Love is.......The Feburary Banger Meet

No, I just went Saturday. That was enough for me.

Yes, the race car building was the highlight of the show for me.

Sorry I missed you.

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Mark,
If the serial number on the block is lower then @ 200,000, then you probably have a 5 bearing cam engine. Good block for an overhead or high lift cam.

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All bangers out here start with CA

My engine number is *CA365xx* so as soon as I can I'll pull it down, as I'm hoping like all hell its a 5 bearing cam. I have the stock "B" cam here for grinding for a good about town cam, matched to a T5, and a lightened flywheel, it should be great for a stop light "racer".

 

2 questions fellas, and Im sure you can help.

1. Is this a T spring? I bought it on eBay and it LOOKED like it was in the pic, but now im not sure. I held it up to a stock A spring mounted on a rearend and it looks like its the same size? I measured it from the ground up and its about 14.5in tall. Did I just get hosed?

2. How do I pull my light switch in my steering wheel? Im still having an issue with the switch not going back down into position. Im pretty sure I have the 2 tooth box.

 

Looks like a T, but remember the T spring is narrower then the A...so measure how wide the leaf on one is, then compare to the other. A "T" spring will be 1/4" narrower.


To get the light switch off is pretty easy. You gotta take the "bulb" off the bottom of the steering box that houses the light switch. Once off, you will see the little fork that works the light switch connected to the horn button rod. Push up (twards the steering wheel) on that fork, there is a horseshoe clip that holds the fork on. Get the clip off, remove the fork and spring and then the button should slide up and out of the steering column. NOTE: If in a coupe or pickup I don;t know if you will be able to get it all the way out before it hits the roof...may be able to take the rear window out (if thats an easy task) and slide it out that way.

 

Hey Srosa707,
I just read your question again and if you simply want to know how to get the actual switch off here you go...
There is a wire bale that kind of holds the "bulb" up against the bottom of the steering box. Pop that bale off, and the bulb simply twist a little, then pulls apart...just like taking a tailight bulb out of a socket. The switch is inside that bulb. To install, reverse the steps. Sounds like a Chilton's book, huh

 

HAHAHA, thanks chris! I got the bulb off, but when I pull up on the fork, I dont see a clip? Maybe it fell off at one point? Now the switch sticks up about a half inch and wont go down. When I pull up on the switch, its under spring tension. I think that someone swapped a 30-31 setup into this 28 pickup. I really just want to get the switch back down into position. Its driving me nuts, and stopping me from finishing my wiring on the truck. I need th switch in the correct spot to check my lights.

 

Ya, its about the same size as the one on the rearend, but the one mounted on the rearend is under tension. Im assuming that when its off the rear, it will be a bit taller. Should I remove leaves from this one or should it be good with 8? Also, the leaves seem thicker than the A spring?

 

If the clip was off, the fork would fall off. There is a spring behind the fork as well, pushing down on the fork (shoving it into the switch), so I'm sure it's there. The clip is right near the very bottom of the light rod.

 

Also, will i need different shackles with that spring? T shackeles?

 

It also has oiling holes on top of the end of the spring, both sides.

 

I didn't mean narrower like the total length...measure across a leaf, like how wide the spring eye is. If it is narrower then the one under your car, it's a T.

A's are shaped different. I'm pretty sure yours is a T, but measuring will tell for sure.

 

Oh yeah, that's a T then. I don't think A's ever had that. Are the leafs tappered? Also, some early T's had the date made stamped onto the tops of the leafs.

 

Just measured it, the A spring on the rearend is a 2 1/4 and the one I got on eBay is a 2in. Its gotta be a T. Bitchin.

Heres a snap of the steering. Am I just missing something? I dont see the clip? I messed with it but couldnt get any movement? Maybe the reason I cant get to the clip is because the steering rod is already pulled UP about a half inch? Has anyone had this problem before?(camera phones rule. DROID does)

 

Just because I think some may need a break from all the Ford posts and to show you something you don't see every day---Rocker assembly for a '26 Dodge Bros.

 

I see the clip...OK, see the lightr rod, it's the center shaft. Then see how theres a circle around it, followed by the fork? that circle is the clip. You gotta push the fork up (twards the steering wheel) and the clip will pull out. It's horseshoe shape and fits in a grove on the light rod. It may be that you can't get it off because the rod is pushed up. Have someone hold down on the horn button when you try this...or be creative like me. I tape the horn button down to the wheel if no one is around to help

On the shackles, you gotta run A's. The shackle and bushing will be 1/4" too wide, so you should make some shims for the T spring side....I never did this on my coupe but plan too.

 

Now THAT is BITCHIN!

 

Go Rich, Go! Can't wait for the U-tube of that thing running.

 

I think you should show more pics... Did you make that set up? Looks very nice might look better on a ford
Your Dodge is going to be bad ass keep us posted
later Bill

 

I made the base and stands with mockup rockers and shaft. Then I sent the whole mess off to Rocker Arm Specialist for roller rockers and a hard crome shaft. Since all the geometry was worked out the price was pretty fair. This is what they sent back.

 

Hey fellas,

This is a picture of my roadster in 1947. I'd like your input or ideas on what's going in this photo. I'd posted this photo before but as I was looking at it closer, it has posed a few questions that some of you may be able to answer.

#1 Can anyone tell what type/model of magneto is being used?
a) Wico
b) Scintilla
What other could have been used?

#2 Why or how is there no generator?

#3 Why or how is there no starter?

Could it be they removed these items to work on the motor?
Would or could these items be removed while running a magneto?

Point out any other ideas you see in the picture, such as:
Running mechanical front brakes.
Water inlet to the radiator has been moved inside the hood.

I am just trying to learn more about my roadster with the little photo evidence I have.

Thanks for any help or ideas.

Gaters -

 

I'm not sure what the magneto is. The car was evidently used as a racer (no lights, fenders etc). With a magneto, the battery, starter and generator are not needed. Removing them would give a reduction in weight. Crank or push was used to start the engine.

 

For sure it's a lakes racer. You can see the lake bed in the photo. As is pointed out above with a Magneto the mag generates it's own electricty so you would not need to run a battery. Lighter weight. Also you don't need lights for a race car and in those days race cars were push started so you don't need a starter which you don't have a battery for anyway. Normal for the time and place.

 

You're right, it was used to race El Mirage (46-49 that I can tell). This Riley set up was one of the motors that was in my roadster back then.

I assumed that is why they were missing with the use of the mag but wasn't sure. I was going under the presumption that the push start was because of the low rear end gears. The removal of the generator and stater is a new one on me. Cool!

Thanks for the info!!

 

RF,

Any ideas on the 2-Port Riley Head. I know he made a cast head but this one looks to be aluminum. What years did they change?

The picture was taken Sept 1947. This picture was provided to me by Jim Miller (AHRF) and is posted on their site. Jim was kind enough to send me this copy. The same roadster is pictured in my avatar.

 

have you checked with Jim Brierlery? Puts out the Hot for Hot Fours news letter. He would know. Or if Bruce Lancaster chimes in I bet he would know. Haven't heard from Bruce lately. Hope he signs on.

 

What Chris said goes for me too.

Rich,
All your stuff is bitchin. Even if it isn't Ford.

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Hi all , this is my first post to the bangers meet .
I have a 30 model A roadster that was converted into a buckboard ute some time in the past ( as normal here in oz ) I got rego just before xmas & took it out on the first drive on the road ( been driving around my 5 acres)at about 35mph it sounded & felt like the crank was about to fall out , on checking with a friend he said it might be the bearings , so I pulled the sump & found shims on all the caps so I went to adjust them only to find no babbit at all on the center cap .
So now I'am building a new motor , I will be fitting insert bearings to the mains & big ends & fitting full pressure oil to the mains .
My Question is it worth the trouble to drill the crank or not ?( I can do this at work ).
I also need a AA bellhousing for a gearbox swap I'am thinking of doing , if any of the OZ members have one they would like to sell please let me know?

 

I think my son and I made a mistake in showing our race car. None of you picked up that it was Banger powered. We were gona leave the top hood off and probably should have. But the car looks smooth all togeather How many of you knew the Black 27 Roadster was Banger powered.--TV