This might be old news for all you veterans out there. I ran across this new bellhousing made by Macs? while perusing the "Bay", that can be used to adapt a modern 3,4,5 speed trans. Anyone have any more info, I looked at Macs site and didnt see it.
Use a B bellhousing and the b box will take all the late gears need a 39 up shifter assembly with it using that setup in my 28 RPU
Jimmy b can't wait to hear how the chevy runs. Seeing yours makes me wish I'd kept mine with the 3 port head AND Nash rockers. damn. Here's another rare piece for you to drool over. John Gerber (later of Gerber rod fame) ran what was probably the most successful mid west dirt racer in the 20's and 30's and he ran a chevy against all the Fords, Dodges, offys, milers and so on. First with a chevy head and then with the Olds head with Nash rockers. In 1928 He bought the patterns from Jack Gallivan for a improved chevy/olds head and cast 4 of them up with larger valves and other improvements. Jack Gallivan by the way built what is considered to them the finest head for the T, a dual over head set up. In 1929 Gerber designed his own over head cam head for the chevy 4, and later still, to compete with the larger cubic inch motors, cast his own larger chevy based block. The guy was amazing and his auto bio is a great read for anyone interested in the origins of racing a Chevy four, and dirt racing in general. After all this is where all the chevy speed technology came from for Rufi, Giovanine, Schenck, Steele and a few others a decade later. His book is also peppered with the deaths of his fellow racers, roughly 100 of them from 1924 til the late 30's.
flyin-t, I just got a copy of his autobiography... gonna make for some great reading during the Thanksgiving break!... Man, I wish I could find some Nash rockers
When I used to go to car shows people were always telling me what I did wrong and that I should have used this or that part. Problem was they were just spectators, the vast majority had no hot rod just a large library of Street Rodder magazine. I can't recall the number of people that felt I should have used a SBC or at least a Pinto. I have a friend that built a 29 roadster with an electric motor and people used to say it was such a waste of a good car. He has 2 other 29 roadsters one with a hot flat head V8 and one with an injected early dodge Hemi. He really doesn't give shit about what other people think he just builds the cars the way he wants. I tried to build a car that I had wanted to build way back. And I did! While I'm also ranting I want to say something about carburetors. When I was in high school you couldn't give an 81 away! No one wanted them! Period correct was a 97 which gave a higher top end. I have no problem with some one wanting to be period correct. It is their car and their money. Well, try this out. I put my 29 RPU together and I can't drive it. I have a problem with my left ankle and cannot work the clutch! It is period correct though! (Actually it has a 150 Ford pick up 4 speed, 56 steering, and 33 brakes. And O yea it has a Kiwi quickchange) If some one asks a question as to what would be period correct I tell them if I know the answer but I don't care if they use the transmission or any part of a "Maytag Messseschmitt" or " Whizzer motor bike"
The Mac's pieces are nice. Long story short. I ordered one that was in-country, turned out to be for a 4-speed instead of the t-5. Not Graeme's fault. I would go for it if he's got one on the shelf. I talked to him a couple of times back on '05. That one looks undrilled, you just need to know the depth to make it all work. It would look great smoothed out and polished up.
My 1939 Crocker (motorcycle) has two Tuthill oil pumps, it is dry sump , one for scavenge and one for pressure......they are gear pumps and are still available from the manufacturer. http://www.tuthill.com/ Tuthill has been around since 1927, started out selling aftermarket oil pumps, for both street/race and industry so will fit well within your time frame . They sell a basic version of the lubrication pump which can be adapted to a housing and/or shaft..
Hopefully the points will arrive tomorrow. I got some spark at the plugs but the old points wobble and move too much and after a few revolutions the points gap needs resetting so I'm feeling confident see'll run straight up with new points. I'm like a kid on Christmas Eve Hopefully mine inspires you to find another 3-port Do you know exactly what model & year Nash? I've heard '29 '35 & '38 are they all the same? I'm going to have to find a copy of that Book. Speaking of Gallivan DOHC there is one down here, it is on an old 30s lakes Modified super cool engine and car. There was a guy that adapted a Wills Saint Claire SOHC to a 3-port that was a wild looking beast. Doug Shaw I think his name was, his car was featured in HRM in '53 it had the standard OHV head in the feature. Cheers Jimmy
Man I feel like I have hit a wall building my car- so much other crap going on. This thread is what keeps me motivated to finish it!
Having never built an A motor, I really can not comment on one. But for a T, the comment up load/unload/load with the loud pedal is very true: the cranks winds up like a spring and snaps.
Ive been doing as much research as I can on heads and intakes for the past couple weeks and have a couple questions. Im sorry if its been covered before (I'm sure it has), but its a little difficult to find as there are tons of banger threads on here and the search feature and I have constant arguments. I just purchased a 29 roadster with what seems to be a VERY recently rebuilt banger. It runs absolutely beautiful. I am new to the flathead four but build modern motorcycle race motors at work and have built a few sbc's so excuse any neophyte questions I may ask. My plan is to run quick and easy to install/easy to find gofast goodies that do not require any real effort to install and that does not require removing the engine from the car as I want to enjoy the car and not have it undriveable while I find another motor to spend some real quality time with. Im looking at maybe a winfield head (or something equivalent), somewhere in the 7:1-8:1 compression ratio and a dual carb manifold (are burns mani's still available new or do I have to find an old one?), dual 81's, and the one area I am stuck on is a camshaft, I do not know where to go on that one. In a camshaft I want something pretty nasty (in the drop in cam variety) but nothing wild enough were the head or block needs clearance work. Any suggestions?
Crazydaddyo sorry for the slow reply. The super Winfield I have is chambered just like the new repops. Or at least it's close to that. It's not a crows foot. I have a pick of new repop and the super I am currently running sitting side by side. I will post a pic in a few days when I get back in town. The good, bad, good news for me this. Good news is that I got the slop down to about 2 1/2 to 3 degrees. It's purring quite well again. The change exhaust manifold back to stock model a with straight side pipe. Loving it. Put about 350 miles on it in last couple days bad news: yesterday after parking it at my parents my dad walks over and while looking at the engine says, "
Says, "is your bock cracked?". And well turns out it is. Cracked along bottom of water jacket above number one cylinder. I'll post picks in a couple days. Bummer. That's what o get for bragging about how sweet it was running. Good news: it should be easy fix AND it's put me in gear toward building a new motor! Hopefully I can get the new one done before pamona show in June of 2010. I want to drive it from AR to Callie on banger power!
The first think you should find out is what your bearings are, either babbit or inserts. You might not want to go with that high of a compression ratio with babbit bearings. You will have a very hard time finding a Winfield (repop) head. From what I heard the company that makes them is having their molds reworked and that new heads wont be avaiable for quite some time. Try looking at a Thomas head they are about 6.8:1. As for the cam there are a few companys out there with customs ground cams (H&H). Just keep in mind there is only so much lift you can get out of a unmodified block. I have heard its about .330" - .345". The reason behind this limit is the cam bore wont accept a huge lift cam. Mike
Hey has anyone picked up the lastes issue of Hot rod? Did you see that sweet billet head on Eric Nelson's fuel modified roadster..? Man I am going to have to do alittle research on head designs now. Mike
So does that mean morons can be cool too?!!! Can anyone post pics of 5 journal cranks and blocks. My friend would like to get idea of what's out there (old days and now days). A and B motors. Well how 'bout this. Just what ever you've got!
I was just being a smart ass. You didn't finish your thought and it reminded me of the old joke. "You know how to keep a moron in suspense?.........I'll tell you tomorrow." Insert drum rim shot and cymbal crash here .
Engine update.... cyl. #1 135# Comp. #2 30 ( opps ) #3 130 #4 125 I didnt take the head off yet. It still runs now and its nice not to have too push it in and out when its in the way.
The Jalopy Journal
