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COE COE Picture thread (imported from main board)

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Duration, Oct 30, 2007.

  1. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,074

    phat rat
    Member

    vintagehotrods, I think those columns were used until they went to the dimmer on the column. It seems like I have gotten them out of vans as new as early 80's. I misspoke when I said the column was more upright. That should have said the steering box is more upright. I've corrected that

    willysbill, sorry at this time the rear isn't for sale. Yes it is out of a C-30 dually. I just bought a dually with 4.56's and am waiting to see if I want a little less gear for it. It has a Gear Vendor unit so I may be fine with the 4.56 in which case I'll sell the 3.73. I think shipping would be a killer though even if you have a shipping agent in Ca.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2010
  2. LOWFOMOCO
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 419

    LOWFOMOCO
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I picked up an 83 C30 a few weeks ago with plans of building a COE. I borrowed a friends truck to haul it...It looks like I have already sold some of the body parts so now I am tryin to find some 51-52 Ford COE sheetmetal with some good patina. Let me know if you have some layin around...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. 53olds
    Joined: Sep 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,873

    53olds
    Member

    Coe's are really cool! Lot's of them in this thread. I love the metalic red 50 chevy coe(flipper caps,whites,etc.)
     
  4. inkmunky
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 537

    inkmunky
    Member

    I don't know if this is kosher but i'll give it a shot since it's still on topic here...

    Does anyone have any pics of the engine bays with the engine in them? I see a lot of mid mount motors

    Maybe interior pics with the doors open?

    Thanks guys!
     
  5. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,074

    phat rat
    Member

    lofomoco, that's a nice looking truck to scrap. Or does it just look decent in pics. Unless your building a flatbed car hauler or are putting a sleeper on it your going to have one heck of a long bed. A regular cab 8' box frame gives you room for about a 10' bed. The 48 Chev I put together years ago was on a regular cab 3/4T frame. I had a shortbox bed plus 40" semi sleeper on it. There was a 500" Cad under the sleeper. I brought this 85 back from Az. in Dec to use as my tow rig because I wanted to get away from the computor controlled stuff. It's 454 4 spd w/Gear Vendor OD
     

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2010
  6. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,074

    phat rat
    Member


    If you put the motor in front you don't have any real foot/leg room. Think of driving many miles with one foot virtually on the top of the other. That's the reason for the motor behind the cab. I even saw one where the gas pedal was on the left side of the steering column
     
  7. LOWFOMOCO
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 419

    LOWFOMOCO
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah my pics are on the "good side"...The body has some issues but it is all there. Mine is a 454 with an A/T as well. Somebody stole the hood, battery, carb, air cleaner, and the plug wires. The guy I bought it from just wanted it gone. So here I go...on to the next project...
     
  8. 36 ROKIT
    Joined: Oct 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,568

    36 ROKIT
    Member

    Once again, very nice work, Danny.

    Post some pics on the earlier metal-shaping thread. They will receive more
    appreciation there......
     
  9. vintagehotrods
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,705

    vintagehotrods
    Member

    LOFOMOCO, that truck sure looks good in the pictures! But then that's why you can't tell the whole story from pics. Looks like a great rust free foundation for your project though.

    phat rat, thanks for the great rear end ID link. Do you think I should do much other than pull the rear cover, change the grease and run it after I do the brakes? I hope it doesn't need drums, they look spendy.

    Another question I have is about the wheels that I can use on the 1974 chassis. I bought the aluminum wheels off a 1980's dually which has "hub concentric" center holes but I haven't tried them on yet. They supposedly are different that my 1974 hubs that have plates on the rim under the lug nuts that I won't use on the aluminum wheels. Will I have to change studs or anything else to run them?

    For the steering box issue, El polacko sent me some pics of when he used a mid 80s half ton Chevy Van vertical steering box, center link and idler arm. He said he had to narrow the center link four inches. I think that will work for me so I'll have to do some junkyard shopping.

    I don't know how they drove these trucks in the old days, I think you need size 8 or smaller feet to even try! Without the engine in front and a flat firewall there is plenty of room.
     
  10. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,074

    phat rat
    Member

    I don't know about the wheels. This is the first dually I've had. I think I'd want to be sure of the bearing also. Your looking at somewhere around $125 for drums. The Eagle Alloy rims on mine are not "hub concentric" but rather "lugnut concentric". Here's an example of how a floor in a COE can have plenty of room. You can also see the upper steering u-joint I refered to earlier.
     

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  11. vintagehotrods
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,705

    vintagehotrods
    Member

    I think that might be an issue for me because I think my chassis is "lugnut concentric" and the wheels are "hub concentric". I'll need to talk to some truck salvage or truck wheel and tire businesses to see what they know.
     
  12. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,074

    phat rat
    Member

    All you need are lug nuts with a sleeve??? that goes into the wheel hole. That's the way this dually is that I have.
     
  13. 348tripower
    Joined: Sep 19, 2004
    Posts: 328

    348tripower
    Member

    Speaking of easy connection and foot room, I put a Wizard Streer Clear unit in my Coe. I found a deal on one and snapped it up. I have a van box but I opted to go to what I saw as the easier route for me. My Coe is a 47 dodge and the floor was very flat originally. I do have the engine behind the cab because I wanted the cab as low as I could get it and still retain driveability. I am in the process of body work now and hope to be on the road the first of May.
     
  14. kooscoe
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 171

    kooscoe
    Member

    Nice Ford COE You have. I have used A 1986 Chevy Van steering box and 1974 tilt nova steering colum. The colum I have shortend 5" The steering box is nice upride. I conected the colum with 3 U-joint to the box. In the floor is A bearing to hold the steeringshaft. I have A lot of legroom:D
    I did move the firewall 5" to the front to get more leg room. I am 6'6"tal.
    Have fun Building.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    See more photos on http://rides.webshots.com/album/305656139MAggzN
     
  15. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,074

    phat rat
    Member

    I'll have to scan some pics of the COE I was building. I had it low enough to go through a 7' door. The front of the cab was about 2" above the frame and I had about 6" clearance under the steps. The reason I inlet my steering box was to do away with the need for 3 joints. While I was building mine I heard of a guy doing a Ford that had 8 joints. I wouldn't want to drive something like that.
     
  16. carbuilder
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 982

    carbuilder
    Member

    Some more corner radius work on the 48 Ford Danny.
     

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  17. vintagehotrods
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,705

    vintagehotrods
    Member

    The van steering box looks best for me and it shouldn't be to hard to find one. Is there any difference between the 1/2-3/4-1 ton boxes? I had looked at them once but I never thought to use the entire center link to make it work. Now if I can still find a keyless van column. I used have a couple but let them go at a swap meet. :(

    How much ground clearance do you have at the engine oil pan? I was thinking about 10", maybe 2" less if I use shorter springs or dropped spindles. Are there any issues caused by welding the motor mount and trans crossmember to the frame rails? I see the factory was pretty careful about mounting their crossmembers to just the top or bottom of the C-channel of the frame with rivits.

    I would like to use the entire GM hydro-vac power brake master cylinder/pedal****embly to keep it all as built originally. What did you guys use?

    I just measured my overall height and it's just under 7' right now without an engine/trans and with stock suspension.
     
  18. koolit
    Joined: Jun 27, 2009
    Posts: 35

    koolit
    Member
    from cen cal

    At the march meets [​IMG] Sweet
     
  19. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,670

    Baron
    Member

    Started work on the 1989 1 ton dually chassis that is going under my 47 COE a few months ago. This will be a mid-engine( frt of the engine will be just behind the seat riser),350 Corvette powered,Turbo 400 ,14 bolt rear end,114"wheel base dually pick up. I will make an 8 ft pickup bed that will be somewhat taller and wider then a stock pick up bed to keep the proportions correct. I stepped the frame just in front of the bed to drop it three inches to go along with the 3 inch dropped spindles. I will most likely start my own thread on this as I get a little further along. No real good shots yet, but here are a couple pics of the chassis I took recently. The last pic is the Cab that will be mounted on this chassis. FUN!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. kustom66cat
    Joined: Aug 11, 2007
    Posts: 157

    kustom66cat
    Member

    this is ssooooo cool. Art deco rolling art!
     
  21. kustom66cat
    Joined: Aug 11, 2007
    Posts: 157

    kustom66cat
    Member

    dig those side pipes
     
  22. kustom66cat
    Joined: Aug 11, 2007
    Posts: 157

    kustom66cat
    Member

    I think the trailer might be cooler than the cab on this one
     
  23. 28dreyer
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,166

    28dreyer
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Here's one I spotted at a tractor pull a couple years ago
     

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  24. Leon
    Joined: Jul 22, 2003
    Posts: 361

    Leon
    Member

    I like the tilt cab on that!
     
  25. vintage56
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 485

    vintage56
    Member

    now that's kewl
    JML
     
  26. harrydude
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 96

    harrydude
    Member
    from ab


    quick question.........do you use weld thru primer??

    killer werk.........

    now I want one:D
     
  27. genti1ma
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 29

    genti1ma
    Member
    from Michigan

    Our old shop truck, believe this was taken in the 50s
     

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  28. Tom Farrell
    Joined: Feb 25, 2010
    Posts: 6

    Tom Farrell
    Member
    from Pompey, NY

    Hi Kooscoe, Thanks!
    We're using a 9' long pick-up box which we fabricated.
    With the wheels, we're going to do negative offset wheels to get them in under the fenders. Will post new pictures soon.
     
  29. carbuilder
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 982

    carbuilder
    Member

    We are getting back on the 48 COE in the shop. The front window channel is rotten & the replacement the owner brought in is marginal so we decide to make a new one Danny.
     

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  30. gmans356
    Joined: Mar 1, 2010
    Posts: 93

    gmans356
    Member
    from MDR

    This is Henry the hay hauler..he belongs to a friend of mine and he will be mine shortly...Henry has it going on and was well built by Mark....
     

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