Hi Guys, I've got another question for all....I am just about to start the 216 to 235 swap on my 50 Chevy, and plan on using the original 3 on the tree set-up. But I have a couple of questions, the rear of the trans leaks (quite a bit) Patricks told me that this is a simple bronze sleeve that can be replaced-is it really that easy?? Also does this trans have synchros?? I have noticed that going into first, if the car is not at a complete stop or if the RPM's are too high, the trans wil grind. Is this normal???? I would like to know if this is something that should be re-built or if it is normal considering that this is a 60 year old trans?? I love my car and have lofty plans for it, but like everybody else I need to get the mechanicals right before I start on the "pretty" work. Also if the trans is going to the dogs does anybody have a good lead on one or is it a simple rebuild that most any trans shop can complete with relative ease?? I would hate to put a questionable trans back in the car with a new motor, PG rear and torque tube-just to have to rip it back out in a couple of months. As always any and all help is greatly appreciated!!!!
I also have a 1950 chevy. Not sure about the leakage but my trans never grinds except for first gear because it is not synchronized. Maybe if your trans is growling in 2 and 3 then you may just need to adjust your clutch because those old transmissions are indestructable most times.
If you ever have to take out your trans then it is pretty simple. I just took mine out to install a new clutch , flywheel etc. There is a plate inside the car right over the transmission. when she is all unbolted it comes out throught the floor. pretty wild.
2-3 works perfect, it's just when going into first gear while moving. I guess I need to learn the art of double clutching...any good advice?? Also anybody ever take out the rear most seal on the trans, it's coming out with the motor so it's the best time to do any and all repairs. Thanks again!!
First and reverse are non synchro. AT a stop, put it in 2nd then shift to 1st. You'll need to learn to double clutch and match engine rpm to be able to down shift into 1st.
There should be a paper seal where the torque tube coupling/bell meets the trans. Yours could be bad and or the bolts aren't torqued to spec. Patrick's would know more than me though. Have you looked at your shop manual? It should have and exploded view of the trans where you can see the sleeve Patrick's was referring to as well as how to replace it. If you don't have a shop manual, cough up the $20. You'll be glad you did. You MIGHT find some info in one of the online manuals at tocmp.com... but nothing beats a copy in your hands.
also if you push the clutch in soon enough to let the idle go way down before you make a quick stop, you should be able to shift. i clutch down hills too, unless i want the engine to slow me a little(engine brake).
I would go a head and replace the bronze bushing. If it is bad it will vibrate when you let off the gas, which will cause the U joint bolts to come loose. As far as a leak make sure you get all the gaskets right at the U joint housing. Also make sure your U joint bolts are tight, can't tell you how many times I found loose ones back in the day.
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