So as the title says, I am looking for some inspiration for a new project and need some pictures of a fenderless Model A's sedans on stock rails, channelled or not, prefer then not since I wont be doing that right now. Nothing too slammed and in the weeds, not the look that I am going for. Maybe a little Z'ed in the back for the proper stance. Thanks all.
Try this thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322162 It is 14 pages of Model A roadsters on A frames.
I have a 29 i'm just starting on, you sound like me... Every time i look, 32 rails, which is why i'm using my stock frame boxed and a 4-6" z in rear, i want to keep the rumble seat as well, of course no fenders... i hate going mainstream, just me, good luck
Thanks, I am trying to keep it low cost and trying to do more of my own fab work. As for mainstream, don't even get me started on my engine choice.
here's my project, I ran a spring behind axle front and rear with t springs in rear. Still need to channel body once top is welded back together.
One of my favorites, at the top of the page. Saw it in SRM. To me the proportions look just right.. I'm guessing maybe a 3 to 4 inch chop and 3 to 4 inch channel. Not sure....but I like it.
Here is mine. I took them off to do some body work. I'm going to run without for awhile. Still need to lower the ass end some.
What is the best way to lower the rear SOME and maintain a rear seat? I have an original rear seat, a stock rear floor pan etc to work with (and I'm not afraid to cut it!). How much to I expect to loose by a reverse eye spring? What about a spring behind set up? Can I modify the spring by moving leaves around and not bottom out with people in the back? Most write ups on this are a coupe/roadster with no people in the back, and a frame that is rasied into the trunk. My original plan is to step the frame a frame width, reverse eye spring, and loose a leaf or two. I would like to hear or see what you guys have done. Here is a couple of my car mocked up in the driveway.
You can reduce the number of leaves in the front spring to 6 or 7 rather than the stock 10 or 12. And a like number in the rear. Keep the 2nd leaf(the one that sits on the main leaf) and take out the odd numbered ones, reassemble, check for ride and "bottoming", dismantle and add in a long one and a shorter top one, and try again. You willl need to make a spacer under the spring so the clamp bars will still seat and keep it tight in the crossmember. For visual lowering put the runningboard aprons back on, and make up supports for them to bolt to the frame through the runningboard support bracket holes in the frame. For 1930 cars with one-piece apron/runningboards with nose of apron spotwelded to front fenders use full length 31 aprons.
A 1928 built by Frank Salisbury of upstate New York. Frank has more talent in his little finger than I have in my entire body and mind. One look at his car and I had to open my wallet. If you cant build it right, have a talented guy like Frank get 'er done!