Flatheads

Looking for some feedback on purchasing a complete ready to run Flathead from a very reliable builder. Location not important, but am located in Tn.

Need '49/'53 292" stroker with Edelbrock heads and 3 x 2's intake. Do not need carbs! Want some decent parts included, Ross, Isky, Scat, etc.

Need to know approximately what would be ballpark price and time to build. Have good used block and can ship with no problem.

Am only interested in feedback from any owners of similar builds that have first hand experience, not so much interested in what any vendors may qoute?

Thank you, Harry

 

I would try H&H flatheads here in california,if you want a specific build,they are great at what they do,try them on the web,but warning it isnt going to be cheap!

 

are you sure the block you have will go out to 3/8's

 

The Bishop/Tardel book, if I understand correctly, says that 3/16 is pretty much the optimal street performance bore for a 239.

 

There are a few around but H & H are the best that i know of and you better have some deep pockets too !
If you are looking for a $4000 build with your specs it ain't going to happen . Flatheads from a good builder is not cheap like many other engines and takes time because of the popularity rising up big again .
Can I ask how you cam up with those specs ? When rebuilding any engine you don't want to max bore just to have the biggest pistons . Gotta leave room for the next rebuild or you will looking for another complete engine .
Have you considered building it yourself ? Maybe a friend that has built one . Will be a hell of a lot cheaper than having someone just build you one and all you have is a block that might or might not be any good , unless you had it magged & sonic checked already . I would have the block checked first so you know if you have one to build on or not .
You can always check into the flathead club on here . Something to consider first !

RetroJim

 

Call this guy... he knows what's a happening! Bangers and V8's...

 

Harry,

I think Retro Jim said it well, if you block has been mag'd and pressure tested and you are willing to spend $1000 to ship your block and have the completed motor sent back to you plus spending $6000+ to have the motor done....................then go ahead.
I also agree, if the block bore is stock, then I wouldn't go any further than 3-5/16, so you can actually rebore it at least once more.............unless you don't really care, but good flathead blocks are getting harder and harder to find.
So, my advise would be to find a local machine shop that understands flatheads, have them to the machine work and you assemble it. Look at some of the costs;

SCAT stroker crank with Hbeam rods/pistons/pins/bearings/rings @$2000
Cam/lifters/springs/retainers/keepers/valve guides @$1000
Heads/gaskets @ $700
Timing gears @ $100
Oil Pump @ $100
New Water Pumps @ $190
Edelbrock tripower manifold @ $285

So there are some new prices and we are at $4300 and that doesn't include any maching work...............and you still have an ignition system and carbs/linkage

Again, try and find a machine shop in your local area or go over to the FordBarn site and ask JWL or others how much they would charge. I'm not knocking H&H, but the cost of transporting the block and motor back and forth to TN will almost equal the dollars you spend in having the machine work done close to you..................IMHO

 

Agreed, call AL at Go Devil Garage, Hes built all my flatmotors and bangers. His name on here is "JETMEK"

 

I would have to also say Al aka jetmek. He built the flatty for my roadster and I am very happy with it.

 

AL's the man.......Call him up!!!!

 

Joe Abbin in Albuquerque is pretty knowledgeable. Not sure whether he is building turn-keys, but might be worth a try.

 

Give R & L Engines inc a call (630-742-8812) they have a great web site too.

 

I do know there are a couple good Flathead builders on the HAMB !
Go to the Flathead group and ask . Someone might have some good USED parts to buy . Remember GOOD USED PARTS save big $$$$$.
It sounds like you want one in a hurry and you don't want that . Take your time and go to swap meets to find and buy used parts . They work as good as new ones do !

RetroJim

 

All of the prices I have seen mentioned here so far are pretty conservative.
You don't say what kind of power you expect and what you are going to use the engine for.
A turnkey 3/8 x 3/8 minus what parts you have, that makes 175 hp will go at least 8k.
A really first class 325 ci naturally aspirated engine that makes 325 hp on gas will run at least 15K.

 

Thanks for all the replies, was hoping to hear firsthand from a purchaser of a similar engine and whether the final bill equalled the original quoted numbers?

Also as to the general overall performance of the build.

Will take all the input above and make a decision. Not overly concerned about power numbers, I have a general idea where they would be, more interested in overall reliability and longevity.

I don't pay any shipping so getting the block there and the finished engine back is not a problem.

The casting I have is already .100" over and not cracked. It will make the .125" over.

Thank you, Harry

 

Thats (603) 742-8812

 

I'm doing a 276 myself. Machine work will cost about $1,600 once it is all said and done.

This is: Mag & boil. Bake and blast the block. Bore, hone, deck, install and cut all new valve seats, balance rotating assembly, check out NOS rods for spec., install rings on pistons.

I'm doing all of the other work myself. Prices: Purchase block $100. Ross pistons $365 (come with rings), Potvin 3/8ths cam ground by the late B. Jenks $175, NOS rods $150, bearings -new Michigan found on another site $25, new Weber flywheel, clutch & PP $450 (another good deal found on another site), 4" crank $100. Crank cut and magg'd $75, Heads $650, valves & valvetrain (include recond. Johnson lifters, L-Z springs, FH Jack retainer) $250. I'm leaving a shit load out.

So you can see that if you can get that motor for $4K, write that check and cross your fingers.

That is a great deal.

 

I have to assume from the replies that no one here has any firsthand dealings with these specific builds or any of the shops, this is the info I am after?

I've had some quotes as high as $11,000.00 built, dynoed and ready to run. These numbers are without the (3) carbs, the intake, the distributor, or the water pumps. They did include the modified oiling system and a hi-volume Melling pump. Ross pistons and metric moly rings.

Thank you all again, as I stated earlier here I will make some more phone calls not having the direct input from any members here.

Thank you, Harry

 

I thought my previous post was crystal clear.
The numbers I quoted were from engines I bought.
They engines were fast enough and reliable enough to
drive 1200 miles to Bonneville, run and get 3rd in class
and drive home. Then drive to work 5 days a week for a couiple years.
The shop is still in business but not taking in new work till further notice.

 

Hi Pete, maybe I read it too fast, I didn't see where it said you actually made the purchases?? But it is the type numbers that I'm looking into!

I see above here now you really bought them.

Curious, when did you do the Bonneville run!

Thank you, Harry

 

Drove it to Bonneville in 1954. Got 3rd in coupe class.
Towed same car minus top there in 1956 and won the street roadster class at 163.93.