Painted my car with rustoleum

Ok i know its not a Hotrod or american but ive seen some guys ask questions about painting with rustoleum.
Ive done it with and old dunebuggy before and recently have been using satin green on my 47 Kaiser and it takes forever to dry.
Ive never used Japan Dryer before until this weekend.
This weekend i decided to paint my 1959 Daf 600.
I spent about 50 bucks on paint, acetone and Japan dryer.
3 quarts of royal blue thinned 50% with a cap full of Japan Dryer.
It sprayed good and dried to the touch in about 6 hours.

 

Well, this should get the rustoleum fans fired up and the non-fans fired up as well...

But, hey, it looks pretty good to me for $50!!!

How about some more detail on the Japan Drier?

 

I asked a girl at home depot if there was a hardener or something to make it dry faster.
She gave me Japan Dryer it works for oil based products.

 

Nice...Thanks fo the info. I've only ever used japan dryer on antique wood stuff.
Smokey

 

I am familiar with Cobalt drier, but not the Japan Drier. Just did a little google work though after the last post and found a ton of information (of course, most of it conflicting...) Seems there is a lot of info out there about the two and where and when to use them.

That is great that it seemed to work well in your application. Cool little car by the way.

 

here we go again. My question every time is....Why? cause its cheap! Rustoleum is a oil based paint you will never be able to put "a real" paint job unless you completely strip the rustoleum off. and on little car like that it will cost more to remove the old than to repaint it. So initially we did it cause it was cheap but in the long run it will cost 3 times as much to do it right.

 

Wow to be honest ive painted lots of cars with regular PPG paint and only a couple with rustoleum. The one fiberglass buggy i painted with rustoleum was a 5 year old paint job when i sold it and i always got complements.

Why do you consider it not "a real" paint job?
I used paint

 

Not if you stay with Rustolium. I saw a Rustolium job that had been color sanded and buffed out the other day. For a driver it looked as good as factory as a mid 60's truck should. Sure I wouldn't paint a 39 Lincon Zepher with it but for something that will get used and scratched, I would rather redo the Rustolium every few years. What would you rather look at gray primer or color? I say its a "real" paint job! Nice job I like the blue. What are the plans for that cute little thing BBC and a Roth monster?

 

I'm totally down with the Rustoleum. For the price and the lay down it can't be beat. Yeah you will have to strip the car if you want a fancy paint job on it. But for everyday run-arounds and shopping cart magnets its the tits.

 

You made your car worthless, congrats!

 

wasn't oil based paint in common use for factory auto paint for much of the 20th century? Decent water-based auto paint is a fairly recent development.

 

HAHA!!! my Dad and I argue this just about daily. I will say a hundred times if you are going to put a "REAL" paint job on a car it should always be stripped to bare metal. if its not completely torn down for a real paint job why not protect it with rustoleum you can paint over anything besides would you put real paint over old 10 20 even 50 year old paint? NO.

If you put "REAL" paint over any paint to me you didn't do a "REAL" paint job.

"REAL" paint jobs go to bare metal anyway.

Get everything on a car working and mocked up before paint then blow it all apart for "REAL" paint. In the meantime USE RUSTOLEUM. But please spare the bondo until it will be applied correctly. i've seen to many cars go to junk because of bad mud work.
So keep them protected from further damage and stop rust.

So if you have an old beater or a car that that could need some sprucing up use rustoleum. Or put "REAL" paint over the shit thats on your car now and watch your money burn. Nothing cooler than a 1,000 $ of paint on a car that needs floor work like they do on TV.
I've also seen rust holes filled with garbage then mudded over then "REAL" paint over that.

For fuck sake I'd rather look at enamel on old cars than urethane. My opinion I hope you hate it.

I don't think I have ever heard anyone complain about using truck bed coating as under coating because it would be a bitch to remove. Oh wait that stuff is to hide the bad floor repair. Lets see how good your floor work and rust prevention techniques are, paint the underside gloss white and then drive the car.
BTW-Looks good!!!

 

Painted mine last month with my black/red mix of Rustoleum. Spent $33 on on paint, hardener (Valspar from Tractor Supply) and acetone.

Will do it again on a real everyday use hotrod!

 

Looks good. I'm always amazed at the bitching.

 

Rustoleum holds-up at 129mph.

 

Looks good....The 51 poncho is getting R/O with hardener....

 

My 23-T took 4 cans and my 27-T took 7 cans. Both are garage built drivers. A little buffing and I think they look great. Now my 54 Kustom Merc needs paint, but there is no way I'd do the Rustolem paint job on it. Do what you want and be cool..

 

It's all in what YOU want the car to be.

My hotrod will get rattle-can!

I think your car looks great.
Pete

 

Interesting concept. A man picks a paint that only costs $50 to paint his car. When he's done, he's satisfied with the results. Unlike some people, I get it.

Keep on keepin' on.

 

I has its uses. On a dailly non show car. why not. for that price you can change your look every couple years. all for 50 bucks.

 

In todays economy I like the price of the Rust O paint job better than the rusty so called "Patina" look. Don't dis the man for the attempt to better a ride and keep it on the road. Fine job you did sir. Keep up the good work!!!

 

Your happy. I am happy. why cant we all be happy. O nice paint job

 

LOL i love this one.
What do you think its worth if i painted "a real paint job"?
Do you even know what it is?

 

Mr. Cool, did you use any primer on that, or just spray over the bare body?

 

nothing wrong with spraying a cheaper car with cheaper paint. i think stupid would be spending 10 grand on a paint job for that type of car.

as said, if you want to paint it proprer later, you would have to strip it any way

skull

 

I painted my daily-driver 77' F150 (shop-truck)which sits outside in the midwest weather; the rustoleum has held up just fine ( 10 years ago me and a buddie painted it with a gallon of white rusoleum $80.00 at Lowes) I undercoated the truck with bed liner,( and sprayed 1/2 way up the exterior with the bed-liner, like the 'new-plastic
chevy trucks') and it has held up great! It's not a show truck its a shop-truck that hauls engines, trannys, rear ends, and stuff for my other 'toys',...I would reccommend Rustoleum for anyone that wants good paint at a good price!
If you want a trailer-queen,..spend the big bucks on 'real-paint'...I'd rather put the money into the gas tank ( and my cooler)...

 

I think it has to be the right product, for the project. That said, there's nothing 'wrong' with Rust-oleum! The use of inexpensive paint is a personal choice. It allows a guy to put a finished paint job on his car without incurring the national debt! Rust-oleum can be repainted or painted over, but for compatability it needs to be rust-oleum, ( you may be able to use another brand of oil-based enamel, but why risk peeling issues/incompatability)? As always, before repainting you have to use a wax/grease remover, and wet-sand for adhesion. A coat or two of primer wouldn't hurt either.
Seems like these guys who bitch about Rust-oleum as a product are paint snobs! You/your car can't be cool unless you use brand 'X' paint system. Get a clue guys, it's not about what brand paint you use, or if you have/had the correct receipe when you built your hot rod. It's about building and driving your car. If it doesn't fit here there are dozens of other sites that cater to other types of cars. Go where you and your car fit the criteria of the club/organization. Drive it and be happy!

Dan Stevens
dba, Steelsmith

 

Looks damned good to me...WHY would anyone want to spend weeks doing body work and thousands of dollars to put PPG (or any other 'world class paint') on a car that's never going to be worth more than the sum of its parts.

If your car is a driver KaiserKruiser, you rock...

Would I use Rust-oleum on one of my cars...prolly not. But that's not to say I won't ever, depending on what kind of car and what its use will be.

R-