Evapo Rust (it really works)

i have always been skeptical of rust remover stuff....BUT Evapo Rust really works. i have been using it at work on some of my parts. THIS STUFF WORKS GREAT. just soak your part in the bucket and leave it for 1 hour or overnight for heavy rust and BAM clean metal again.

it wont remove chrome or paint just the rust. it doesn't burn your hands, eyes and you can flush it down the drain. this***** is almost organic.

finally found a product that i felt i just had to share with others. this might have been mentioned before but i had to do.



http://www.evaporust.com/index.html

http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-Before-and-After-W7C2.aspx

 

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to give it a try myself.

 

Electrolosys is FREE (Virtually) and vinegar is real cheap.
Both work equally as well.

 

Yeah after tryin the vinegar thing I'm sticking with it. Cheap and good old vinegar is the way to go!

 

Great! Now all I have to do is find a bucket big enough to fit my hood in.

 

Use mollassus, you can paint that stuff on, let it sit and scrape or wipe it off.

 

If you want something faster than vinegar but works the same...muriatic acid. I got it from Menards in the paint section it is used to etch concrete. Mix it 1 part acid with 4 parts water. It takes the rust fast...BUT WEAR HEAVY RUBBER GLOVES AND DON'T BREATHE THE VAPORS...it is nasty stuff but it does the job.

 

But did we ever determine if vinegar eats paint or not?

 

only use muriatic acid if you dont own any other metal parts, or you are stripping out in the middle of the field.

if you're doing it in the garage, the vapors WILL find everything in the vicinity and actually produce surface rust.

 

And ALWAYS pour the acid into the water and Never the water into the acid. Wayno

 

I just went through a couple of carbs and all the steel parts were soaked in vineger. Worked AWESOME! I had a very rusty idle adjustment screw that was the extreme test. It took most of the rust off on it's own and the rest just flaked off leaving fresh metal. Pitted, yes, but the rust was gone.

 

post a pic of a before and after of the rusty parts that where you used with vinegar.


theres over a 100 ways to skin a cat. this is one of them.

 

I hope I don't offend any of the forum nazi's by bumping this old**** thread back to the top but. . .I'll do it anyway!! They say pictures are worth a thousand words so i'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Keep in mind, i did not scrub/brush these brake parts one time. All of the rust removal was courtesy of a 6 hour dip in Evapo Rust and a quick rinse in hot water.




after cleaning, i like to coat all of my parts in Marine Grade Corrosion X. I've been using this stuff on saltwater bound watercraft for years with great results!!
http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html

 

Forum Nazi's, that's a good one

 

I don't mean to offend anyone, especially being a newcomer to the hamb, but I felt I should add pics to support the OP's statement. I have seen Evapo Rust posted by a few different people and thought it would be nice to add some pics to the thread with Evapo Rust in the****le in case other members use the search function. I know it helped me, just trying to pass it on!!!

 

I use to race at Mid Ohio 4-5 times a year, guys would walk the track and hand out small containers of Evapo Rust. Took one home and cleaned up bolts off a banjo rear. It really works!

 

I'll have to try that stuff. I used to either use vinegar or a wire wheel on a bench grinder or both.

 

try wood bleach (oxalic acid) or ascorbic acid which is vitamin C or Citric Acid Powder, the "safest rust remover" and evaporust are either one of these. But they're selling you about 70%-80% water, why pay for the water when you can get the pure concentrate.
Basically you make a bath for your parts. mix the chemical to a certain part water and dunk your parts for a day or two.
Note that these two type of acids are able to be disposed of down the regular drain, you should wear gloves, but this stuff won't burn you like muratic acid or navel jelly.

also note that there are acid that will eat the base metal as well as the rust and acids that just eat the rust.
you can get it in bulk at the chemistry store.

everyone look here http://www.os-bmx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38436

 

These threads are always good.

 

It looks like Summit Racing also carries a private label version.

 

that stuff is awesome. ive used it on tools, parts, etc.
a guy in my hometown turned me on to it years ago after he poured it into a frozen tractor motor and freed it up.
turns out his son developed it,sold it to the military under one name and lisenced it in the private sector under a varity of names to several companies.
i still get mine from his dad at the local florists. i guess posies aint the only florist into cars and old machinery.

 

it's true! you should see my friends shed hahah.

now with this other product. do you need to do anything to the part after you clean off the gunk? or can it be painted right away?

 

OK, I have to say I was pessimistic about this product. I bought some and now, I am a believer. I cleaned small parts all day Saturday, while not missing a beat swapping springs out on my car

 

I saw a gallon jug at Harbor Freight for $20. I think I need to stop there on my way home tonight.

 

I hope the pictures helped. . .I searched high and low around here and found Evapo Rust mentioned several times but never any real world pics to back up the claims. I'm glad I bought a jug to try it out, $20 well spent. After i cleaned my parts, I just strained the product and poured it back in the jug for future use. I'll report back when it quits working for me. . .

 

simply wash off the residue with water and dry your parts(I'd probably use some sort of parts cleaner to be certain though). . .I would imagine it doesn't leave too much lasting residue since the jug warns about flash rust. The jug also mentions re-dipping your cleaned parts after rinsing them to prevent flash rust for up to 2 weeks.

 

Oreilly Auto has it also!!

 

They recently came out with a new product called RUST-Block. It's a water based rust inhibitor. I got a sample of it at SEMA and it seems to work pretty good. Although, I live in a dry climate (Las Vegas) and we don't have a big problem with rust anyhow.

 

Would this be okay to use on a block to get rid of the rust in the passages or would it damage the finished surfaces (cylinder bore, etc)? Also, I'm guessing that it would eat the babbit/softer metal bearings if they were left in place?

 

YUP. This is the magic sauce.

Wood Bleach is getting harder to find thses days but you can getthe same chemical (oxalic acid) in BARKEEPERS FREIND... you can find this stuff at almost any grocery store in the cleaners aisle.

http://barkeepersfriend.com/BarKeepersFriend_powder.htm