March Hares - or Tortises...and BANGERS!

Yep, a friend of mine used them on his record holding Banger roadster at Bonneville and they ran very good. --TV PS_ He ran 2

 

Bigcheese- do you have any pics?

TV- which did he use, the Harley or the Suzuki (and again, pics would be great)?

 

This is the only picture I'm aware of. I believe that's the motorcycle carb'd engine at the bottom:



-Dave

 

Th bottom motor is running Hilborn fuel injection. I would think whatever carbs went on the 80 inchHDs would work if you use two.

 

Well! Am I embar***ed or what? I always thought that was the motorcycle carb'd engine.

So I guess the correct answer was: No, I don't, I've only read about it.

-Dave

 

Dave,

Not trying to hijack the Banger meet, but do you have this entire article? if you do can you can and send it to me?...working on a '65 Falcon 170 and would love to pull some ideas out of this for my motor!

 

Hey GZ, I have to say I was looking for banger powered cars when I was at autorama and yours really stuck out to me, I love that car. I'm glad you got it in last minute. I know the guy with the blue tudor but for the life of me can't remember his name. I saw his car on the road last year and I was hooked. Glad you guys brought your cars, it was great to see them.

 

I'm sorry I don't have any pics, I'll try and get some. I do know they were off of the 80 types. He had to run very low fuel pressure with good flow. He set the record in street roadster. He is now running a blower on his banger with a big two barrel making huge power.--TV PS he ran the Harley's.

 

Are any of the Bangeren familiar with the Continental Y112? I could pick a dis***embled one up right now for virtually nothing, and I’ve always kind of wanted a Red Seal flathead.

They’re very small (the “112" refers to the displacement), but performance seems comparable to a Model T engine: Peak horsepower is 37.8@2800rpm (versus 22@1600rpm); peak torque is 87.0lb/ft@1600rpm (versus 83lb/ft@900rpm).

Might be cool in a cyclecar type build? Or hopped up with a single Holley 94, a header, a milled head, and a re-ground camshaft? Or just put together and hung on a stand in my garage?

-Dave

 

Checking in - Great thread this month! -

 

Used to run 2 of the early Linkert(?) br*** carbs on a T- ran ok and looked real pretty when I polished them every other year!

 

BCCHOPIT I think your right about the old farmer behind the barn, the good news is the bores and bearings look pretty good, and thats good to know about the adj lifters cause I've got a set waiting to go in along with new valves and guides and the 5.5 head, I have a sickness that makes it very hard for me to stop when I pull something apart but I now have another motor that I plan to build which I havent even seen yet ( its killing me), I should get it on monday.

 

Got a buddy here in central Illinois that runs a pair of '77 Harley sportster carbs on his banger with intake runners up over a Super Winney head. He had to give up the Winney this summer because he had been running 2 head gaskets for the last couple of years and one finally gave out. Now he's running a Snyder head. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. He's been running the Harley carbs for years along with a chevy 5 spd behind with an open drive conversion. He loves them. It is a quick car and blows down the highway. Luke

 

Don't forget the bigger bump stick

 

I just got off the phone with Taylor Engine and they are still very much alive and kicking.
In fact I was quoted a 3-4 month lead time for a B insert rebuild.

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I was able to score some more Banger Hop Up parts. The Cragar intake is for a D Winfield and the ports where it meets the block are 1 3/4" dia.

Edit: I just cc'd the Cyclone head at 110 cc's. That makes it @ 8:1 comp ratio.
Looks like I have a head that will test the babbit bearings in my engine

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Hey this banger is in a buddy of mine 28-29 AA that has a bunch of mix matched parts. THis motor doesnt have a oil return pipe, is that a broke off fuel pump. Is it a b motor? there are no numbers on the Id pad. Can you feelas help me ID it? thanks

 

Yep that's a B!

 

Thanks!!! So is the B any better?

 

Depends on who you ask and what you are doing with it. If it has a counterballanced crank, then it definitely has some great advantages, but not all B's had one.

 

The B engine is better because the Main and rod bearing journals are bigger. The cam has more lift and duration and the head has a smaller combustion chamber giving it a higher compression ratio.

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Quick question - I'm bolting my engine back together and need some advice about the longer head studs that also hold the water gooseneck. The studs are 5-3/4" long, with the aluminum gooseneck and the studs fully seated in the block, the nuts are only engaging about half of their threads. In other words, the studs need to be about 1/4" longer to use the full length of the nuts.

My thoughts are:

1. Don't screw the studs in until they bottom out - leaves about 5/8" of the stud in the block - not sure if this is good or bad - this might make it difficult to torque them down

2. Buy some 6" grade 8 bolts and bolt it - the only bad I see here is that I risk stripping out the block and the bolts don't match the studs, so I'd want covers

Thanks in advance

 

Counterbore / spot face the water neck deeper by 1/4"

Or, mill off a 1/4" from the bottom of the Gooseneck

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Studs need only to be engaged 1 1/2 times the diameter, 1/2 inch bolt would be 3/4. A stud should never be bottomed out when installed, back off at least 1/2 turn.

 

He will still need longer studs / shorter Gooseneck to get the right amount of thread engagement in the block. There is no mention of washer under the nuts either. If you are using an aluminum goosneck you need washers too.

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Washers included in that length requirement. Thanks for the advice. I like the idea of taking a 1/4" off the bottom.

At least no one suggested I go to Autozone and ask for a stud stretcher! I can always count on the HAMB for the good stuff.

 

Yesterday I called a local NAPA store to inquire about some .015 gasket material and was told they only stocked metric sizes.

 

I have all of our engineers at work convinced that we use ka****r valves in the machine shop.

 

One of the maintenance guys told my supervisor that they had to change the combobulator valve out. Hook, line and sinker - he's a little dinghy at times...

 

^^^^^^^^^^Ya, It just sold on ebay for $54.00.^^^^^^^^^^

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