1932 Willys...barn find to runner in thirty days.

Anybody know how i can change or modify this thread title?

 

I like the rake, even with the gap above the rear tires. I'm thinking you will not like it if the running boards are parallel to the ground.

 

Good eye, plan on dropping the ass end only about an inch and keeping about a 1 1/2" rake. Thinking level would take something away from it.

 

just caught up. very cool thread with some humour. keep up the great work.

 

Finally got another couple days out in the shop and got the rear end dialed in. The stock Willy's shackles were a unique tappered pin and cone set-up. Maybe good for the day but not now. I whittled out some new ones and shortened them a bit. Rear shocks and panard bar are handled as well. I managed to drop the ride height about 3/4" with the new shackles and hope when the car is complete that everything settles another 3/4". The steering is up next, for the third time. This time it should be a keeper.It'll be a unisteer unit but mounted in a unique way. Stay tuned....

 

Great job. Keep it up, it's looking very good.

Can't wait to see it done.

Kevin
Ooltewah Speed Shop

 

Did you ever say what app the rear is from? I scrolled back but I didn't see any mention of it. I'm really, really kicking around the idea of upgrading my car in the same way but it's almost too original. I also want it to be usable though, so who knows where I'll end up.

As a side note I hate to keep asking, but please keep me in mind if you're not going to be needing your running board trim. I'm missing one side.

thanks again.

 

The rear is out of a late 60's Bronco. It's the same width, 59 inches if i remember correctly. The one running board trim piece that i do have is only about 70% there. You can have it if you want but there's not much left.

 

70% length-wise or corrosion-wise? My boards should be shorter, so if the ends are toast I can probably trim it down and make it work. Send me a DM with what you need for shipping to 18512 and I'll get it right out to you.

 

every time I see this thing it looks better and better

 

First i have to find it and then i'll post a couple pictures so you can see if you really want it.

 

Thanks, if it starts going the other direction let me know LOL.

 

You will have to send a PM to one of the Moderators asking them to change. Include a link.

 

Thanks now i feel slightly less stupid.

 

Montclaire, here's some photos of the running board trim. I'm not smart enough to have sent these via PM. Pretty damn happy i get photos up on here.

 

I will measure mine tomorrow but I'm pretty sure that there's probably more than enough there. Do you think it couldn't be polished? I didn't see any rot-through. Elbow grease I am not afraid of, and this is certainly a case of 'something is better than nothing.'


I wanted to ask you about the first front axle that you installed, is the height the only reason you swapped to the transverse leaf setup? Do you think you could have gotten a set of disc spindles to work with the stock axle? I can't remember off the top of my head what the wheel bolt pattern is on the stock wheels, maybe 5 on 5? I'd have to try to find something to work with that then, as I'd probably keep the stockers. With motorcycle tires maybe? Who knows. It looks like you redrilled the lug mounts on the rears?

I've never driven anything with cable brakes outside of a bicycle, but I have a feeling I'm going to be running for the speedway catalog after I take the first trip around the block with this thing.

 

hell yeah man great build !!!

 

When will it be my turn to find something like that? HaHa

 

FYI, this particular car was listed on the HAMB for months, at a very reasonable price.

I'm very happy to see that it will be getting some use again and milwscruffy has probably gotten more done on it that most of us will accomplish in a decade.

 

The 70% was on the thickness. It probably could be polished to a point but very slowly and carefully. This piece is no show winner but i think it could be a usable driver piece. As far as front brakes take a look at post # 15. In my opinion that would be the best way to go about it. The stock axle has an odd kingpin size and i couldn't find bearings to get the job done. The new axle was two fold, height and spring behind not to mention good brakes. Stock pattern is 5 X 4 1/2" (Ford). I'm 5 X 4 3/4" all the way around.

 

Don't yell at me ...but why the panhard bar on a leaf spring rear?

 

I don't even know you how could i yell at you? Anyways seeing that i'm using the original rear leaf springs the drivers side main leaf has a very slight twist to it and without the panard bar the rear wanted to favor the drivers side rather than center itself. Seeing that the new tires and rims are pretty damn close to the inner wheelwells (1/2"-5/8") this should give me piece of mind basicly. The panard is as long as i could go so i don't think up and down travel will have a big affect on the rear shifting side to side. That said i may well space the rear tires out a bit more. Hope this makes sense .

 

I had a posted a big long response but I don't know where it went. Now I have to remember what the hell I wanted to ask...

Driver quality is good enough for me as far as the trim is concerned, and like I said, I have to use what's out there or just delete it. The one that I have isn't perfect either. I found a note that the boards were around 47.5" long so from what I saw in the one photo the length should be fine, I think they were about 49". Let me know what you need for it.

I thought the bolt patter was bigger, must have been something I was looking at to swap out at one point, but I'm glad that it's the common ford pattern, that means I'll have an easier time getting something to match up.

I'm trying to figure out which axle you first got from Speedway, I think you said it was a 4" drop? The stock axle from what I remember has a decent drop right from the factory - did you feel that the 4" was actually close to the stock ride height? I'm also not sure how much length the ford spindles and discs add to the equation, I want to keep the stock wheels so the wheel base has to stay close to factory. That means I have to double check that the stock wheels will clear the ford discs. Hopefully Speedway has at least a flange-to-flange measurment on their axles. I am happy that I can probably get something to fit without a huge ordeal and that I can use the ford king pins, which will no doubt be available for eons to come.

I haven't torn into my front end yet, but was there any way to positively locate the front axle? I recall sort of an upper and lower clamp setup for the spring perch. My one front leaf is toast so I need new ones made up anyway, I'm sure they can come up with something if there's no button or pin to locate it or?

I was kind of bummed that you ditched the factory pedals, I thought they were pretty cool with the little tabs on the sides to keep your foot from slipping. I can see why though, it's probably going to be a bear for me to try to keep the look of the factory pedal, even with a frame mount master.

I'm sure I forgot something, I'll add later if I can think of it.

 

Here's a photo, is any of this stuff (clamp, perch) welded to the axle or is it all loose? Was the axle itself machined to help accept and locate the clamp, or does it just come down to the u-bolts.

 

Howdy, I finally ended up with a 6" drop and spring behind setup. I can always use the 4" on my A or T projects. The stock axle has flats on it's top and bottom and angles on the perchs that locate the stocker. It's all unboltable and the new axle is actually slightly narrower than the stock one and that's with the disc brake set-up on. I thought about using the stock pedals but as you will find out their a bear to work around. I'll get the trim piece packed up and take it to work to ship it on Monday. PM me your address and we can work out things from there. Think i'll put it inside a piece of PVC and cap off the ends. Steering should be in tommorow with any luck.

 

Scruffy, PM sent

I was looking at the photo and I remembered that the reason you had the accident was the perch breaking loose. I was thinking that I would weld the top clamp directly to the new axle but if it's made for a machined surface rather than a tubular one I have my doubts. Especially given your luck in the matter.

Oh well, back to the speedway catalog

 

I Believe the Perches just had Tack Welds on... then a Test... and I Missed taking Video

BTW Steve...... Post a pic of the Model A on the "Hot Rods pics of cars you built before you were 20"

Hell you were what 18 when you Built that Monster lol

 

Got the steering pretty well handled this weekend. Used a Unisteer unit and being this ain't a 28'-32' Ford had to get creative. Made a crossmember for the unit to mount to seeing the finished position was a ways from the frame rail. A little boxing , some fab work and...

 

I then fabbed up the steering shaft and support. What took a while to figure out was how to hide this as best as possible. With a low mount alternator ( yeah i know not HAMB friendly) it pretty much covers up and makes the Unisteer go away. Happy with the results and think front shock mounts are up next, Scruuff.