Register now to get rid of these ads!

I have a question regarding my ladder bars, opions needed.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dynaflash_8, Jan 1, 2010.

  1. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,043

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    Ok, so in lieu of the holiday evening, and my birthday tomorrow, i spent some time out in the shop this evening working on my sedan. I made some ladder bars, but somthing just doesnt look right about them. Anybody care to chime in? Also, im curious about the various ways to mount them to the rear. I could use 3 heim joints per side, one on the front, and 2 on the back, but i also considered hard mounting them to the rear end, since they basically are anyway, and just having a bolt on type deal. I know that i would lose some adjustment, but with heims, i would only have about 3/4 of an inch anyway.

    Oh, and by the way, turning the big 19 tomorrow. Whoo:rolleyes:

    Any help is appreciated.

    No im not doing a 4 bar.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. 65COMET
    Joined: Apr 10, 2007
    Posts: 3,086

    65COMET
    Member

    I run coilovers with ladder bars on my race car and the main reasons for rod ends is to be able to adjust the traction in a race car but they also allow you to dial in your pinion angle.If it is a street car you may want to angle them in at the front,similar to a "truck arm" type system to keep the rear centered,or you need a panhard bar or diagonal link to keep the rear from moving side to side. ROY.
     
  3. hoop
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 660

    hoop
    Member

    You need a panhard bar either way.Unless you`re using parallel leaf or transverse spring.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2010
  4. Fuzzy Knight
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 11,806

    Fuzzy Knight
    Member
    from Santee, Ca

    You need to use clevises in the back and Heims in the front. Ladder bars are designed to keep the rear end somewhat centered front to back and to transfer weight to the back of the car. You did not mention what type of car this is going in or your spring set up but unless you are using coils you don't need a fucking Panard bar !
     
  5. concreteman
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,171

    concreteman
    Member

    Fuzzy
    I was not clear on what type of Panard bar was not needed :cool::cool:
     
  6. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,043

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    I know i need a panhard bar. Its going under a 29' sedan with a custom coil spring rear suspension.
     
  7. Fuzzy Knight
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 11,806

    Fuzzy Knight
    Member
    from Santee, Ca

    Did I not say this???
    but unless you are using coils you don't need a fucking Panard bar !
    :confused:
     
  8. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,043

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA


    I am using coils :confused:
     
  9. hotrod56cars
    Joined: Apr 3, 2007
    Posts: 464

    hotrod56cars
    Member

    Looks like concreteman sent you all on a loop.
     
  10. Martin_F
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 2,527

    Martin_F
    Member

    Coilovers don't help you, you need a panhard bar anyways...
    Here's my setup:
    [​IMG]
     
  11. hotrod56cars
    Joined: Apr 3, 2007
    Posts: 464

    hotrod56cars
    Member

    The shorter the ladder bars are the more likely that you might have to change/correct the pinion angle. If you ever raise or lower the rear suspension you'll also probably have to change the pinion angle if you're running shorter ladder bars. I advise making the ladder bars adjustable and not making them hard mounted. The labor/parts cost between making them adjustable vs. non-adjustable is very little. If the ladder bars are long it won't matter nearly as much.

    (edit) Your ladder bars look pretty long so if you set it up correctly you should be able to hard mount them.

    My truck is running adjustable short ladder bars, generic "coil overs", and a panhard.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2010
  12. concreteman
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,171

    concreteman
    Member

    I am clear now the Brand Panard Bar to use is Fucking :D:D
     
  13. hotrod56cars
    Joined: Apr 3, 2007
    Posts: 464

    hotrod56cars
    Member

    lmao
     
  14. woodman
    Joined: May 21, 2006
    Posts: 106

    woodman
    Member

    What size square tubing and wall thickness are you using?
     
  15. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,043

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    Its 1 1/4 .120 wall steel
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.