I just ***embled the brakes on my track roadster project. They are Wilwood calipers on Crager rotors mounted on 33 Ford mechanical backing plates. The instructions have a disclaimer that they should be used for off rod racing applications. Has anyone used these brakes and did you just ignore the disclaimer. deChrome
I use Wilwood brakes on the street and have used 'em like they're designed to be used (hard!). They simply will not have undergone DOT testing (if such testing is required) and most won't have the boots to help keep salt and junk from reaching the pistons.
Almost everything we use as far as aftermarket will say for off road use only or somthing like that. Lawyer talk
Yep - they need to say that for thr lawyers. But are not as good as OEM for corrosion protection, so I'd not use them on snowy, salty roads - but you said roadster, didn't you
"The leg bone is connected to the knee bone... The knee bone is connected to the thigh bone..." We used them on all our cars and they saw serious street and road track use. No worries.
My buddy uses wilwood circle track brakes on his rod. They work great (better than any stock calipers ive ever seen). He doesnt run his hot rod in the winter and we live 2000 miles from the flats so salt isnt an issue for him. The only problem I can find with them is they take time to "fine tune" them and shim the pads correctly for the street so they dont make noise.
Yep, as others have noted, just my chime in; That kind of disclamer is the result of busybody's getting into every aspect of our lives, necessary to protect the manufacturer from product liability ******** brought on by ambulance chasin' lawyers..........................
The mechanical backing plates are cutout for the calipers and mountings welded in place. The drums are cut out in the center to clear the rotors and bolted to the backing places to hide them. I'll try one more time to post pictures. deChrome
I ran Wildwood discs on my '34 Coupe for years and they worked great. Of course it was a summer only car so I never had an issue with corrosion. Those brakes stopped better than anything I've used before or since on a hotrod.
I'm not knocking aftermarket setups, but still prefer to use original drum/shoe brakes. The work good, last a long time. Spend my money on beer.
My buddy runs Wilwood on his coupe, I run GM calipers. In the following years, I drive my rod more than he does and he has had replace his disc pads more than I do. The cost is a lot more than stock GM pads. He regrets not using the GM calipers.
I'm with squirrel here WHY??? inclose them if you feel the need for disks. Looks dumb with all the holes from the stock stuff showing. How about adding some scoops ?
What's with all the weights on that wheel? Something has to be wrong with the tire/wheel combo to need that much lead, IMO you should figure out whats going on there.
no environmental seals to keep **** out of the piston-seal area. If you live where it doesn't rain, snow or there is not dust, they are a perfect solution!
A simple change in pad compound should fix that. There are street compounds available for the Wilwood (and other aftermarket) calipers. Wilwood's would be the BP-10 or BP-20; other pad suppliers have similar. The shims are put between the caliper and the mounting bracket to fine tune the centering of the caliper over the rotor.
Got Wilwood brakes on the back of my trike...........said offroad only.......stops on a dime on pavement. Works for me!