I wanted to say thanks to the group here for all the advice and input I get from these banger threads. Although I have had my share of old cars and trucks, I really didnt know much about Model As when I picked up my '29 coupe. I came here and asked for some advice and studied what others had done with their Model As. Based on the advice of a few smart folks here, I didnt jump into anything too quick or get too crazy (meaning the old '52 Hemi in my garage didn't somehow end up in it). I learned that restraint was probably the best theme for my coupe. <O</O My wife and I took the 29 to the GoodGuys Southwest Nationals up in Scottsdale this past Fri-Sun. It was a huge show this year with 2500 cars registered. On Saturday, while popping back by the car for a water, I noticed a sheet of paper on the seat telling us we were picked for the Period Perfect award on Sunday. We were quite surprised and real excited. Were not in the hobby for trophies, and parked all day next to a lot of real expensive cars in the winners circle was different. But lots of folks really seemed to like the car, leaks and all... mostly because of what I hadn't done to it. <O</O The one negative is that my wife tells me now that GoodGuys says its perfect you don't need any more money for it" And she wants me working on her '38 Dodge coupe now too <O></O>
Somebody say O-Rings.... With this tool you cut a .030 groove and tap in a .040 copper wire. I previously used it it on OT turbo'd engines. It does bores from 3.735 to 4.50 I believe they are rentable at full price and refunded less 50 bucks IIRC. Included the part # for ya'll.
Congratulations !!!!!!!!!!! Well deserved. Sounds like you have found the charm of the Model A banger. Before long you will want another. . .
It's like a ridge reamer. But instead of the cutter cutting against the inside of the bore, it cuts a groove in the deck of the block. The 4 blocks with the pins sticking out center the tool in the bore of the cylinder. the pins rest on the deck to keep it square. The cutter that makes the groove is that parting tool looking thing on the side. .
I have also been told what Gemsa thought about cranks. That a welded counter weighted B crank was better than the C crank. I have 2 or 3 C's and have never used them for that reason. More than likely dumb on my part.--TV
I have examples of the B, BB, C cranks that I plan to do some testing with. Yes I too have always referred to the later cranks as C cranks. It is just easier to call them that. Back to my question: Is or has anyone run the BB crank in a hopped up engine? Chris, does your B engine have one in it? How does it compare to other cranks? Is vibration noticeably less? bearing life better? How heavy of a flywheel were you running? .
Hi there, I thought I would let you know that my T roadster is for sale. Here is the HAMB link of the details http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=374603 Thanks Greg Stokes greg@nzhotrodmag.co.nz
Finally got to my storage unit and was able to snap a few pics of the roadster I picked up from novatattoo. I can't wait to start tearing into her, but I do have to let the checking account recover a bit.
last year I had a short video from a guy named Pete, who posts on another forum, hot lapping in his "sprint car" I think it was a roadster. As I remember it was a flathead. He had an 8 port block with exotic ignition and carburation All very high tech. He was running a "BB" crank and according to what he wrote he was hitting 6500 on the straights. His dampener was almost as heavy as his flywheel. I think it weighed about 18 lbs I have the specs on the engine some where
Because it is eaiser to use the cylinder bore to pilot on. Assuming we are talking OHV motor here. Oftem you would then cut a "Recever groove" in the head to catch the upset copper pusshed up by the wire. I never did. Didn't think it was a good idea. But others do.
My brother, who is a CNC machinist for Pankl aerospace, is working on a program to o-ring the block of a flathead. Don't hold your breathe but we're working on it.
ZONIE...good luck on your hill climb, man just make believe your a big ass goat on steroids. i mean get midevel on their asses, and don't come back without the gold! realy DON'T come back! HA! you luckey dawg...POP.
I recently sold my 31 Tudor and bought a wife friendly O/T car to be used as a mutual interest hobby. After the sale I am left with a Diamond "B" block w/ counterbalanced crankshaft. The crank moves in the rod and main journals but not far because the valves are frozen. I have the oil pan, oil pump, and flywheel. What is the going rate for these? I want to be fair to me and any purspective buyer. Thanks, Tad 309-634-1350
From 50$ to 700$ depending on if it has cracks and how much misc parts you throw in. I bought a running Diamond A engine for 80$ about 2 months ago. Only thing wrong was they broke the distributor off trying to remove it from the head. Mine was complete minus a good distributor and carb. I did not hose the guy either he said his wife wanted it outta the driveway. I gave him a good carb also in trade to put on his 1929 stock 2-door, so thats about 150$-200$ right there also for him. I did not even realize it was a diamond until I went to time it at home. Thing has a 1928 dipstick, 30-31 timing needle, and the good timing cover which was also an early item. Should have looked harder because I was thinking its strange to have all these mismatched parts. I also acknowledged all the stamps and castings but kinda really didn't care. I was busy benchracing though also with the gentelman about his 2-door. I was fortunate that he wanted to just help a youngen out also. Total for the engine was about I would say 350$ or so after gas and if you figure in the carb+cash. The main thing is IT RUNS with no Knocks. Hope this has helped.-Weeks
Two posts in the last couple days caught my eye. Bill posted- According to this information it requires a press capable of in excess of 20,000 lbs. I don't have the information in front of me so I will just give a "ball park " figure for the press. Now I'm not doubting for one minute that Ford pressed the C/weights on with considerable force. What is interesting to me is that I have removed, and reinstalled 4 sets over the years, and after the pins were drilled out, they tapped off with a small lead or dead blow hammer. If too much interference is given in a press or shrink fit, one of the pieces stretches or compresses beyond the elastic limit of the material, and the fit is less than if the correct amount of interference was used. This plus 25 -55 years of running must have defeated the press. I have (in the long ago past) knocked off the weights from a BB shaft and installed them on an A crank- but it's too long ago to remember if it made the engine any smoother. The other was the note about cutting a wire groove in a flathead block. I have a Gorton 2-3 pantograph, the largest that they made as far as I know, and while you might cut one of the small English Ford flatheads, or an Austin Seven block on it, Trying to do an A or B block wouldn't be possible. Too large. Herb Kephart
Are any of you guys running wide 5 rims with your stock mech drums. I have a real nice set sitting around and would love to run them on my banger jalopy. I see speedway has adaptors for 4 1/2" and 5" lug patterns but nothing for our 5 1/2. Before I stop by the machine shop, I'd figure i'd ask.
Regarding pressing on and off counter weights maybe I am missing something here or just cant visualize the process. Are the counter weights only on the ends? If not do you press it on the end then off, walk it over the crank throws to the middle positions? Thanks TBone
I am new to all of this and was wondering what is a diamond block and how do you know if the engine you have is one? I know that is a stupid question but like your story I recently bought an engine and it has a 1928 serial number but I can tell that that is not the original number (no stars). Thanks
Here is were the diamond is. This block does not have one. Read from post # 260 - # 272 of this months tread. It pretty much explains the Diamond block.
If you want to know read what we have been digressing about off and on all this month last month and the month before that etc... on the banger threads. In the last picture I posted look for the diamond there. If its not there you have a regular "A" engine or "B" engine. If your still in doubt post a picture please for more imput.-Weeks Edit: Dammit Dan you beat me to it . Thanks bud.-Weeks
Props bud. I really dig your car more everytime I see it in a sea of pastel colors and muscle cars . Good shot once again representing the ways/cars of the past.-Weeks
quick question... can the crank be crossdrilled for pressure to the rods and not be reground? Have B motor and would like to get pressure to rods but don't want to pour new babbit. thanks andy g
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