Features Doing Falcons Right

It should be held inside with screws and just nudge it with a flat head if its bonded on.

 

Depends on which type, hardtop (Futura), or post cars. (sedans and wagons).

As far as the windshield, rear glass (all except wagon) and (wagon) quarter windows, it is held in by the rubber.....need to remove the glass. On the side window frames on the sedan and wagons, trim is snaps on and can be gently pryed off.

 

so i got the parts for the front end on and what not, i have both the original upper control arms if anybody needs em, just need the bushings and ball joints. as far as everything else, its all put together and looking sweet! all i need to do is put the springs back in and the front end will be done with.

-Sam

 

One more thing. I got a 300 inline six, i know that will fit but what about a 300 tranny? would i have to make any modifications or anything? anybody know?

-Sam

 

Doing some body work on the Ranchero

 

the 300s are a tight fit due to their length. as far as the trans goes, anything will eventually fit, depends on how much you are willing to snip and bang. the chero is looking good!

 

right on, right on, its a thought, still havent made up my mind on it, might just save it for the next project, thanks

-Sam

 

My OE 14-gallon tank sprung a couple leaks recently, and I ended up buying a '65-'68 16-gallon tank and sender. It fits great, but the Falcon filler neck is giving me fits. I could re-clock it easily enough, but the angle toward the front of the car would still be wrong. And do any local places have a Mustang filler neck? Of course not!

I'm thinking of making my own from flexible exhaust tubing. Any ideas how to replicate the flange on the end?

-Dave

 

Nuts inside the sail panels headliner

 

i felt that way when i was doing my MII,, so i did a full frame and braced

 

I don't know, BC, but I dang sure wished I could find a new gas tank for a panel/station wagon a helluva lot cheaper than 250-300 bucks....I've seen the sedan versions available all day long for around a 100 smackers...it's discrimination, I tell ya!
Rob

 

Yeah, i'm real glad I don't have a wagon or Ranchero. I did hear that the rear tank off '70s or '80s F150s is supposed to be close.

-Dave

 

Let us know what you end up doing for the filler neck. You have got me curious now. Thanks for the heads up. I guess that my wagon gas tank may be worth something on eBay. I will try not to damage it anymore...
... I miss working on the wagon...

 

Thanks for the tip, Dave....I'll check that out!
Rob

 

From:http://www.tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=3829&start=0

-Dave

 

Thanks, Dave...that's great stuff!
I've been a member over at TFFN for a while, and you know, I never thought to search the archives! Doh!
Rob

 

I haven't actually worked on the car for a while, because a few other projects came up and jumped the line. One of these projects is getting the roadster back on the road.
So the roadster went into the garage, and the wagon went into the carport. This is the first time in probably three years (maybe more) that the wagon has been off of the jack stands and out in the driveway. There was some air trapped in the rear bags that I could not remove without a battery, so the rear will come down another 2 inches. Other than that, it was great to see it outside and add an entirely new angle.

 

Sweet!
Rob

 

nice wagon,,

 

Hey just a thought ..
dont like my gas cap out the side of my wagon any ideas on changes did get all the back end stuff from a cougar and thought of out my lic plate but tank sits way too high and wasnt sure of dropping the tank down a bit ...first thought was of pintos and there tanks
did think of inside the car at the back with a fuel cell and trap door ..but means dropping the tail gate at every fuel not sure if i like that idea either

 

I am going to make the rear tail light open and fill from inside the left rear quarter...

 

Sounds good any idea on how pics would be great ..sorta like 56 chev

 

I have no pics as I have not done it yet. I have, however, spent a fair amount of time thinking about it already .
The tail light/gas door would need long curved hinges so the light would swing away from the body. On the round bodies, there are two lips of metal in the tail light socket. I would cut the inner ring out to provide easy access to the filler neck located beyond. The pull release would be just behind the bumper. I would build a small compartment around the filler neck and vent it to the outside so that gas fumes don't buildup inside the quarter panel. Attached to the hinge would be a ring that the tail light bolts to. The pull and latch mechanism I will probably scavenge from a late-model in a wrecking yard. I would also probably use LEDs in the tail lights...
any other ideas?

 

Damn sounds good ...fabricatin and thinkin hat on..... this i gotta try
car would look so sweet with out that ugly ass gas cap hanging there
an spillin down the side of car every time you launch
lol mac tac aint easy to put on you know and it melts with gas
keep me informed will ya

 

I always hated the gas fillers on Falcons. The lines are great once you get rid of the cheap touches...

 

The spring tower vs. M-II thing will never die. There have been a few failures of certain parts, but there are also thousands of Falcons, Comets, early Mustangs, etc running around out there with no failures, everything still solid. There are many different kits out there of various prices and quality, and there are hack installers that don't know what they are doing. Good kit + good installer = safe car. Same as anything else chassis related. As to the safety of doing away with the spring towers and welding the cross member to the subframe rails, (reinforced, because hopefully you installed the frame rail surrounding/boxing plates which make the whole thing much stronger) how do you think a Pinto or Mustang II was built? Look at one someday.

-KK

 

I'm not an engineer. I understand what the other posters are saying.....but I tend to agree. I had mine (boxing plate/crossmember/engine mounts) tig welder by a certified welder and he welded them in completely. I also installed frame ties, so it's solid. I dont see alot of flex.

I recently did a resto on a full size Bronco 4wd with a 3 sided (unboxed) frame. The stripped frame, by itself, was incredibly flimsy. I could stand at the back and twist the rear rails and see the flex. Much of the rigidity obviously comes from the drive train and some from the body shell. Cant imagine its much different with the unibody. I am not going to race the car, and if I were, it would have a cage.

 

Have a Question for 1965 falcon wagon owners
looking for biggest tire combo i can go without cutting car
best i have done to date was a 245 60 14
now just running 70s on it... but want to go 15 inch rims
has anybody done a 255 60 15 if so what rim and backspace

 

Done living...