, Ranger boxes and the long snout boxes from the tri-5 Chevies and F100-F350 Fords (altho, admittedly, I haven't actually seen pix of a tri-5 installation).

    BUT, I'm still in a quandry. I was trying to avoid using the various pitman-shaft-lengthening strategies by going with a long-snout F-series Ford box, as discussed by 41fastback in a 2007 post and shown below in both stock ("prybar" photo) and reversed ("tape-measure" photo) form:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    The problem is that when it's reversed, the strg shaft is BELOW the pitman shaft.......and, in order to have the pitman arm exit the cowl low enough to avoid a sharply-angled drag link or extremely-long pitman arm, it would need to be mounted comparatively-low and yield a steep strg-shaft angle almost like that of a conventional frame-mounted (reversed) Corvair et al box - which is something I'm trying to avoid.

    The main reasons I wanna go with cowl steering are: (1) A comfortable strg-wheel angle (to avoid the "bus steering" phenomenon), (2) A traditional "look", and (3) To keep the steering shaft away from my feet. And, no, I don't wanna use one of those encapsulated offset drive units.


    Soooooo.............does anyone here know of another "recirculating-ball" long-snout strg gear that can either be used stock or reversed to yield a nice cowl-strg box that'll put the strg shaft ABOVE the sector/pitman shaft, without spending the big bux for a midget/sprint-car box?? TIA.


    C'ya - RAY
     
  2. I wish i could be of more help, but that is why I went the mopar box.. I could put it up high and get a good angle and make what ever length pitman or shaft ext. I needed in the "T" that I am building,,
     

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  3. Nice work!
     
  4. TurboRay
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 148

    TurboRay
    Member

    THANX for the reply, Ron. The method you chose to extend the pitman/sector shaft is the safest one I've read about. I've seen it used with a variety of different gearboxes. I may end up doing that with a reversed Corvair box if I can't find a better alternative - but, if I do, I'll probably "hide" the large flanged coupler under the dash and mate it to a canibalized long sector shaft (splined) with an outboard support bearing where it p***es thru the cowl, similar to this: http://www.gasalleystreetrods.com/.

    However, I'd STILL prefer to find a "proper" gearbox with a long snout.

    C'ya - RAY
     
    luckylou likes this.
  5. The large flange is going on the outside it is where I am bolting (6 5/16 grade 8) to the pitman arm it will be close to the body and I may or may not hide it with a blister it looks pretty cool right now i think, I broke my camera or I would have a complete picture of the arm and bolt up but you can get the idea from this pic... I might have to pinch my kids camera and take some updated pictures
     

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  6. Sorry ,, I also looked at purchasing that same kit ,but I thought I could make a better one myself and of course using some great idea's from other HAMB guys who have done it before..... it was fun making all the parts.... and I am getting closer a little at a time
     
  7. got the idea?
     

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  8. flathead31coupe
    Joined: Mar 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,596

    flathead31coupe
    Member
    from indpls, in

    i went with setup, i reversed this unit worked well.. PIC00011.JPG

    PIC00010.JPG

    PIC00009.JPG

    PIC00008.JPG
     
  9. Thats the same ****py kit and install that was discussed here a few weeks back. :eek:

    Here is the thread
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=396899&highlight=rizzo
     
  10. thanks "Tinman" I knew some one was paying attention,,, it sure was not me read the entire post.... again many smart cookies on the hamb
     
  11. 52pickup
    Joined: Aug 11, 2004
    Posts: 833

    52pickup
    Member
    from Tucson, Az

  12. No worries, just dont want bad info to p*** along.
     
  13. TurboRay
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 148

    TurboRay
    Member

    I agree, Ron.......it does look pretty cool right now. But, PLEASE install some kinda support bearing at the end where it p***es thru the cowl. There are very high lateral forces, fore and aft, placed on a pitman arm as it tries to move the spindles. And with the added leverage of that nearly 12-inch pitman/sector-shaft extension, the forces on the end of the original pitman shaft and brgs will be astronomical. IOW, it could very easily fail or, at the least, flex enough to give you a mushy/sloppy feel to the steering. Just my 2¢.

    C'ya - RAY
     
  14. vintagehotrods
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,705

    vintagehotrods
    Member

    Gee Trent, that's the first time I ever heard you called "smart"!!! :D:D:D
     
  15. At least w/o the *** on the end:D
     
  16. Little Wing
    Joined: Nov 25, 2005
    Posts: 7,565

    Little Wing
    Member
    from Northeast

    Maybe something more light weight like this ?? You could cover it with aluminum tube if looks are an issue
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. TurboRay
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 148

    TurboRay
    Member

    I agree that Rizzo didn't do a proper install, using what was apparently only the firewall/floorboads and cowl to support the box and outboard bearing.......but I think that Gas Alley's kit looks fairly well made and safe (altho I'm not particularly enamored with the square-drive pitman arm). I like the idea that it's a short version of what's been done in previous HAMB cowl-steering threads and can be hidden under the dash.

    If I build one using the same idea, I'll be using a canibalized section of pitman shaft from an F100-F350 or tri-5 box that retains the OEM splines, as I mentioned.

    C'ya - RAY
     
  18. I agree, I did the same set up and my "extension" is only 2.5" and there is a slight bit of flex, you need the outer bearing.
     
  19. Thats one of the main reason's while I am here I like
    "constructive " critizism and the fact that you can for the most part get it the destructive stuff none of us need.while we are on the same subject I attached a few pic's of the under construction arm and extension tube.... from the seat of my pants it looks like the tube will be about 3 to 4 inches total in length to poke thru the side of the cowl. i plan to make some simple split type bushing a few inches wide to support the extension....... some guys say it is way over kill..... thoughts comments
     

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  20. jj mack
    Joined: Mar 22, 2007
    Posts: 735

    jj mack
    Member

    What car is this going in?

    Have you considered keeping the pitman arm inside the cab, and the draglink exiting the cowl thru a blister?

    This way you do not see the long pitman arm...just a small blister.

    Scooter did his this way...so does pinkee's coupe. Pinkee"s uses the stock steering arm as well.

    If you nee pics...let me know.


    JJ
     
  21. My main beef with the kit is indeed the pitman arm.
     

  22. Thanks!

    I hear you loud and clear..
     
  23. Those are the guys that have never built or driven a cowl steering set up, overkill is good, when it comes to steering and brakes.
     
  24. jj mack
    Joined: Mar 22, 2007
    Posts: 735

    jj mack
    Member

  25. TurboRay
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 148

    TurboRay
    Member

    Yeah, I've never seen anything bad, questionable or poorly done come out of Pinkee's........there stuff is always top notch!!

    Still - and it's probably just a matter of personal preference - I'd rather not have the pitman arm in the footwell. It's not that I have big feet, just that I like a lot of room to move around and "settle" on a moderate-to-lengthy road trip.

    Soooooooo.................no one knows of a long-snout strg. box that might work other than the tri-5's or F-series Fords? I suppose if there was such an animal - it would already have been "discovered" (sigh).

    C'ya - RAY
     
  26. TurboRay
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 148

    TurboRay
    Member

    Well......that would be great, but I'm not aware of any modern (recirculating-ball) strg gear whose pitman shaft terminates in straight splines (as opposed to tapered splines where the pitman arm must be retained by a big-*** nut). Additionally, where are you getting the matching-spline extension shaft?? Not trying to be a ****head - just trying to understand.

    C'ya - RAY
     
  27. oldskooltin
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 22

    oldskooltin
    Member
    from nc

    any chance a corvette steering box would work, 60's - 70's ?
     
  28. Little Wing
    Joined: Nov 25, 2005
    Posts: 7,565

    Little Wing
    Member
    from Northeast


    really I'll look in the yard I have see rods like that,,and I have seen the extension/connectors used in alot of different machines,,or you can make one..

    hell take to of those donuts you welded into the end of that tube,,weld them together and you have made one,,,Kinda like The Gertz things for rear axles ,,yeah your gonna have to do a lil looking but ,,would be lighter and work just as well,,,just an idea really


    you could also sleeve it and pin it in both directions,,doesn't have to be a splined coupler
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2009

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