I have been trying to get this old 216 fired up to see what i have to work with . It is being stubborn, i have a new battery 6 volt , cleaned and checked the point gap .022 to .024 . I have fire up to the plug, pulled the plugs and cleaned them and reset gap @ .o35. I am not to worried at this time about the fuel pump , i have no gas tank in the car so i am just feeding the carb to see if i can get it to even run. It cranks over good and seems to act as if it wants to fire but just wont. The ingintion (key) is in the correct position for starting ( i checked this by seeing what position gave me 6 v at the coil). I have even fed each cylinder with a shot of starting fluid/ then tried a little gas. Still nothing, im sure ill get it soon . It has been setting for a long time i believe. I just want to get the engine to run for a min or so , that way i know what im working with and im not waisting money ordering parts for this 216. Any ideas or tricks lol thanks
Okay, you're getting spark at the sparkplug every time the engine turns over, correct? What about the timing? Have you checked it?
Ye i can crank it over and im getting spark at the plug . No i havent checked the timing on this . I really dont know much about these older engines so .......... I have original shop manual for the car . but i havent taken it that far . The guy i bought it form said it ran fine in the past but it has just been setting for so long .The gas tank rusted from the inside out . So i have to order new along with a sending unit.
You need a steady supply of gas, just pouring some down the carb isn't the best thing in the world for what you're doing. Secure a gallon gas can or a big lawn mower tank and pipe it into the fuel pump and you should get it to fire, since it already is trying. Bob
Run a compression test Those engines have a fiber center in the timing gear which can shear if the valve train sludges up (from the old non-detergent oils), or, in your case, maybe the rockershafts/valves froze up enough to shear the gear. If you don't have a compression gauge, pull the valve cover and see if the rocker arms are moving - usually the gear shears totally and does not 'skip' timing. .......Opps! Never mind! You say you're getting spark at the plugs, that means the cam is turning the distributor. Run a compression check anyway....it won't hurt
Your point setting seems a little wide. Try .016 - .018 and, make sure the rubbing block on the point arm is right on top of the lobe, not off to one side or the other of the dist. cam lobe.
I use starting fluid on hard to start engines. It gets the engine running so the fuel pump can catch up. If it won't run on starting fluid, I would suggest doing a compression check.
Thank everyone , ive done everything stated above but compression check . Seems ive lent my compression checker out and ill have to reclaim it . I do appreciate all the input.
You checked the timing, too? You check it just like every other engine. The specs should be in your manual.
compression check, best solution, otherwise put a little oil down each cylinder to bring up your compression
Should be a hole above the starter with an arrow that points to a dot on the flywheel.Line that up and see if your rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug.
Try .016" gap on points and use new plugs @ .035". Many times used plugs build up a coating that can't be seen and will not fire. Especially, if they have been fuel soaked. It's happened to me more than once. Good luck!
Well ive been at it all day , still not started but i have solved my fuel issue . I went to town and bought a Airtex part# E8011 6volt electric pump 5psi with filter , its installed and it feeding fuel up to the carb nicely.The shop said i didnt need to regulate this it simply replaces a manual fuel pump ? I removed the original fuel pump and replaced with block off plate. I bought a rebuild kit for the Carter YF (964S) is stamped on the webbing with G27. The kit i bought is TOMCO part# 5153 C, this is a bit akward . Not a hard carb to work on but im not sure if someone hasnt been into it before . I think im missing parts ? Items #24 (weight)- check ball and # 25 (ball) -pump check. My carb did not have these in it when i disassebled it . Also Not 100% about how to set the float since the instructions that came with the kit doesnt show anything later than 1963. Rather than a needle and seat it has a pin with a spring on it that seats it . Im kinda stuck here and need some expert advice on how to get this carb back together the right way . Also i goofed i should have taken pics during the breakdown and i didnt . I had (3) springs on the pump lifter assy, i only see 2 used in the instructions and found a website showing a instruction procedure that it only shows 2 as well? Im adding some pics of what im working with now . The extra spring and the thin steel washer (spacer) i have no idea where they go . The 3rd spring came off the pump lifter assy i know it was double springed at the top , but why would they do that ? If some one out there knows how to help me please do . Thanks very much.
With your hand down tight on the top of the carburetor crank it. There should be a lot of suction there. If there is a lot of steady suction it's not a stripped timing gear. Next step; Compression test. No gauge use your finger. Hold a spark plug wire about a half inch from motor block, spark should blue while cranking.
If the fuel pump was the problem, it would've at least fired with the starter fluid. Same thing with the carb. It still sounds like timing to me. Get a timing light and check that, then check compression.
Also, if you haven't got any of the accessories on, you can slap a 12V battery in it temporarily for extra cranking power.
What HEATHEN said; 12v jumper cables direct to starter, jumper wire from there to coil terminal............
I have done what youve said and i have a good spark, and the compression is fairly strong pops my thumb out of the hole pretty good. Suction on the intake , i have the carb off now rebuilding it . Thanks
This is what i have , pics of what i believe is a arrow (V) stamped on the flywheel behind the pointer of the bellhousing. With nothing moved here are pics of the distributor cap and then cap removed. Im not sure about the firing order of the cap or the cylinders of the engine . I havent found it in my manual ? What is the cylinders #s from the front of car to the rear ? what is the cap order ?
You need to be sure you are on TDC on number 1. You could be 180 out by the looks of the rotor in the distributor. If you can turn the motor over by hand while another holds a finger over the spark plug opening in cylinder number 1. when it comes up on top dead center the finger should be pushed off by the compressed air being forced out of the open spark plug hole. Watch the pointer at that moment and get it on the ball bearing. The rotor wants to be pointing more towards the five o clock position. Then wire the plugs going clock wise from there. 1 5 3 6 2 4 Number 1 is first cylinder in front of engine. then count back from there 2 3 4 5 6 is the last cylinder. Good luck! Dom
I am sure it is the timing. I have a 50 chevy with a 216 and every now and then the distributor spins. Dont give up its gotta be simple
OK now; #1 is the front cyl. Spark plugs still out, crank it thru slowly by 'bumping' the starter until you feel pressure on #1. With the spark plugs out you should be able to turn the motor with the fan if the fan belt is tight. At that point the timeing mark(s) will appear in the window on the bell housing. Jocky it back and forth by turning the fan and finding the timing mark. Now you are on Compression stroke with piston in firing position. You can't determine that by looking at the distributor at this time. Ignore any reference to that. The timeing TDC mark will look like a ball bearing imprinted in the flywheel. When you think you have it at TDC, take a picture of the timing mark and pointer and the distributor.
Just went back out and redid my timing by hand . Your right i see the ballbearing (mark) in the flywheel . I am up on compression #1 and there is a arrow (V) and the rotor is at 5 oclock , now if i turn the motor clockwise (looking at front) the ball bearing mark is right after that arrow maybe a 1 inch or so but the rotor only moved so slightly. So with that being said and done i believe the timing is real close ? On the cap where do you start #1 for the plug wires? When looking at my cap in the pic they had it wired starting at the 6 oclock position being #1 then 5 3 6 2 4 clockwise from #1 Here are the pics , thanks again
#1 spark plug wire goes to the socket on the drstributor cap that is lined up with the rotor. Then follow with the rest of the wires in firing order.
Was just making sure , i thought this was all good . Well after i get the carb done ill be able to try this again . Im leaning more on the side of the fuel problem (tank & carb). So i have solved the fuel pump issue and im working on the carb as we speak. Nothing else left Fuel Air Fire which i should have all now.......................thanks
It looks like it was 180 out. I would do a couple of things. I would loosen the distributor so you can turn it a little clockwise. Get the two clips, that hold the cap down, parallel to the engine block. The rotor wants to be at or close to the 5 o clock location. Keep it loose enough to turn with some drag but not loose enough that it moves while trying to start the motor. I would put number 1 wire in that 5 o clock spot in the cap. While trying to start it you may need someone to turn the distributor slowly either clockwise or counter clockwise to see when it fires. That's if it doesn't fire off the first time you try.
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