Is there a Buick Nailhead Alternator bracket for low-mount?

Does anyone know if there is a aftermarket "Low-Mount" alternator bracket that is designed for the Buick 401 Nailhead?

If so, Please let me know!
Thanks.

 

Glenn, there is a guy on the Nailhead group that has a real nice set up. Not sure if they are available or not. I'll try and find the picture I have.

 

Thanks Steve.

 

Yeah let us know...

 

Bttt

 

Hmmmm...anyone?

 

Not trying to be a smart ass but why don't you do it the old school way and make one? It's not rocket science. Even if you don't have the metal cutting tools, you can make up card board patterns for your local welding shop to copy. Allthread rod with a stack of washers to get the belt aligned. Measure the washers and get a spacer cut. Replace the rod with the correct length bolt. Take some pictures and show us how you did it.

PS I doubt that any one makes the bracket you want for a Buick. Not that big a demand.

 

Not sure how some of the later Nailheads had their generators mounted, but the early ones used a double ended head bolt.
One end for clamping the head down, the other with 3/8" studs sticking out.
The studs accepted the generator bracket.
Two bolts went into the lower and most forward holes on the left side I think it was, the bracket was held down by nuts on the aforementioned studs and the generator bolted onto the turned up brackets 90 degree ends.

These same Nailhead studs make a nice generator mount for the early Olds Rocket motors.
All that was required there was to elongate one hole and drill another so as to space the generator forward a bit so as to align the V-Belt pulleys properly.

It's a little difficult to see in this old pic, but you can see the generator sitting fairly low and out of the way on this triple 2 bbl setup on my Olds engined 50 Ford coupe.

If you found or have such a Nailhead gen mount, it would be easy to shorten the generator bracket to fit an alternator.
Lotsa ways to get the correct V-Belt alignment as well.
Use of aluminum - or steel - spacers could bring it out where you want.

First pic of the Olds engine.

 

Here's an example of making your own alternator bracket.
(Pinto alternator fwiw, small and of sufficient capacity for a roadster.)

Note the aluminum 1" OD spacers used.
That's what I was talking about above, these could be used out front to space the alternator where needed on the adaption of the original early Nailhead gen mount.

There isn't much room between hood side and engine with this 455 Buick into 31 A engine compt so that's why the alternator sits high.

Revamping the mount just a bit would have the alternator hanging down low if you have the room.

This is a three point mount that picks up the 3/8-16 tapped holes in the 455's head.

Tommy has a good point.
Somewhere along the line you're gonna have to make some of this stuff.
It ain't hard you just gotta get in there and do it.

Just about anyone should be able to duplicate this all-aluminum alt mount using a minimum of tools.
The most sophisticated tool required would be a drill press.

The bent 3/8" stainless rod may look like it wouldn't do the job, but it does.
Proven by 41,000+ miles on my 32 using the very same alt mount.

 

If you don't have three accessory holes tapped in the head on your engine, you probably have two.

Here's an alternative two bolt mount that is very sturdy and easier to make than the three point mount pictured above. (The three point mount has 1/4" aluminum plate fwiw.)

All that's required there - besides the 1" OD spacers - is some 1/4" by 1" 6061 T6 aluminum.

If it came down to it and you only have one accessory hole in the head you can make a one bolt mount using 1" OD spacers and run one brace to the front of the long bolt that carries the alternator.
The adjuster arm doubles as the 2nd brace.


Hot rods are like sex.
A little imagination can take you a long way....

 

Long as I'm at it, here's a pic of a simple to make V-Belt retainer.
This one used on the 32's 462" engine to help keep the single V-Belt on at higher rpms.

Made from a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate, drilled on center to fit the alternator pulley stud and bolted on with the alternator nut and some blue Loctite.

Granted, I have access to a lathe, but the plate can be cut out of a larger piece, sawn close to circular, trimmed to size with a disc sander, drilled on center and if desired, make a mandrel (headless bolt, nut & washers) bolt the plate to it, stick the whole shootin match in a drill press chuck and hit it with a file while it's spinning along.
Not too much pressure, doesn't take long to make a perfect circle this way.
Break the sharp cornered edges with the file and sand or buff to the finish you like.
I find that 3M's abrasive cloth - middle grade - makes a nice brushed finish.

 

Tommy, Please understand, I have fabricated alternator brackets, A/C brackets, headers, I build all of my own designed chassis, so it's not that I cannot, I was just asking IF anyone knew of an EXSISTING setup that may be available. As I have found over these past 30 years, it's getting more and more difficult to make items that you can purchase in the aftermarket for the same price. I always end up building most items because of the "look" or fit that I need.
Back to the bench......

 

Have you tried talking to suedesled hes a nailhead guy. His web site web page

 

[ QUOTE ]
Tommy, Please understand, I have fabricated alternator brackets, A/C brackets, headers, I build all of my own designed chassis, so it's not that I cannot, I was just asking IF anyone knew of an EXSISTING setup that may be available. As I have found over these past 30 years, it's getting more and more difficult to make items that you can purchase in the aftermarket for the same price. I always end up building most items because of the "look" or fit that I need.
Back to the bench......


[/ QUOTE ]

Like I said I wasn't trying to be a smart ass. I hope you didn't take it that way.

 

Alan Grove-possibly.........I suspect there IS NONE as it appears the lower hose is on the side shown in C-9's pics.
It would probably end up with the alternator being too far outboard in an effort to have the belt clear that hose....also there is the oil filter issue to consider.

 

GUYS.......This is going on a Nailhead. C9's example is just that...an example. The front of the Nailhead is layed out just a bit different.

 

I have a 322 -aren't the first two nailhead's lower hose on the pass side?

 

Tommy....No Worries friend, none taken.

This is a Nailhead, and there are no bolt embossments in the fron of the block or cylinder heads, so it will be a major task, of which maybe after I do successfully design and fabricate...someone else out there may be of need of one too !
Glenn

 

[ QUOTE ]
I have a 322 -aren't the first two nailhead's lower hose on the pass side?

[/ QUOTE ]
Drivers side for the lower hose on Nailheads.

 

Here's a pic showing the BBB (The Buick board guys name for the late Big Block Buick) when it went into the 31's 32 frame.
The hose goes out on the right side darned near horizontal.
Makes for a tight fit to the lower right side bib on the radiator as well as a tough squeak through the alt mount.

The hose fitment problem originally taken care of with two 90 degree formed hoses joined by a piece of 1 1/2" x .120 wall tubing.
The two-piece hose worked fine for a long while and it served as a good pattern to find a one piece formed hose that fit after a small bit of trimming.

 

[ QUOTE ]
This is a Nailhead, and there are no bolt embossments in the fron of the block or cylinder heads,

[/ QUOTE ]

Take a look at the 390 and 460 Fords.
They have the alternator hung on a single bolt that comes out of either the head or water pump.
There's a short 1" OD bushing to space it out and it's braced with both the alternator adjustment arm up top and another bracket to the front of the single bolt.
Bolt is a 3/8" if I remember right.
Makes for a sufficiently sturdy mount.

You can use stacked washers to get the initial length for the bushing, but don't run that way.
A friend of mine did and his pickup with 460 kept breaking the long bolt cuz the washers allowed the weight to shift where a bushing wouldn't.

 

On my 1959 Buick I used a Alternator bracket I used an Alternator bracket from a 1964 Buick Riviera. The only problem on a 1959 Buick is, That the upper control arm is in the Way. But this was an easy fix on the Bracket

 

Found this from 2010 thread 'Gee_Rydes",
Looks real good

 

Didn't you guys hear a squeak when you opened an 11 year old thread ????????

 

Reply post #24 Rick G.
Yep.
Maybe some more designs in last 11 years?
thnx for btt .

 

hey Bam.inc.....i have a 1964 401 and the picture that you dug up is exactly what i am going for from a look standpoint particularly the pulley set up. can you tell me who posted this or who to contact is? thanks.

 

Gee!. 8^)

https://www.facebook.com/1965-Buick...os/pb.149461030162.-2207520000../425784440162

 

thank you very much and i have reached out to Dave.

 

Here's a photo by HAMB member ekimneirbo taken at Louisville 2021.

 

I successfully designed and built to alternator bracket, and finished the car in 2008. If anyone wants to see pictures of the bracket, I'll dig up my picture file.