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Need help with a problem……!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gunk, Nov 23, 2009.

  1. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    I just put in a rebuilt Chevy 327 with fuelie heads in my 64' Chevy C-10. The carb is an old four barrel holly I had, dist is not an HEI,******* headers. The truck ran fine for a day or two; I was running with open header for the first couple days, until I put Cherry bombs on. Had to set timing a little advance 34 degrees. The guy I bought the motor from didn't remember what kind of cam, but it’s lumpy. Problem: after the truck warms up a bit, 15-20mins, starts to hesitate and cut out. Shut it down for a moment or two then start back up it will drive ok then act up again. Thought maybe a ground, but found nothing. Fuel? Vapor lock? Timing? Where do I start?

    Thanks for the help!

    Oh the trans is a TH 350
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2009
  2. hotrod-Linkin
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 3,382

    hotrod-Linkin
    Member

    check to see if their is the antiheat gel between the module and distributor plate. my best guess. if it's missing it will not run for long. also on an hei,you need a heavier hotwire to the dist. if you use the stock wire,it will heat up the module.
     
  3. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    Sorry, its not an HEI.
     
  4. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,922

    kisam
    Member

    I would guess fuel. I am****uming it's a stock gas tank. I would start by looking in your float bowl for trash and I would install a filter between your pump and carb.
     
  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,881

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It could be that the coil is breaking down when it gets hot.

    One more thing to check is make sure that the holder for the condenser is tight and that the condenser is tight in the holder.

    Also is the choke working right in that is it opening up right when the engine warms up? It might be sticking especially if the carb sat for a while without running.

    Check the little things as it is probably something like that causing the problem.

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  6. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    Ok, not the coil, I put a new coil on and it did the same thing. Condenser tight, no choke on the carb, dont ask, next will be fuel filter and line, then carb itself. Thanks for the tips.
     
  7. mikeco
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 393

    mikeco
    Member
    from virginia

    Had the same problem in a 34. Sending unit had a sock type filter on it. Car ran fine till the junk in the tank plugged the sock then car would run rough & die. Let it sit & the junk would fall back in the tank filter cleared & car would run fine till it plugged up again.

    This was all caused by 1 tank of bad gas that had trash in it!
     
  8. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    Ok, rebuilt the carb, new fuel pump, there is no in line filter, I put a new filter from the pump to the carb. It runs good until the temp gets to about 190, then hesitates and dies. Once it cools it will fire up agian. Vapor lock? Starter getting hot? What next!:mad:
     
  9. chevyshack
    Joined: Dec 28, 2008
    Posts: 950

    chevyshack
    Member

    how close did you run your fuel line to the exhaust? Could be to close and causing vapor lock there. Could also be a timing issue.
     
  10. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Hmmmmmm......What distributor are you running .....I ve got another crazy idea Voltage regulator .Sounds like a drain on your battery ,I wish you luck......
     
  11. Bullrack
    Joined: Aug 14, 2008
    Posts: 336

    Bullrack
    Member
    from Louisiana

    It's the little things like this that get you down. I would check into the ignition a little more. Sounds like it could be a timing problem. What distributor? I'm guessing one with vac. advance? Steven.
     
  12. LowKat
    Joined: Nov 29, 2005
    Posts: 10,015

    LowKat
    Member

    do you have a ballast resistor?
    [​IMG]



    next time the engine cuts out, feel the coil,
    it should be uncomfortably warm but not too hot to touch
     
  13. ranchwagun
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 78

    ranchwagun
    Member

    I would pull the line off the fuel pump that goes to the tank and run a line into a clean jug of gas. Run it that way if it runs the same you have eliminated the fuel tank and pickup as a suspect. I have fought with***** in the tank many times.
     
  14. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    Thanks guys! What is a ballast resistor? The distributor is not an HEI It has a vac. advance. New coil. I will double check the condenser. the fuel line from the pump to the carb is resting on the water pump. The carb is a Holly with two fuel ports, the line going to the carb is on the hose from the heater core. I will try the trick with the clean gas can.

    Again thanks for the tips....this makes me nuts!
     
  15. fearnoevo
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 218

    fearnoevo
    Member
    from Iowa

    You know what drives me nuts?

    A little steering wheel on the end of me*****.

    When we run points, ignition problems are always the condensor or system voltage. But it never hurts to clean and re-set the points either
     
  16. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    ......a miniscule crack in a head or block that opens up only when the motor gets warm, will do that. If all else fails, put in some water glass. Might do the trick.
     
  17. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,562

    40StudeDude
    Member

    Porcelain object with two wires attached...look at lowkats pic above...that's one...and one wire is hooked to the coil...a resistor can get hot and crack...if broken it can cause the engine to run like you say yours is...


    Your fuel line is attached to the heater hose...??? If it's on the warm side of the heater connection, then your fuel is getting warm since the water going to the heater is heating up at 190 degrees, that'll cause vapor lock...simply move it...

    R-
     
  18. american opel
    Joined: Dec 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,222

    american opel
    Member
    from ohio

    i would say vaperlock or check to make sure the gas tank is vented.
     
  19. MarkzRodz
    Joined: Sep 12, 2009
    Posts: 533

    MarkzRodz
    BANNED

    Post some pictures. Ohh an HEI can and does have a vacuum advance.
     
  20. I'm thinking opel^ nailed it.
    Loosen the gas cap and try it.
     
  21. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    Shit the bed...I hope its not a cracked head or block. The motor is a good rebuild. I will look into the condenser running clean gas from a jug and moving the fuel lines. How do I post pics with this thread?
     
  22. carmanspd
    Joined: Jul 26, 2008
    Posts: 28

    carmanspd
    Member
    from Spokane

    I would bet***** in the tank. Been this same route with my own Chevy truck. Clean tank and new fuel pickup cured problem.
     
  23. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    See pics of the fuel line
     

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  24. american opel
    Joined: Dec 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,222

    american opel
    Member
    from ohio

    fuel line looks fine.i would put the fuelfilter inline below the car and hard line from pump though.just my opp.have you checked your fueltank yet?
     
  25. Doug B
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 478

    Doug B
    Member

    How often will he need to do this...:D Sorry...coudn't resist
     
  26. american opel
    Joined: Dec 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,222

    american opel
    Member
    from ohio

    all i know is i do atleast twice a day!!lol
     
  27. gunk
    Joined: May 17, 2008
    Posts: 248

    gunk
    Member
    from phoenix

    Got the fuel line away from the heat, put a spacer between manifold and carb. Check the points and condenser all good there. Still doing the same. Next put in new fuel line from the tank to the pump. Am I missing anything? I’m so agitated.<O:p</O:p
     
  28. mikeco
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 393

    mikeco
    Member
    from virginia

    Did you try running gas from somewhere other then the tank as was suggested? I say pull your sending unit & see if it has a filter on it in the tank.A new line from the tank to the pump won't do any good if the problem is in the tank.
     
  29. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    How about the screens in the carb Under the fittings that hold the dual feed......Forget that one ..Is this at idle or are you driving ..I've think i've gotten to the bottom of your problem,Do you have plastic floats in your holley,Change to Brass I bet you are flooding out ,I've also had problems with the rear metering valve .I would be driving and just stahl After a few minutes It would fire up again and a few seconds later would stall .After that I install brass floats in every carb ...I bet you that is your problem .Next time you get it running After it stalls read your plugs.Sounds like your problem.......
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2009
  30. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Giving the guy a bump
     

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