I've got a really stuck axle here, have used a length of chain with a weight and this thing isn't budging. The other side came out after about 5 yanks and the bearing had rust on the edge so I assume the other side is rusted in there. I sprayed the only thing I had in the garage which is WD-40 on the inside of the backing plate behind the axle retaining plate and nothing. What should I try next ? I got a new set of gears I want to put in this thing.
You'll probably need to use some kind of a slide hammer style puller. I made one quick and dirty once by running open end lugs over three of the studs, butting some fine thread bolts up to them and backing the lugs halfway over each. Then I tacked them to a heavy piece of steel and welded a rod to the center, slid a heavy piece of metal with a hole over it and stuck a big nut and washer on the other end. When you've got it loose, just back the lugs the rest of the way off. Good luck.
Turn the brake drum around backwards to use it to pull with and warm the housing end up. It'll come right out.
uh I broke the slide hammer before going to the length of chain with the weight. I'm using two oposing axle studs, with the chain running through the 25lb weight, the chain extends about a foot and a half before it hits. I can't go to a heavier weight either, the 25 pounder is killing my back as it is.
Should I heat it behind the backing plate around the end ? Man more work to repaint that too, all that for a posi ....lol
Yes alittle heat would help around the bearing area, behind the backing plate where the bearing sits. Also what we did on the farm was to use our old motor oil in our oiling cans. We put it on old rusty lugs on tractor wheels and usually the next day they would turn loose. Plus if you put it on then heat it, it will asborb the oil and free it up, might smoke a bit too!
First round of heating didn't do anything other than make smoke, it was smoking in the right area though. I added more oil to the area hoping it will draw it in and cut it loose.
Most of the major parts houses here have a " Tool Loaner " program. Every one of them has a slide hammer setup . Go borrow one of them I have NEVER had a axle that would not come out ... using one.
I hear what your saying but.......I've inclosed a couple pictures of the carnage. The borrowed slide hammer broke the shaft off the part that bolts to the studs and notice the broken chain link laying on the floor, that's the second one. I'm done for the night because my back is killing me but made a call to borrow an industrial slide hammer tomorrow, heavy truck piece so they say.
Use a chain with heavier links. The one you have is small enough that the links are probably flexing enough to absorb most of the hard impact of the weight. So instead of a sharp spike of a strike, you're getting more of a rubber hammer type of impact.
Every other chain I have is like a logging chain, links so thick they won't go over the stud. Even on this chain I had to stick the end links in a vise and make them a bit rounder to fit over. I'm hitting the thing so hard it's moving the jack stands across the concrete and seems the car might fall over. If I do resort to driving it from the other side any chance of causing damage in there or to the axle ?
Ebbsspeed is right you need a real chain, as big as you can find, the chain I have weighs at least 25 lbs for 10 feet no weight needed. Be careful and good luck
You do KNOW that you have to remove all 4 axle retaining bolts don't you ??? I had one stuck in a 63 Galaxie one time that was so difficult ... I jerked the big Ford off the jack stands. But I jacked it back up ... and finally jerked the axle out after about 4 or 5 more attempts.
yes, I've got one side out with about five hits of the chain and weight, the other side I've did about 900 times it seems
Hey Phil, I had the same problem with my econoline not too long ago. After trying two different slide hammers, including an industrial one, I took an old junk steel wheel and welded two 4 foot lengths of tubing to it and then welded a piece of 3/8ths plate to the end on the tubing pieces. Then I took my trusty 8 lb sledge and smacked it good a few times. Axle popped right out!
Just a quick note to say I got the c@#k sucker out, lost some flesh along the way but it's out. I picked up that mac daddy slide hammer and after about 37 attempts still nothing, so I broke out the torches again and nothing. I called one of the club members to come over and heat while I banged. Several failed attempts later, what felt like 2,092, it finaly came out. I've never had a more stubborn axle in my life, just glad it's freaking out of there !
Could you see what was keeping it in there? Must be more than rust. Did you slide it back in to see where it was binding?
I've got an old Proto slide hammer, about 42" long. It has a 1/4" plate with 50's era Olds bolt pattern flame cut and a big matching nut to the slide hammer welded to it. For other bolt patterns, hooking up one lug stud works ok. Hasn't failed yet. Seems like a 48" piece of about 3/4" - 7/8" solid rod through the carrier and a sledge hammer would do the trick for getting axle #2 out. You're on your own with axle #1....
Honestly once it came out it looked like the other side, which I showed a picture of, rust around the edges. This side did bring the backing plate with it but once out the backing plate came right off. I'm more than likely going to put new bearings on the axles instead of the emry cloth trick just to be safe. The rear came out of a junkyard but was still under the bronco when I pulled it, I just sand blasted it, painted it and put new brakes on it.
Two parts stores later and I have two bearings, why would these only be listed by weight of the vehicle a 2700 lb and a 3300 lb. You think they would be listed as small and big or 6 cyl. vs. V-8. I dropped off the axles tonight to get the new bearings on tomorrow; so the end is near in this crazy job that I thought would be done in a half day.
Yes, the small axles use a 3/8th inch lug to retain the bearing and backing plate. The large bearing uses a 1/2 inch lug to retain the bearing and backing plate. On a early Bronco rear ... the small bearing rear ends use a 10 inch diameter brake drum and the larger one uses a 11 inch diameter brake drum. The 10 inch one is harder to source ... but the 11 inch one is the same as a F-100 pickup rear drum.
Got it back together this morning and after the test drive everything seems to be fine. The car runs much better with the 3.25s vs. the 4.11s, less spin and more exceleration is a good thing.
I once got a stuck axle out with hillbilly technolegy. I tried all the usual ways and finally just wrapped a chain around a tree that was located nicely beside the truck i need the axle out of. I added a come along between the tree chain and the axle and tightened it up till the truck, which was still on three wheels, was trying to slide sideways. I rapped on the housing right at the bearing with a BFH and it came out....really fast!
i have used some 3/8 jacking bolts between the axel and housing flange , works like a steering wheel puller but pushes instead of pulling.
An updated problem arises. I'm running a 1971 bronco rear in my car, changed pumpkins last year. The left axle was a bastard to get out to say the least. Now this same side is leaking gear oil from out between the retaining plate and the backing plate. The axle certainly didn't go in as easy as the right either, new bearings by the way. I had to rap on the axle with a BF hammer to drive it in when I reinstalled it. Now the question is how far should the bearing be inside the axle flange ? At this point I'm going to have to pull the axle, press the bearing off and straighten the retaining plate. The plate has a slight bow in it leaving an air gap between the backing plate and an escape for the grease. I did feel around the housing lip and didn't feel anything like a burr when putting the axle back in. What else could prevent the axle from going in all the way ?
The early bronco had the seal before the bearing. There should be no oil coming out between the backing plate and housing. If you used new seals and it still happen, check to make sure the axle is not bent. I took a bronco rear apart one time were the bearings outer case was split and the axles were bent. Being a bronco rear it could have seen some hard use. Also when install the axle make sure you lube the seal before installing the axle. Try to keep the axle from riding on the seal as you install it. also check and make sure the bearing retaining ring is on straight and against the bearing. Also check the axle splines for twist. that could keep the axle from going in all the way.
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