Diving Off the Deep End: My 1956 Buick Project

How do Specials and Centuries differ size wise? I found a guy parting out a 56 Special, what would swap over? Would say the breaks?

Also on another note what shield gas for welding sheet metal would you recommend? And can Co2/Argon mix be put into a bottle originally full of pure argon?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Specials and Centurys were built on the same wheelbase and share a lot of parts, however keep in mind that sometimes manufacturers would put heavier springs and bigger brakes on their station wagon models to make up for the added weight, so you'll want to cross reference that before you buy any parts, unless the Special parts car is also a wagon.

I weld with 75/25 Argon/CO2 in my MIG welder, I assume you are referring to MIG. Gas companies (at least in my area) do not refill your bottle, they exchange it for a filled one, so if you have an Argon bottle I would ask your gas company if they will exchange it for an Argon/CO2 bottle if that's what you plan to use.

A Century wagon with a stick is a really unusual (and desirable) setup. Those Nailhead stickshift setups are really desirable since a lot of restorers want to ditch the Dynaflow without having to replace the rear axle and suspension. Good luck with the project.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll stop by a welding shop this weekend and talk to them.

Anyone have any tips on my starter solenoid? I mentioned it in my last post that included the line of pictures.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

As far as oil I would run 10-40 in the summer and 5-30 in the colder months. The thicker viscosity oil will resist oil brake down in the higher temperatures and dissipate heat better. and the thinner 5-30 will allow for better oil distribution with cold start ups.


And with the solenoid, as long as it bolts to the starter housing, take a jumper box and with the negative cable attach to the starter housing. then take the possitive cable and attach it to the stock of a long screw driver and cross the 2 main posts on the solenoid. this should make the bendix gear spin, and if you touch the smaller post with a bigger post it should pop the bendix gear out.

if it doesnt do this, just buy another on? I would buy a replacement starter anyways, last thing you want is to be stuck somewhere cuz the brushes in the starter or the solenoid went bad. That starter provides a good core charge though.

and for welding, for the structural welding such as floors you dont even need gas but when you get into cosmetics like the roof etc. Then you need argon. all argon does is it helps keep the arc cool and prevents warping of the metal(to a point) like i said it "helps".

The motor looks pretty clean and sounds it too! Dont worry about the different style carb it doesn't matter, as long as it works. The linkage there is fine. all that wire is doing is holding the choke open(probably cuz its broken) I wouldnt worry about that now, get it running first then get the luxuries worked out. and you pretty much fab up your own actual gas pedal to carb linkage,(unless you have the stock set up) i recommend cable because its more "reliable" but i have mechanical linkage in my 57 so i guess this doesnt help my argument

Oh and buy brakes new. remember, functional brakes are the only type of brakes that keeps the nose of your buick from colliding into the back of some ass hole's volkswagen


-nick-

 

I am not sure about the brakes, I heard somewhere from someone, that one of the 56 buick models had a completely different system on it. ( I could be wrong) Do some research just to make sure.

Post your photos into your profile, so I can see them!

 

Most parts swap from Century and Special You may need the same model on body parts wagon in your case 4dr sedan may have same front doors and windshield. The brakes should be the same, standard brake master cylinder is the hard to find part and the alluminium reservoirs on the power brake master cylinder tend to rust at the base and leak. If I remember correctly you can use the find alluminium front drums off a 56 Buick on all four wheels of a 59 by removing the center hub on one set for the rear and the front is a bolt on. I'd bet a lot of body parts from 54 to 56 Olds wagon would fit your car. Take the round disc plate out of the pass exhaust ( heat riser ) it is rusted in the closed position and will crack the manifold by over heating it .

 

Alluminium drums off a 59 Buick.

 

progress?

 

I've been sick so I haven't done much. I did start on the wood frame for a shelter to keep the car/work under so I can be productive during Oregon's rainy season. It seriously rains here from October to March. I don't have school on friday so I plan on finishing the frame for the shelter and at least pulling the radiator and maybe the whole engine and getting the other engine ready to drop in.

Ryland

 

I got the radiator pulled today. It looks like the radiator support got bent up pretty good so that will need straightening. The front cross member (I think) has some rust holes in one side that will need to be patched. Tomorrow I will pull the engine and post some pictures.

Is it cheaper to have the radiator re-built or just to replace it?

Ryland

 

Worked on the car again for a couple hours today and yesterday. It rained the whole time and I got stung by a bee but I still got some stuff done. I've basically got the frame for the tent/garage made and started to remove the transmission from the "new" engine. I would have had it off yesterday but I dropped the transmission oil pan instead of the bell housing cover, so that was a lot of wasted time and effort. Tomorrow I'm going to finish the frame and get the car covered, then I'll remove the transmission. After that I'll see how much time I have left. I also bought some rustoleum primer and black paint to re-paint the radiator shroud.

Anyone on the radiator issue? Whats the best way to do this?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Before you turn another wrench or buy another part, do yourself a favor and get the factory '56 Buick service manual and factory body manual. These old service manuals were complete and comprehensive, with detailed specifications and procedures. Get originals, reprints, or even copies on CD Rom, but get them. Then read, reread, and read again, again and again, until you understand the material. They will teach you more about your vehicle, faster and more completely, than just about any other single source.

As to the shelter (and they are predicting a winter like last year, 16" of snow on the ground in Portland in the middle of December), forget about a tent or anything makeshift, if you don't want it coming down around your head. A post and beam carport out of 4X4s on pier blocks with a solid roof will get it done, but not much less (the voice of experience here, five miles south of Portland I had a Costco portable garage come down around my freshly painted Mustang thanks to the snow load).

The welder sounds nice, but nothing beats a basic but complete tool kit when you're starting out. Sears is great if can afford it with their free replacement on broken Craftsman tools. Harbor Freight for cheap socket sets (stay away from their ratchets to avoid literal busted knuckles). Costco usually carries a surprisingly complete tool set in a blow moulded case (70 to 100 bucks) that stores easily for those junk yard forays.

Lastly, find yourself someone experienced in mechanics close by willing to be your mentor and teach you the basics. That alone will save you countless hours, many do overs, and tons of money in this money pit of a hobby.

 

The only way to find out if the rad needs to be replaced is take it to a rad shop. They will clean it out, pressure test it and paint it for less than 100 bucks. Got mine done for $65. Or you could buy an aftermarket rad, for about 2-300 bucks. Depending of course on what you buy. And it might not be the exact dimensions of OE, but close!

 

Twofosho: Thanks for the advice, I thought about the snow, I'll beef up the frame a little more and just try to keep snow off of it. Ill post pictures of it when I get it up. It is absolutely pouring outside so it looks looks like I might not get much done today. As for a service manual I found this online: https://sites.google.com/site/1956buickproject/1956-buick-manuals/service-manual . This guy has scanned several manuals and put them online, you have to request access but he granted mine in a day or two. My neighbor isn't a mechanic by trade but he has done a lot of tinkering, he's the one that gave me an engine hoist, and he is helping me out a little.

Kimb82: Thanks, I'll take it into a shop.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Wow, you got a project ! But, it is a wagon so it is a cool project as well. keep us posted with pics.

 

I live in SE Portland and have a 56 buick special 2 door post I'm building. Just sold my extra complete 56 2 door post for 600.00 a couple weeks ago.
I know a couple of guys here local who have 56 buick parts if you need any.
PM me for info if you want.
Steve///
smcki49637@aol.com

 

depends who you bring it to. but typically having your radiator re cored is cheaper than buying a factory replacement

 

Gonna say the same thing. I have already went through that way of thinking with my 56 hardtop. Although, Scarebird makes a disc brake convesion for the front and some trick cross referrencing and inginuity can source you a lot of parts for other applications that will fit yours for less jack. Its all about research, of everything! Just because it doesnt have your car in the article, doesnt mean it cant apply to you. Always learn what you can, eventually you will be able to apply your knowledge. Good luck!

 

A little update: Today I got the frame up today, I bought a shop manual for $20 including shipping off ebay, and I got the radiator shroud stripped, primed and, painted.

Ryland

 

I just revived my shop manual, all I can say is wow. It's an original from 1956 and the only thing separating it from looking 100% new is the cover is a little yellowed. I defiantly see why everyone said I should get it. Defiantly a $20 well spent.

Ryland

 

any educational or mechanical progress?

 

I sold my old welder today so that brought in a little cash. I've also been looking at swapping the brakes to discs using Scarebird adapters, sounds like it will be the best choice in the long run with easily available and less expensive parts.

Today I started to remove the dash so I can clean it up and get it working, some of those bolts are real bitches to get at. I also pulled all the plugs from the engine and sprayed some PB blaster in all the cylinders, I made sure to replace all the plugs and wires back where they came from. Tomorrow I will finally get the transmission off based on information given to me at TeamBuick.com and the Buick Shop Manual.

It rained a lot today, it really poured all day. Even under the cover it was still pretty unpleasant to work outside. I've got to man up and get used to the rain if I ever want to drive this car.

Ryland

 

I did all of the work on my car under a carport, it definately does suck, especially in the PNW.
You just have to sack up!
Do all the work now, so you can cruise it in the summer. Take some parts off the car, and work on them inside. I'm sure your parents would like that!
Wearing multiple layers works also!!!
So what is the status on the radiator?
What about the rear brakes, suspension, etc? Have you looked into these areas?

 

SleeperStang look in your manual and memorize the firing order of your buick,where #1 cylinder is,the rotation of your distributer cw or ccw? that $20 bucks for a manual is going to return 10 fold on info. with the brakes you can possibly scrounge up brake parts to work but you can count on scarebird (mark) to sell you the stuff that works. no snake oil bullshit.

 

I love it, you got a nice looking buick with a nailhead, with some work, thats gonna be a badass car!

 

SWEET car man,whatever you do dont lose that steering wheel(unless you lose it to me!)HA HA they are worth some dough buddy ask me how I know!I am helping my brother in law with a 55 century.Buicks are classy as hell good luck.Stay with it and dont get discouraged too much(you will)but power through because when you are done with it and driving the next one will be a breeze!!!

 

I plan on rebuilding the dash inside or at least in my shop, hopefully I can find space inside cause the shop isn't insulated or heated. I could just run the forge for a bit and heat it up...

I just bought a military surplus over coat with a wool liner for $4.99 at Value Village so it helps, I also wear another 1 or two coats under it. The next thing I need to get is a good hat, I'm thinking one of those fur lined Russian looking ones will do nicely.

The radiator is sitting in the back seat, I'm going to worry about it later. I'm going to work with what I have for awhile and amass some cash so I feel better about spending it. Then I'll take it in to Mac's Radiator Shop in town ( http://www.macsradiator.com/ ).

Haven't decided on the rear brakes, I need to learn more about my options. Anyone have suggestions? The suspension I'll replace the gas shocks and hope that's enough until I get the money to go to bags.

Here's a picture of after I got the frame up:


Since then I have added more bracing, covered it and moved it back over the car.

Thanks for all the encouragement guys, it really does help.
Ryland

 

SleeperStang - You have a lot of work ahead of you. don't despair it can be done and-in a nice way. I took a basket case '41 Ford convertible from like condition to your Buick to a top 100 in the nation in 2001. Be persistent!

I hope you have all the side stainless for the Buick, I see the from spears are there. I don't have the stainless that goes over the rear wheel wells, I do have the stainless for the four doors if you need it. Let me know and will workout a low price for you.

Good luck on your project and don't give up, will be watching. As you make progress post pictures of your progress.

CRUISER

 

Hi Sleeper, I am also a newbie and joined this group because I wanted to speak with you. 1st I want to say-GOOD FIND & GOOD FOR YOU!!! I wish I still had the energy and enthusiasm to start a project like yours. I have a 56 wagon. I let the other guy do the work & bought it after it was done. I have enclosed some photos. Maybve you can use one of them as inspiration as what your car will look like one day. Keep going & DON'T QUIT!! If there are any other wagon owners out there lets hear from you. If I may ask, I am looking for some ORIGINAL rubber molding that goes around the tailgate window & door. If I could just get 4-6" if it I would know what to buy. My car didn't have any rubber in there and the inside got soaked every rainfall. If you-or anyone elso out there- would be willing to send me or sell me a piece, I would be MOST grateful. If not, GOOD LUCK anyway. I'll be watching your progress. Peace, Mark

 

I kindly suggest you concentrate on the chassis first. It's not going to be much fun if you get the engine going but can't drive the wagon.