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Fresh nailhead rebuild, water in my oil

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by nail-head, Mar 12, 2010.

  1. nail-head
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 293

    nail-head
    Member

    So, I've got some water in my oil. Quite a bit of water when it gets hot.

    The motor has maybe 350 miles on it. The heads and block were supposedly magnafluxed before they were machined and checked out OK. I've got a brand new timing chain cover.

    I'm trying to think of all the ways I could get water in my oil, some are obvious and general to all engines, some might be specific to nailheads. Any help from you nailhead experts would save me some trouble and be greatly appreciated.

    I'd hate to pull the heads and disassemble the block to have them magnafluxed only to discover the problem was something else, something easier and cheaper.

    Here's my list of possible problems:

    1. blown head gasket (very unlikely)
    2. cracked head(s)
    3. cracked block
    4. cracked timing chain cover (unlikely, it's brand new)
    5. leaking past head bolts that protrude into water jackets
    6. leaking past timing cover bolts that protrude into water jackets

    Anything I'm missing?

    I'm thinking I'll pull the valve covers and oil pan this weekend, leave water in the radiator and pressurize it. Maybe I'll be able to identify the source of the leak that way. Maybe not.

    Have I run it long enough to worry about replacing bearings damaged from antifreeze?
     
  2. Nick32vic
    Joined: Jul 17, 2003
    Posts: 3,064

    Nick32vic
    Member

    that sucks. I can't offer any help but ill bring it back to the top for ya. Hope its nothing too serious.
     
  3. nail-head
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 293

    nail-head
    Member

    Thanks.

    I've heard the timing chain cover can be a source of problems, but again, mine's brand new.

    I'm hoping the pressure test trick reveals the source of the leak. I guess I'd rather replace the timing chain cover than a head or the block...but that damn cover was $500.00.

    And I'd like to know I don't have to replace my bearings. I'm hoping zman or dualquad or one of the legendary nailhead experts around here have some insight and advice.
     
  4. holeshot
    Joined: Sep 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,519

    holeshot
    BANNED
    from Waxahachie

    NAIL HEAD...stop driving or stand to lose your engine. the antifreez isn't your only problem, water alone in your cylinders can bend piston rods. unfortunatly the heads will have to come off. I truely wish you the best...POP.
     
  5. stude_trucks
    Joined: Sep 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,752

    stude_trucks
    Member

    Sounds like you really need to break it down. Not going to discover much by just pulling the covers and pan. If you are lucky, it is maybe just a head gasket or something like that. Do any bolts go thourhg the waterjackets of nailheads? If so, maybe needs the threads sealed.
     
  6. nail-head
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 293

    nail-head
    Member

    I stopped driving it when I discovered the problem.

    I've already checked the torque on the head bolts. They're fine.

    If pressurizing the cooling system reveals the source of the leak, I think I can possibly save a lot of trouble if, for example, the problem is the timing chain cover and not a head or the block. I posted my list of potential problems at the top and just wanted to make sure it's exhaustive, that there isn't some quirky nailhead problem I don't know about.

    My plan is to try the pressure test first and see what I find. If it doesn't give me a definitive answer, I'll pull the heads and have them magnafluxed. If they're OK, I'll have the block magnafluxed. If it's OK, I don't know what to do next.

    And I'm wondering, if my block is OK, should I replace all the main and rod bearings anyway? Would a couple of hundred miles with water in the oil be enough to eat away the babbit on the bearing?
     
  7. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    that's where I'd go first, there are a couple bolts that'll leak on the timing cover, but it's usually to the outside world.

    definitely go with the test first. and let us know if you find anything. I'd probably pull the heads anyway. and check everything real good. you made a list that is the most likely culprits.

    did you have hardened seats installed?

    but pressurize and let us know...
     
  8. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,916

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Not real familiar with nailheads, but would not the intake gasket allow water to enter the pan.
     
  9. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,238

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    In my experience, 9/10 times this is due to an unseated intake manifold or wrong intake gaskets. If you had the heads decked, there's a possibility that intake/gasket fitment is now off enough that water and oil passages are open to each other, maybe even just a litlte bit. I use RTV on the threads of all intake bolts because I'm not consistently smart enough to just do the ones that need it.

    You say you had the block and heads magnafluxed, but how much do you trust your builder? I hate to ask a question like that, but you do have a leak...

    I think it's just water and oil, not cylinder pressure that you're dealing with. But if you think there's a possibility that combustion gases are getting past the head gaskets and into the cooling system, this tool is THE TOOL for finding that out. I hang out with guys that race turbo cars and those high cylinder pressures can really get stuff moving around. They swear by this deal. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7001006_0254158357
     
  10. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    Not familiar with Nailheads are you? :rolleyes:

    [​IMG]

    The intake doesn't have the same problems that the SBC and the like have.
     
  11. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,750

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    If you can access a tool called an "Air -Evac", or equivalent, they are quite handy for checking and tracking down a leak................you can hear the area that the vacuum is being pulled through, (using a section of hose, in a valve cover, for example).....................Happy hunting, and don't tear into it too far yet!!!!!!!
     
  12. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,443

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    Id say timing cover first, but dont let it sit with waterie oil,if you cant fix it this wekend drain the water and oil, refil with oil and new filter and run for a real short time to flush the bearings out (no water in the engine and only till the oil pressure light goes out plus say 8 seconds ), after its fixed you should do an oil change after its been run to hot. Water wont eat the bearing shells but will eat the crank if you let it sit for weeks.
     
  13. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,238

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    No, apparently not. Sorry for trying to help.
     
  14. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,857

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Sounds like a good idea to pull the pan and pressurize it, might be able to see it if it's the timing cover. Lippy
     
  15. JAWS
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,848

    JAWS
    Member


    Don't appologize for offering help. Never a bad thing to try and help. Your advice was good, maybe not correct for this engine, but still good help.

    Scott was just being his friendly self......he'll get over it.:D
     
  16. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    It's cool, that's one of the things with them that I find to be a joy, I hate doing intakes on most other engines. It's a PITA.
     
  17. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    LOL, that why I used the :rolleyes:, not being a dick, this time. :D
     
  18. JAWS
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,848

    JAWS
    Member

    You're still an angry dick, but I'm used to it.....
     
  19. You didn't say how it was running. If it is missing, you may have water in a cylinder. Pull the plugs and see what they look like. I,d be checking the head gaskets, to make sure they are the correct ones for that engine. If you still have the packaging for the gasket set check the #s.
     
  20. LeadSledMerc
    Joined: Nov 29, 2003
    Posts: 4,106

    LeadSledMerc
    Member

    WOW, you're an "angry dick"...sounds like I'd take that as a compliment!! :D

    Like they said, pressure test it, then go from there.
     
  21. JAWS
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,848

    JAWS
    Member

    Ok, how about he's just angry.....and he is a dick sometimes....:D
     
  22. hotrod32@usfamily.net
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 251

    hotrod32@usfamily.net
    Member
    from st paul

  23. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    what? what about the intake?
     
  24. LeadSledMerc
    Joined: Nov 29, 2003
    Posts: 4,106

    LeadSledMerc
    Member

    Wait a minute, that one slipped right past me...$500 for a timing cover?:eek:
    You're joking right???
     
  25. water in the oil is a common occurance in diesel engines. Wet sleeves have rubber O rings and electrolisis will pinhole sleeves. The same procedure to find the culprit will work on any engine. What I do is remove the oil pan and fill the cooling system with water and pressurize the radiator. you can soon see where the water comes from. OldWolf
     
  26. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    Paul Boucher had some new ones made up. Pretty nice too. Russ Martin sold them for him as well. Good original ones are getting more expensive and harder to find.
     
  27. LeadSledMerc
    Joined: Nov 29, 2003
    Posts: 4,106

    LeadSledMerc
    Member

    granted they're probably nice...but 500 bucks???
    You can still find them on epay a hell of a lot cheaper and in decent shape. Hell, you can still find a complete engine for that as a donor for the cover! Guess I spend my money differently.

    Any ways, back to what this thread was about...let us know how you make out with the pressure test.
     
  28. nail-head
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 293

    nail-head
    Member

    It's running fine. No misses, plugs are clean.

    I just gave up on getting the pan off tonight. Don't see how I'm gonna do it without lifting the engine and I won't have a hoist until tomorrow.

    While I was under the car, I did notice the bolt that passes through the timing chain cover and the ac/alt bracket has water dripping from it, oily water, when I backed that bolt out water came running out. Could a failure to put some sealer on the threads of the bolt explain the water problem?

    I'm tempted to just seal that bolt and put some fresh oil in it and see what happens.
     
  29. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,443

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    yes. if it goes through an oil area to a pressurised water area it should have something like permatex on it
     
  30. LeadSledMerc
    Joined: Nov 29, 2003
    Posts: 4,106

    LeadSledMerc
    Member

    It sounds like you may have found the culpret.
    I use Ultra Black sealer on the threads of every timing cover bolt and head bolt, and have never had a oil/water or leakage problem on the many Nailheads I've built and run.
    If you didn't get the threads real dry, clean and degreased(de-antifreezed) before you sealed the bolt, it will probably still leak and give ou the problem. Let us know how you make out.
     

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