Hot Rods OCTOBER BANGER THREAD not so frightening yet.

Like I already said, Eastwood built the chassis.

 

When I got this carb I got a nice manifold for a rajo too that goes with it. That's what it was going to go on.

This is a 2" Winfield model N by the way. Winfield preferred his barrel valve carbs over the later S and SR's but had to switch to those because the others, H, V, M and N's infringed on a existing patent.

 

Never ran one although back in the 60's I bought a pair of big side drafts for $20.00 and sold them on the way home for $30.00. Going price at that time! I ran a M on my RPU. Had a straight pipe, .060 off the head and a Wico mag. I found a Auto Mechanic hand book that had a chapter on Winfield carburetors and how to adjust them. I could chirp off a little second gear sometimes. Still have that block.

 

so, a couple random questions: first is, i have been wondering what the numbers on the winfield heads mean, the ones right under the "pat.pend." on the raised part.. does anyone know what they mean, i'm guessing production numbers? the other, has anyone had any work done by Ron and BJ Miller of Shandon Ohio (Cinci), i was pointed their direction to get my 'B' block hopped up, just curious to see if anyone has any good or bad to say. thanks!..... oh vtwinsideways, good to see ya at newport again this year, expect good things next year, with possibly a lighter A

 

HAHA, i didnt mean driveshaft, i meant steering shaft (or column). I guess I was typing faster than I was thinking. I have a MAC's book, but I didnt see any clips when looking at the wiring diagram. Mine just had a big piece of (what looked like) bailing wire holding it in place.

 

i have always considered the two up two down motor to be the altimate in banger engines it not only cleaned up all its opposition but was way ahead of its time in the use of physics and calculations. This is typical of Ed Winfield and it is no wonder that he is often called the rodfather throughout his whole life from a young child right up to his death he was able to fathom out problems with motors cams and particually air flow he was a true genius and i would love to see far more on this motor and its construction i doubt that any one person can truely understand it it is totally awsum

 

I've never owned a iron winfield, just a later aluminum Super Winfield sold by Bell, but if I'm not mistaken the compression ratio is stamped into the head on that little raised part...I think.

 

The first number is compression ratio the last numbers are casting number. The head on gramps motor is 70081, red head = 7:1 CR

 

Cool, that means that the one I just picked up is a 7:1.

 

Okay, I will try to help you through this. I have a "Mac'c 2009 2010 Model "A" catalog and on page 302 which is in the index in the rear of the catalog is the alphabetical listing of "L" part way down third column you will notice it says "Light Switch". And look here, in my copy the first item under light switch is the word "Bail" and to the right of that word is a number 34 which corresponds to the page in the catalog where it shows a picture of the light switch. And Look! There is part number, B3467. and on that page are 2 drawings of the bail. I don't know if you realize of how much work I have put into this as I wear 1 pair of glasses for my computer and a different pair to read catalogs.

Crazy daddy o
In the "60"'s I traded a complete McDowell rocker arm settup,head, block, 2 C cranks, new Jahns pistons, sidedrive mag for a set of (4) recaps for my wife's car

 

Do you think you can get them back for a new set of radials?

I'd love to put an engine together around those parts !!!!!!
Minus the recaps of course.

.

 

A couple of interesting ‘bangers came up on Craigslist today: A 1915 Saxon, and a 1919 Chevy (with trans).

Either of those worth hopping up? I have no intention of doing so, but they piqued my curiousity.

-Dave

 

Being new to stock model A's and mechanical brakes, it's been a learning curve.

My cross shaft is spaced down by wood blocks and i haven't really seen any others like this. So i decide to take the blocks out and the cross shaft hits the wishbone... So im guessing the motor mounts are shot but instead of replacing them, the previous owner spaced the shaft down, seems retarded to me.
I re-install the blocks and now the brakes are binding? so i investigate, LOOK AT THIS!

This person should step away from cars cuz they fail.


The blocks



The clearance with the blocks installed



My main question is, will new motor mounts bring the motor up high enough to fix all of this?

thanks in advance

 

Wow, you dont know how much I appreciate this. Youve helped me out a lot, thanks Bill.

Rob

 

so my alum. Super Win. says.... 800 1..... 8:1 and 1(production #) do you know how many of these were made and do you suppose they had a few different runs of these heads? they surely didnt just have one run.

 

it should bring it up high enough.

upgrade to the float a motor kit- its worth it at least for the back.

 

Hey, no sweat! Anytime I can help you just name the part and I'll look it up for you. Just kidding. You will find these catalogs are great for reference.

 

Found some carnage today working on the chassis.

I picked up a spare rear for rear brake assemblys as the oringinals were missing the parking brake and backing plates were sho and one of the bones were rotted out.

The spare brake assemblys though covered in gear oil look great. I figured I would swap them today and pull any parts from the oringals for spares and junk the rest.

I found that the hubs were hand tight, axle keyways shot, and one axle tube race was hammered out and the axle moved up and down and around way too much.

Also the right hub had all the lug studs welded on.

 

Ok so I figure I'll just put the spare rear back together and swap the whole thing.

Then notice a piece of sheet metal and a hose clamp around left side axle tube on the spare rear, pull that off and find a huge hole, someone must have rode with a broken shackle.

Well I guess I will take the best of the two rears and make one. Teh spare rear has good axles, hubs, and brake assemblies and one bad axle tube. I will take the right axle tube from the original and make it the left on the spare rear. I assume the left and right axle tubes are the same, hopefully.

What is amazing the abuse these cars took and kept on going.

Time to hit the catalogs and put together a parts list.

 

Hey mate sorry about that?
I am out of town at the moment and took a few books and magazines that I havent read properly.
One of them was the HOP UP Finale Issue with the Winfield recreation - what an interesting car and story - much curosity on the crank.

 

I think they were made by Bell Auto Parts after WW2. Bell also was making Cragars and had all the "good" stuff. When I was in High School we would make an annual "pilgrimage" to Bell Auto to gawk at all of the race goodies and to be able to say, " Oh yeah, I've been there to pick up some stuff I needed!"

 

what a great thread!!!

 

Ya know, I was re reading the entire thread last night, And thought the same thing.

.

 

Well I finally need to join in one the monthly banger meetings.....

I've got the new job rolling decently and after 2 months of keeping my hands clean, I've finally decided to start my Model A project from this thread:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316083

I bought a pair of engines from a fellow Hamber in Festus, My current plan is to put the best engine in the car and get her running around while I take my time and steal parts off of engine number 2 to rebuild the original engine. I spent the day today cleaning and painting the decent engine to get it ready to drop in and I just finished taking the carb apart on the kitchen table much to the dismay of my wife. It feels good to be turning wrenches again!

 

How was the cam timing set on the 2 up-2 down motor? I assume it was set up so that when #1 was firing #2 haad the intake valve opening.. What was the firing order?

 

I hauled home a bunch of Model A parts today and stashed them in my basement, with some larger items to follow (including the rest of the engine). Is it just me, or does a Model A flywheel weigh as much or more than the transmission and bellhousing??

My serious question, though: I'm pretty sure the one part I'm not getting is a carburetor. What's a good updraft to use on the stock intake?

-Dave

Edit: Here's the "pretty" part of the find. Can anyone identify it more specifically than just the cowl off a '28 or '29 closed car?

 

The firing order is 1423 instead of the normal 1243.

 

No problem.
One of the cool things about the engine is they built a new crank for it. The original one was mis-drilled by Winfield when he was prepping the crank for pressure. Rather than chance running the possibly weakened crank, they just built another. To have such talent...

 

Also heard a rumor that when the original crank was put on the balancing machine, it almost broke it.