Resurrecting the 1964 Rambler Classic

Call Mac McCoy in Oregon (503-232-0497, e-mail ramblers@teleport,com). He might be able to fix you up with a rear glass. There's also a Rambler club in Washington that might be better -- http://www.cascaderamblers.org/

Just don't mention hot rodding the car to most of the Rambler guys (I'm an exception...). They are pleased to help you with fixing one up as a driver or restoring it, but most frown on hot-rodding one, especially on transplanting another drive train. I seem to recall you were planning on keeping the 287, so that's a good sign to them! A mild custom they won't mind at all.

Most of the clubs are realizing they need to get over this -- it happens, and part can be hard to find and/or expensive. AMO even has a non-AMC powered class now.

 

That car needs a 390/401 and a nice, beefy automatic.

 

Meh, turbo will do better.

Im goin 327, sweet sweet 327.

 

There ya go! Those ARE good engines with a lot of potential (I'm assuming you're talking about an AMC 327), just a bit more work to get to it. Besides, the ride is a lot more interesting with the original engine hopped up a bit!

 

Hang on farna, Jeep 327's are Basically just rambler motors right? no weird tricks, different motor mount, or anything like that?

 

That's correct. Kaiser Jeep bought the "Vigilante" 327 from AMC. The only difference is Jeep used a cast iron adapter and a GM TH-400 trans. The trans is the GM "Universal" model, which is the Buick "Nailhead" trans. That one had a shallower bell to fit the Buick engine so had plenty room to make an adapter. If you get the Jeep engine with trans and all you're all set! you need the flexplate and I think a torque converter spacer (don't recall if it's between crank and flexplate or what) as well as the adapter. The 4x4 TH-400 can be converted to 2WD with the output shaft from any TH-400 model, but requires the tranny be torn down.

 

I wonder if rambler ever trademarked the word classic?

 

My first car I (borrowed,ya right) and learned to drive in was a 63 rambler classic. I was just a measly 13 years old. Fond memories of my father wanting to kick my ass when ever he caught us driving it

 

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Video of the rambler. so..... Yeah.

FYI, Yes, im 14, but im learning alot about cars, hotrodding. So give me some fair respect.

 

Actually, those old Rambler 327s were surprisingly good. There was a guy woused to drag race one around the time yours was manufactured. Check out some old rodding magazines from around '63-64 to find out more.

 

Kid, you have to EARN respect, but you'll get your due from most here. It was a good idea to tell us you're 14 and learning. That in itself will get you a bit of respect, or maybe "consideration" is a better word. We will respect the fact that you're learning, just remember that most of us here have gone through MANY cars and made the mistakes you're going to be making (like busting the radiator when taking it out) several times over. So yeah, we understand where you're at now and will respect that, as long as you remember that we've "been there/done that" a time or two.

The rust in the floor isn't all that bad. It most likely came from windows being left down and water getting in the carpet.

To get the back cushion out (well, seat frame in your case!) isn't that hard. There are two bolts on the top edge that are inside the trunk. Should be easy enough to find the nuts and unscrew them. On the bottom edge in the floor on the inside of the car should be two tabs on the seat frame with phillips screws in them. You couldn't break into the trunk in those cars once you got in the passenger compartment!

To free the engine pour about half a cup of a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone. I'd buy a quart of each and mix, then spread a quart to a quart and a half over the eight cylinders. Save the rest -- best penetrating oil mix you can get! You might want to get a little squirt can and put the rest in.

Let it sit at least over night. Put a socket with a long pull handle on the balancer bolt and try turning it over. To the passenger side might break the bolt loose, no big deal. Once it breaks loose roll it over a few times with the starter with the spark plugs out. Might spray a little oil out, but won't hurt anything -- most of the penetrating mix will be in the pan. Rolling it over a few seconds with the starter won't hurt, but don't try to crank it until you change the oil. You shouldn't do any damage with the thin oil mixture as long as the car is just idling, but could if you rev it up much for long or put a load on it (drove it -- a definite no-no with thinned oil!). Running the thinned oil through it for a few minutes at 1000 rpm or less will be good -- will clean the oil passages and lifters. Five minutes is about enough, and don't go over 1500 rpm and DO NOT put a load on the engine (don't put in gear).

The carb needs to come off and be cleaned. You might be able to pull the top off and clean it on the car okay, but better off the car. If you don't tear a gasket it would be great, but the gaskets are probably dried and stuck on. So you'll likely need a carb kit to clean it.

DO NOT try to run anything in that gas tank! It needs to come out and be cleaned first. Old gas leaves a nasty residue that new gas (especially with alcohol in it) will dissolve and run through the engine. There it burns and creates a vapor that condenses in the valve guides and causes valves to stick, which leads to bent pushrods or pushrods jumping out of place. You can use brick cleaning acid to clean the tank out. Dilute it about the same as it calls for when cleaning bricks, and be careful! Don't want it in your eyes, on clothes, or skin. Of course it will leave holes in your clothes (usually after washing, you don't know you got enough on to do any damage until getting out of the wash!) and burn skin/eyes. Won't hurt to throw some SMALL gravel or a handful of old nuts (1/4" - 3/8" -- about the same size as the gravle you should use) in there and slosh around with a gallon or so of cleaning solution. The gravel/nuts will knock any rust loose. Pour a gallon or two in then tape over all holes real good, slosh around as best you can, then pour out into a 5 gallon bucket. Throw a couple tablespoons of baking soda in and stir, wait five minutes, and you can pour it down the drain (soda neutralizes the acid). Rinse out a few times with the acid solution, and make sure you get it on all surfaces in the tank. Just don't forget to neutralize the cruddy acid/water solution before pouring out anywhere but a bucket.

The most common issue with the Borg-Warner auto trans you have is sticking valves in the valve body when it sits up a long time. You're no where near running the thing, so I'll go over that when you get there.

That should keep you busy for a few weekends!!

Oh, get a TSM (Technical Service Manual -- what AMC called the factory repair manual) for your car! That's the best $30-$40 you'll ever spend. It assumes you know general mechanics, but explains all the specific things about the car -- including engine/trans/carb rebuilding, wiring -- EVERYTHING!! Then you could look in the interior section and see exactly where the bolts to get the seat out are. They show up on e-bay all the time. A 63 or 64 manual will be fine -- only a few minor changes between the two years (different taillight housings and lenses, different grille and hood -- that's about it!).

 

After the Gas Cap has been off since 92, i dont even want to know whats crawled in the tank, let alone run any gas that might still be in it.

The we couldent get the carb to move, so i dont know if we could even get it to start on that carb. (Unless we prime with the carb open, maybe???)

The transmission is why it was parked in the first place, if i recall. the guy said that it only ran on Reverse and First, and first only worked half the time, so i know, its FAR from driving.

We found a service manual for cars 54-63, and the Rambler Classic was included, Lots of info on the 287/327.

Good thing the book has the firing order, cause i completely forgot.

 

The carb is probably just stuck. Take it apart and stick it in cleaner to soak. You can get a gallon can of carb cleaner with a little basket inside, can get about half the carb in there at a time. The base of the carb might be cast iron and the steel butterflies rusted in. doesn't take much rust to hold things tight, but will usually clean up. If not, I'm pretty sure that's a standard Holley pattern and any Holley 2V should bolt on.

The Chilton's manual you have is okay for basic work, but you REALLY need that factory service manual. It shows so much in detail that the Chilton's just doesn't cover.

The problem with the trans is likely just old seals. The servos and valve body can be removed without taking the trans out and then cleaned. The servos activate the bands. They just have an o-ring or two on a piston that easily comes out. You DEFINITELY need the factory service manual (TSM) to pull and clean the valve body. Once you see one you'll realize the Chilton's "multi-make" manual is just the tip of the iceberg.

 

Freeing the engine, just dropped in an acetone/tranny fluid mix. Carb is stuck, but i want to hear it run, Would it be a good idea to take off the carb and pour gas down its "open neck hole"?

 

I bought a 68 American for my Dad for fathers day a couple years ago. This is the only pic I have on my computer right now. I paid $300 for it and drove it home. Weve done a lot to it since then. Thats my last car sitting next to it, my brother owns it now.

 

The carb base is probably the only thing stuck -- the throttle shaft rusted in the iron base. But if it's slightly open, you should be able to pour about 1/4 cup of gas down the throat and get it to fire and rev a couple seconds. Might take a little more gas than that, but be careful! If it back fires make sure you have a damp rag to throw over the intake opening.

 

I had a 69 rambler and I loved that car. Had a 199 and would just run all day long. I miss it a lot.

 

We just pulled the Rambler into the garage finally. (yeah right, i pushed it), we took off the trunk lid, and POR 15'd it.

 

Big Block

 

I would, but its too much work. I have a plan, and i going to stick with it.

 

I'm the friend, I am working in a 65 american 440 2 door hardtop. it came with a 196/3speed from the factory. I plan on using the bulltear mounts, picked up a bigger straight 6 crossmember from fellow HAMBER Tomslik.

I love the the classics, especially the hardtops. As far as a 4 barrel intake for the 287 that might be a more rare part to find. In the future you may want to go with another drivetrain. Farna can back me up on this that you can do some crazy things with the straight sixes.

 

If you look for a 287 4V intake you won't find one, but most 327s were 4V and the intake swaps. Factory just never put it on the 287. The 4V intake from a 57-61 Rambler Rebel 250 V-8 will fit also.

 

Very Cool Rambler good luck on your build.

I have a 65 Classic 660 with 287 and Flash-O Matic transmission. I also have a 70 AMX.

 

Ok, 287 simply WONT open up, and 327's just arent out there, ive looked for BOAT engines, Wagoneers, so im giving up on a 1st gen.

New goal: 401.

 

You give up too easy. Have you tried looking up any Pacific Northwest AMC clubs? Try contacting http://www.cascaderamblers.org/ (Washington) and http://www.amcrc.com/RC/ (Oregon). I haven't seen you join ANY of the AMC boards and ask. There are a few AMC guys on here, but scattered about. You're more likely to find a 327 by joining AMC and Jeep boards and asking around. Checked Craig's List in your area? You might have to travel a day (4-6 hours each way) to get one too -- they aren't around every corner.

A 390 or 401 won't be any easier to find either. You'll have the same problem. These aren't cars for the impatient. Hang in there and you'll end up with a unique and enjoyable ride, but if you want/need something you can go out and order from a catalog stick to popular Chevys,Fords, and Chryslers. Or maybe get a Javelin or AMX.

What's wrong with the 287? It can be pepped up real easy. Make adapter plates for a later model AMC intake (1/2" thick aluminum plate port matched) -- I'd recommend a Performer for street use -- and bolt on a 600 cfm carb. But you really need a new cam. you'll have to pull the existing cam and send it in to be reground, but any of the big cam companies will do that. Just tell them what you go and what kind of performance you're looking for -- but be realistic. You CAN drag race one, but....

I know a guy who was running 11s with a 287 in a 64 Classic four door. It had a big blow-through single turbo setup pushing 20 psi though. It ran into the 12s on six cylinders one night -- had broken two rocker arms and bent one pushrod, killing two cylinders. It started making some odd noise and running a little rough but he ran it anyway since he had another engine being built -- figured he'd see what would break. Found the two dead cylinders when he started tear-down and was impressed!

 

Dont say that Brootal will read this and think you are serious..... Everyone in Aus has spent years telling him that his isn't.

 

nice to see someone else doing up a 60s rambler....good on ya

 

cool cars. heres a buddies old '65 rambler classic



he sold it and bought a for f100. now hes selling that and doesnt know what he wants lol

 

Maybe try for a 360, around guys pull the 360s and 304s out of jeeps all the time to drop in chebby 350s. but I think you should keep trying a little more get the 287 to work. You could do a 258 straight six with an offenhauser 4 barrel intake and some other trick stuff.

 

If you don't find a 327 then the 360 is the next best bet. 390s and 401s are as hard to come by and will cost more than a 327, 360s are a dime a dozen in comparison. Nor much point in wasting time and money on a 304. They can be made to run, but will cost as much or more than making a 360 run, and you'll always have more power for the same price from the 360. That's why only a very few do anything with a 304.

Contact Jim Blair (carnuck@hotmail.com) about a 327. He works with a lot of AMC/Rambler and Jeep people in the upstate Washington area. Tell him Frank from the AMC-List sent you! If he doesn't have a lead on a 327 he may have one on a 360.