Any fixes to a cracked sb starter bolt boss?

Starter must have worked lose and bounced enough to break the outside starter bolt boss on my SB. It's close to the frame rail and I'm pretty sure I have to pull the engine to get to it. My question is, can that small ammount of cast iron be welded and re-tapped? Or do I have to start looking for another block?

 

I had the same thing happen to a high nickel block of mine. I had it welded at work with high nickel rod. the welding looks like it took, but I couldn't tap it however due to the difference in materials. I drilled the hole all the way through and set up a bolt/nut for it. I have yet to see if it will work.

 

back in the 60's I had a 53 flat head and broke the bottom off of one of the waterpumps/motor mounts. Took it to an old blacksmith and he built it up with bronze and drilled new holes in it. I didn't have much hope for it holding but I ran it for a couple of years before selling the car. Might see if anyone can fill it with bronze then redrill it. Be sure to use the front brace for the starter that most people throw away.

 

Can you switch to a bell housing that is made for the starter to mount to it? It seems some were like that.

 

If you do find someone to weld it up, have them anchor a stud in the block. You don't want to be taking a fastener out of that hole again.

With a stick set up, the truck bellhousings will work fine and get the starter off the block. I always use them in favor of the aluminum ones.

Bob

 

Two great ideas! I'd do the stud idea if it's an auto

 

i have used the stud idea and it works. this problem proves the need for the strap that goes on the other end of starter to the block. they keep this from happening.

 

I'm going to see if a welder that I'm trying to contact will do the stud weld. It sounds so simple but yet it has to work. Thanks I'll keep you posted.

 

I've got a couple of pics of the break. Can a hardened (#8) 3/8-16 bolt be welded to cast iron? I think a stud is the answer if it can be done.

 

My neighbor got an engine out of a wreck. The starter had broken the holes. I cut the heads off a couple bolts and welded them in with nickel rod and it ran for a couple years like that until he got rid of it.

 

Check out these guys, They have done some amazing repairs with cast iron
www.lockns***ch.com

 

Had a similar thing happen and got it welded....we will see here soon if it takes! I just did a motor swap with the one that welded.

 

i had it done on a buick in the 70s..worked for years...drilled and taped.....done by an old time welder...

 

That used to be a common repair on 70s Chevys. If the car was hit in the front, the frame would buckle in, hitting the sterter, and breaking that boss. I welded them up for a couple salvage yards, probably did 50 of them. I would heat the area with a torch to a dull red, and stick weld it with cast iron rod, while it was hot. Build it up, and leave some extra material. Post heat again, and cool slowly. Grind it to shape, and using a drill jig I made using all three holes, I would drill and tap a new hole.

 

I use to run across this a lot in the 70's and 80's, I am ***uming you are talking about the outer bolt hole. we use to take a long nut, and drill the threads out to
the same depth as the block, then chamfer the block, and grind the nut until it fits the missing piece of the block, thread a starter bolt up in there and keep grinding the nut until the bolt doesn't rock at all, chamfer the nut so you have a nice v. weld with a high nickel rod, and make sure you use a support bracket on the nose of the starter never had one come back good luck

 

I've done that, ground a side of a bolt head flat so it would sit down, and not spin, nut on the other side.

 

the only problem with welding a stud in is if you ever run a 4 speed or any stick shift you will have to remove the ****** and belhousing whenever you need a starter, and if you have bad luck with a starter that could stop being fun real quick. automatics should slide right up, and if you have tight clearance like a control arm etc you may not be able to get it in

 

I,ve been using an engine for years that had a new boss brazed on,,,,it works great and has never given any trouble.
Also,,the process of heating the iron and welding works great as well.
Use whichever you think will work the best.

Tommy

 

I have also used br*** way back when, just been so long I had forgotten, but it
definetly worked

 

Looks like it might be in tight spot to braze or arc(welder prob have to decide that),anyhow, imho I would chamfer the broken piece and the block, preheat them and nickel weld it(arc) would be best.Thread a bolt in while tacking to make sure they match,after welding,run a tap in it to make sure threads are clean for new bolt.Need a lot of heat for brazing these parts....
good luck

 

It can be repaired...Since you have the broken part it will be even easier.
Grind a vee on the block and the broken part. Insert a stainless bolt in the remains of the hole.
Clamp it together.
Braze it !
The bronze will NOT stick to the stainless bolt.
Let it cool , remove the bolt and chase the threads..
I have done several using this method , with no failures.
Dave

 

I work at a automotive machine shop and we also use br*** to build it back up and re-tap the hole. It works fine.

 

Don't stop reading this when you see the words JB Weld.

A lot of people PooPoo JB Weld but I have had good luck using it with the addition of threaded and screwed holes.

It looks like you could JB Weld the piece back on real tight so that the starter bolt threads will re-tap.

Read the directions on the JB Weld. Clean everything with solvent before using the JB Weld.

Then after 24 hours drill several (3 to 5) small holes thru the meat on the brake each side of the original hole and into the block and tap them with threads.

Then grind or file a small grouve in the threads of the reinforcement screws deep enough to release the JB Weld that you are going to put into the reinforcement holes otherwise you cannot compress the JB Weld that is in the hole and you won't get a good weld on the threads..

Put some JB Weld into the reinforcement holes and on the cleaned threads of the reinforcment grouved screws and thread them in.

I like to use course thread allen screws as they are easy to screw in and the allen screws are harder than regular screws.

Let them cure for 24 hours then cut or grind them off at the surface.

If when you re-tap the threads of the starter bolt you find that you didn't get the broken piece aligned well enough JB Weld the hole being carefull to get as much air out as you can. Put masking tape over the hole untill the weld sets, 24 hrs.

Then drill and re-tap the hole.

Do not try to hurry this process.

This method has worked for me on numerous Hit and Miss engines, pumps and tractor repairs. I haven't had one break yet.

The reinforcement threaded pins would have to break in tension for the repair to fail and that is disregarding the additional strength of the JB Weld itself.

Do not use reinforcement pins that are so big as to weaken the original piece. About 1/2 the width of the mating surface of the break.

The screws might look insignificant but there tinsil is quite good and there are many of them so the total strength is great.

If you want you can also cut a grouve in a stud and JB Weld it into the starter hole. That is if the starter setup will allow it.

****