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235 or 261? Stovebolt Engine Numbers ID Help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by terd ferguson, Feb 27, 2010.

  1. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    I've searched, saw squirrel's thread, looked on inliners, stovebolt, and oldcarmanual. I can't seem to figure it out.

    Here's the numbers, or at least I think so. I'm a little confused.

    Base of the distributor: F505L

    Head on the dizzy side: B40 848
    850

    Head on the carb side: 3836848
    GM22

    Starter: GM4 E18 (not too sure about this one, it's hard to see)




    So I'm pretty sure the head is '56 235. The rest I'm not so sure about. So If you can help out I'd appreciate it!
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2010
  2. Brandy
    Joined: Dec 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,286

    Brandy
    Member
    from Texas

    http://www.inliners.org/


    I SUCK at identifying Stovies but try that AND there are links at the top of that one to help further.
     
  3. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member


    Thanks, but I looked there and didn't see any of my numbers.
     
  4. Brandy
    Joined: Dec 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,286

    Brandy
    Member
    from Texas

    Okay are you sure you got the numbers right? Did you look under the babbit motors link?

    I'm stretching I know.:eek:
     
  5. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    The only one I'm not sure of is the numbers by the starter. It's dirty and partially obscured by the starter itself. You can probably count on those being wrong. The number on the carb side of the head (3836848) indicate '56 235. I "think" the numbers by the dizzy (F505L) mean F for Flint, 5 for May, 05 for the fifth day (of May), and the L I have no idea. I can't find any info on the B40 848 (w/850 under the 848) numbers on the head on the dizzy side.
     
  6. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    The 235 casting number is not easy to see. Look on the front of the engine on the pass side very low, just above the pan, small characters. Is the F505L on the machined pad to the left of the distributor or on the base of the dist itself or on the block?
     
  7. sixinarowjoe
    Joined: Aug 10, 2002
    Posts: 337

    sixinarowjoe
    Member
    from eastcoast

    the block # is on the pass side down by the starter (mine is 3837004 =55-57 235 ) thats the one that can be looked up on inliners -
     
  8. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    I have a '54 235 and the number is down in front of the fuel pump mount hole as described previously. Better check both places, apparently they move around.
     
  9. sixinarowjoe
    Joined: Aug 10, 2002
    Posts: 337

    sixinarowjoe
    Member
    from eastcoast

    oops your correct old buzzard my bad !- too early ,no coffee yet - , i just sent him some pics and a link to the jim carter site ,inhis other post on oil filters he is saying he has 1/2 holes for the oil lines -sounds like a 261 --
     
  10. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    No problem. I would imagine that there is a possibility that the numbers could be in different places on different year blocks. -sounds like a 261- Now that would be terrible, wouldn't it?
     
  11. sixinarowjoe
    Joined: Aug 10, 2002
    Posts: 337

    sixinarowjoe
    Member
    from eastcoast

    nope definetly my mistake ,i went out and checked both of my motors, and as you stated the are in the front,I wouldn't mind getting a 261 ,been looking for a while but nothing local ,all the yards with the big trucks,busses have scrapped out
     
  12. bob308
    Joined: Nov 27, 2009
    Posts: 220

    bob308
    Member

    i don't know about the block but the 848 head is the most sought after. they have the smallest combustion chambers. also that was the number used on the 54-55 corvette 6's. it would even be good to use on a 261 if you found one.
     
  13. Old Roadster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2006
    Posts: 610

    Old Roadster
    Member

    Last edited: Feb 27, 2010
  14. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,399

    6inarow
    Member

    Patricks catalogue goes a long way to identify these engines. PM your address and I'll send one to you if you don't have it.
     
  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,948

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The L suffix for 58-59 means 261 from a 6000 series truck. Block casting date E 1 8 would be May 1st 1958. The build date of the engine is May 5th. (F505L means: Flint May 5 suffix L)

    How about some pictures of the pass side of the engine block?

    edit: also the head is probably from 1960 with the B 4 0 casting date
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2010
  16. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    The F505L is on the machined pad to the left of the dizzy.


    The only thing I can make out down there is the GM4 E18. And the "GM4" part may or may not be correct. It's really hard to make out due to grime and the starter being in the way. I can't see any numbers.


    I can't see any numbers here. Doesn't mean they're not there though.


    This is correct. I started this thread after some doubts in another. See, I went to remove and block off my oil filter in preperation for swapping the factory intake and exhaust for an offy two pot and factory split exhaust manifold. The fittings in the block for the oil filter lines were not the size folks suggested they should be (mine were 1/2"NPT instead of 1/8"NPT). Somebody suggested (Roddin Iron) I should be careful as the 1/2"NPT fittings suggested a full flow oil system and removing the filter would be very bad and interrupt oil flow resulting in blowing the rear main seal or worse. So I got the numbers to check and see what I had for sure. I posted the numbers in the other thread and started this thread with a better title to get some good answers (which I'm getting, thanks!).


    I've heard that they could be vette heads and I've also heard that the 848 designates replacement heads. I'm not sure.


    Jack,
    I can't find any of my numbers there, but thanks. I found the head numbers on another site. I can't remember which now, I've been on a bunch looking up numbers. But it said the same thing, 56 235 head.


    PM inbound, thanks a bunch for the help!


    Thanks squirrel. The L suffix was something I couldn't find any info on. Here's a pic...

    [​IMG]
     
  17. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    For those that don't know, the vast majority of squirrel's thousands of posts are helping other guys. I know he's helped me a bunch. And he's never been wrong.

    So I can be pretty sure what I've got is a '58 261 with a '56 235 head. I'm pretty excited to find this out. Bigger is always better. And this makes a lot of sense. This truck is ten times faster than my '53 Bel Air, even taking into consideration lower hp numbers from the earlier 235's and my old Bel Air's powerglide. This truck was too fast to be a 235. And this goes perfectly with what I want my '55 2nd series, King Of Trucks, to be.
     
  18. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    Are there 2 vertical cast bars above the starter?? They are a good indication of a 261. The casting number is placed as mentioned before in small characters between a cast ridge and the pan flange in a space about 1/2 inch high. I had to scrub with a wire brush and use a flashlight to find them. They are between the fuel pump pad and the front cover plate. Not at all easy to see.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2010
  19. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    It does have the captain bars by the starter. I've read that some 235's had these as well. According to squirrel, the numbers indicate 261. I take anything squirrel says as gospel. :D
     
  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,948

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My info is only as good as the 50 year old book I got it from :)

    Sounds like you have a neat engine in there! glad I could help you figure it out
     
  21. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    Yes, there is a wealth of knowledge there. According to what I have found, 1954 325's were the only ones that might have the bars. Look on the other side of the engine up near top center of the block and see if there is another set of bars. http://www.1954advance-design.com/Web images/261-engine/index.htm
     
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,948

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Also look on the driver side of the block for the larger oil line fittings that give away a 261
     
  23. roddinron
    Joined: May 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,676

    roddinron
    Member

    That's good to hear, glad you didn't plug those holes.
    You said in your other thread-

    " I don't even know what or who to listen to as far as which is better (full flow mod like yours vs. factory bypass filter like mine). But I have to say, the factory style is for sure much less labor intensive than changing. And it was run on a whole bunch of cars for a long time, some of which are still on the road today. Like my truck, lol. :D"

    Maybe your truck lasted this long at least partially because of that full flow filter.
    Anyway, glad you're getting it figured out.
     
  24. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    It is indeed a neat engine. The perfect combo for an inline as far as I'm concerned. Trying to ID this engine started out totally by accident. I was removing the bypass oil filter and blocking it off just before swapping factory intake and exhaust for two carbs and split exhaust. Somebody read where I posted the oil filter fittings on my engine were 1/2" instead of 1/8". And you know the rest of the story from this thread.

    Squirrel, you're an asset to the hamb! I appreciate all the help you've given me! You're the best! I owe you. :D
     
  25. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,399

    6inarow
    Member

  26. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    Yeah, for sure. More power from higher displacement! Higher compression from the 235 head! More power from the higher compression! More power gained from mods vs. a 235! Two carbs and a split exhaust (which I already have and am about to install) will make this a killer fun street engine! :D
     
  27. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    I meant 235^.
     
  28. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,951

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    1953 Powerglide blocks had the "II" on the passenger side also. I've owned two of them.
     
  29. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    Interesting. We'll add that to the file. All I had to go by was that link. Thanks.
     
  30. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 863

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    Don't plug those oil ports!!!!! I think you've got a 261 there as others have stated. I have a '54 Powerglide block and it does not have the "Captains bars" on it. I believe the only 235 blocks that had the bars were the '53 'glide motors and that was so that a mechanic could tell by looking whether it was a full pressure block or a '53 babbit pounder. After that, as far as I know, the Captains bars were only used on the 261's.

    Also, the "848" head is the one to have. It first appeared in 1956 but became the replacement head for all the 18-bolt head 235's (going clear back to the '53 'glide motor) including the 235 Corvettes. The 261 guys use it because it gives a higher compression ratio than the stock 261 heads.

    Congrats!!!
     

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