I have 2 "BB"'s on it and Shane thinks it is a M13 grind as that was what Jay preferred for 2 port's but I can't find the specs.
Okay, the pressure is on again, I like working to stupid deadlines. I want to finish the T for the end of the month for a show down here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=374603
Congrats Jimmy- keep us up-to-date with pics! Sending you a PM tonight. I was at the local salvage yard yesterday and may have found modern replacments for the early Chevrolet rocker arms... of course I had NO TOOLS with me (still feel like and idiot), but will be back this week to verify. Will let you know if it pans out!
Jimmy B still has my chev 2 port head - so if there are more than one set of replacement rockers ...... i'd be iterested
I sure would be interested in the chevrolet rocker arm replacement you may have come across. I also have an Olds 3 port head but it doesnt have any rocker arms or shaft. Wondering what shaft might fit that head also. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike
The advice I was given was that Chevrolet rockers- 1) have a bad ratio of 1:1 2) are rather weak So the idea would be to find a 3 1/4" rocker (center to center) with a better ratio- the only tough part would be to mill off the rocker bosses and make new ones. I'll try to get some pics on to night of what I find.
I found a box of rocker arms in my storage. I believe they are Austin Healy 100 or some thing like that. At one time they were the hot item for Cragars, I think they are 1 1/2 to 1. I will measure overall CtC length and post.
I'm going to redo this as I left out some of the information in my first post. According to the Ford records/archives the nominal piston protrusion dimension was .03125 or 1/32" above the deck but with all of the tolerances in all the dimensions of the parts the protrusion could be from .02125 to .03625. The reason for the low number has .005 more is that the block was 11.500 +.005 and all other parts dimensions were equal + or -. By this time a lot of blocks have been decked to clean up the surface but you can understand why you see the pistons over the deck. I continue to be amazed at what detailed information is out there. Some information is from notes from the various shop foreman's records of changes.
FYI the AH rocker arms that I have are on 3 1/8 centers not sure how many but must be 2 sets in the box.
Excellent bores a little caked in the combustion chamber Right amount of muck I had to drill the push rod holes out to 1/2" then countersink the holes 3/8" with a 5/8" drill bit to get clearance for the push rod cups. Turns over beautifully just need my new points and I'll fire her up
I am in the process of building a pre-war lakes style 29 roadster. I am curious of the type of gearboxes most guys were using at that time. I have several model "a" boxes, nice model "b" box and a 36 box. I am wondering if most ran just the "a" box or if they did use later units like the 36 how were they adapting them. Were adapters being made and how popular would they have been. Any info appreciated.
I think most guys would've just run what was behind the engine - land speed racing isn't as demanding on transmissions as drag- or road-racing. -Dave
Man O Man "A" speed parts are hard to find!!! I have been trying to build the motor for my lakester but am having a very hard time locating parts. No one seems to stock serious race equiptment, every thing is atleast a 3 week lead time. I am glad I left enough time in the schedule!!!
Keep in mind that there wasn't a speed shop just around the corner, or a mail order catalog that they could pencil out a wish list and order parts. A lot of what we know about today that works and doesn't work come from the guys at the tracks and on the street learned from trial and error. Most every thing they did they built or pulled from a junk yard. They used Stock A boxes, they used B boxes with V-8 gear sets, and they used V-8 boxes adapted to the A block with V-8 flywheels. All worked well. Any of the boxes you list above would be period correct. Are you going to run this at the lake? If not, think more about how you will drive the car and use the trans that will provide you the driving enjoyment that you want. I see too often that someone builds a "to the letter" period correct hotrod and end up not driving it as much as they should because it's uncomfortable, or doesn't stop like they want, or worst yet that it doesn't keep up with traffic. It is your car, don't let the correction police dictate your build when it comes to safety or enjoyment. My car is for the most part made from all pre war parts. But I wanted to drive it anywhere. So I run a 5 speed but still have a closed drive line. I have pre war juice brakes, but I have dual master cylinders mounted to hanging pedals for safety. If the period police ding me for points in their personal car show, then I don't want their trophies if it means I have to worry about safety and driveability. My $0.02. Sorry for the rant. It will keep me from hitting the dog when I get home. This period correct thing really chaps my hide. .
Well, I made it to the salvage yard and here's what I found- First I apologize for the inaccurate comment about '28 Chevrlolet rocker ratio. They are NOT 1:1 (although the Olds 3 port rockers are) but measure 1 5/16" and 1 15/16" from contact centers to the center of the shaft bore. Anyway, from the pics below you can see that the Saturn OHV4 rockers are NOT 3 1/4" from center to center but are 2 7/8" from center to center- they also measure 1" and 1 7/8" from contact centers to the center of the shaft bore. These MIGHT be adaptable by milling to the lines drawn on the arm, but it doesn't look promising. My hope is that this might jog a memory or two that maybe there's something out there that would match. Thanks, Bill
Appreciate the reply. I will be running on the street and have certainly not ruled out a 5 speed type box. I guess I was mostly curious what they were using. What type of 5 speed are you using? An s-10. I will be running my original Riley two port. Not a period correct freak just really enjoy the style of the old dry lakes roadsters. Thanks.
Bill, too bad that didn't work out. Yes, '28 are 1.5:1 stock '27 and earlier are all 1:1, both 1-port & 3-ports. The early lakes guys used Nash 8 rockers but try and find them today. Jim Miller every so often post a bit about Chev 4s on AHRF scroll down to the bottom.
I'm not trying to push the 5 speed thing, I'm just saying that what ever you do don't sacrifice enjoyment for Period correctness. I would say that if you go pre war the V-8 would be the best. The Model A would be the cheapest. There is always the Mitchell syncro gear box: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000021a~Z5Z5Z586798~P1850.00~~~~S2SG1AJE2F72130714608b~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000021x For the most part a hot rod is a stress reliever, not a source of frustration. It's funny how it can be both at the same time. I think the saying goes: "Tradition is a guide and not a jailer". .
Dan, alot of stock model As are getting the 5 speed conversion these days. We have quite a few in the Bakersfield Model A club. When I get my ducks in a row I am gonna figure out a 5 speed set-up like yours retaining the torque tube. Most of the conversions here have been of the speedy bill adapter for the banjo and custum machined adapters with AA bellhousings for the 5 speeds. The other thing to note is I was told you have to weld up the stock radius rods on the bottom where the seam is from the factory because of twist in the open driveline. This is strictly banger set-ups. A V-8 I was told may require some more beef for radius rods and other suspension mods for handling. Just my .02. Remember I am just a kid in this game lol.-Weeks
Jimmy, Wouldn't you know that I bought some early Nash and Dodge disk wheels locally off of ebay a while back and when I went to pick them up, the collector's daughter told me about the 40 x 40 garage FULL of Nash parts that was picked up a week earlier! Oh well, I'll keep looking- maybe something big/diesel might have long rockers?
I found some more Winfield carb literature. here are the link: http://www.nwvs.org/Technical/2104WinfieldHV.pdf More info on Ed Winfield here: http://www.nwvs.org/Technical/2104EdWinfield.pdf .
How cool would it be to go back in time and bull shit with MR. ED WINFIELD? Thanks for the info. Daddyo
was there a difference between the model a trans. and the model b trans. ??? i think i have a 'b' trans. but i cant find any differences between the two
B box is bigger, there's synchros of sorts in there... and there's a gearbox mount on the back. Stress relief. Standard A box... and 'the quote' all in one....
i have a 5 speed gearbox to the model a engine. the came from a toyota celica the are strong andt good but to long for coupe's & roadsters [shifter]. the bellhousing are home made. drive's perfect on long-distant.
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