where can i get these 2 items you speak of what auto part store part numbers will also help thanks..im trying to get this in the car in the next couple of days so any info would help me out thanks
speedway seems to be adding more 2.3 parts http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|2/22/2010%2011:51:03%20PM=2.3&deptId=0&page=GRID
I have the 2.0 on a stand waiting for a project probably a track T . It has TRW 11.5to 1 pistons , ported close chamber head , 2- 40mm DCOE Weber carbs on an Australian Warnaford intake. During the 1970's Buddy Ingrasol ran a Pinto in Comp Eliminator at the dragswith a turboed 2.0 and it went well. Rob.
lets get some picture of that motor woody i would love to see it ... mine wont be in for a while busy at school just today i picked up the distributor,the module ,new cap and rotor and i paid under 100 bucks for everything fairly cheap....thanks to Kenneth S<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_4942164", true); </SCRIPT> for all the help ...hopefully the motor will be installed shortley..
I asked on another thread, but better try here, too. Can anyone point me to a 2.3/2.5 application having a front sump on the late model 1pc rear seal, 1 pc pan gasket engine block? I am swaping a 2.5 with the cast pan into a '62 Falcon. I know about the $$$ circle track pans, just looking for an OE part. Thanks
not really shure but speedway has a bunch of diffrent pans and pump styles for this application..ya just have to go to the speedway.com web site and go to the race car section i think..
That's a bummer. I hate to spend $400 on a circle track pan. I could build one, but that job really makes $400 look like a bargain. Maybe rack & pinion steering is on the menu. Thanks Guys
Hey 4-bangers; I just picked up my first four-banger engine for a project. I THINK I want to keep the EFI for drive-ability??? Has anybody found a good way to keep the EFI, yet keep some element of having the engine look somewhat like an older non-EFI engine? IE: hiding wires, sensors, etc. with dummy panels, parts or small shrouds. Any pictures? The engine is still in the wrecked Ranger. I need to pull out the caved-in body panels so I can get the engine running before removing it. The truck frame does NOT appear to be bent.
it takes a while to get a answer on this topic ....i also need to know if anyone has been able to swap the fuel pump ...is there a way to use a pump on the engine verse elctrical pump just for future refrance ... also just picked up my 5 speed trans today a guy gave it to me for 50 bucks from a junker mustang he was a cool old guy..now i need a fly wheel and clutch and i can drop down onb the rails and get it running..
I got my O/T 88 ranger that was FI 2.3, someone or somebody robbed alot of parts off the FI system by cutting the wires to remove parts. I put a 350 holley 2 barrel on it, since it's my beater I would really liked to have FI so I could just hop in and go when it's cold instead of having to let it warm up some. The hwy gas mileage is the same or a tiny bit better than a FI 2.3 is, but the city gas mileage a little lower than a FI 2.3 but it does have a little more "beans" than my brothers 91 FI 2.3 eventhough my truck is heavier than his (mine is a super cab, his is a regular cab). My sugestion, do it which ever way you want to, you can either take the time to re-route the wiring, and hide what components you can, or ditch the electronics, and put a carb, and duraspark ignition on it. BTW what year model is the ranger, it can make a big difference in your decision. lorodz, on the mechanical fuel pump it also depends on what year the engine is.
If a 2.3 has the boss and block-off plate on the lower D/S corner, then you can run a mechanical fuel pump, I believe. Doesn't the accessory cam drive the mechanical fuel pump?
The auxiliary shaft has lobe on it to run a fuel pump Some 2.3 had a block off plate, then they didn't machine the block for one (the boss is still cast into the block), in 1995 they redesigned the block in that area, and eliminated the fuel pump boss.
Thanks for the responses. My donor Ranger is a 1995 model with the 5-speed. Just think, behind all that twisted metal is a heart donor waiting to give life to some hot rod!
With the 95 you are better off keeping the electronics on it, it may be more trouble than it's worth to convert it depending on your skill level, the 1988 and earlier rangers, and the 1990 earlier mustangs are the better ones if you want to go carburated, with a simpler ignition system. They made more, and more changes to it when they went to the dual plug head in 89 rangers, and 91 mustangs. Some of the 95 - 01 rangers have a factory stroker crank making them a 2.5L
mine is a 87 so i guess i can run a manual fuel pump....if not no biggie ill pick up aq small electric pump .... update .. today just picked up a new clutch kit its a heavy duty pressure plate and puck clutch ..i got hooked up a friend works at a shop and they had one in stock from a couple years ago ..got it for 50 bucks ..so now im into my 4 bangger for 40 for the motor 50 for the clutch 50 for a good bog warner 5 speed, and new clutch cable. now i need to find the flywheel.
lorodz, your engine should have a bolt on block off plate where the fuel pump goes in front of the distributor.
i think it does havent really tore into it yet just accumulating all the goodies .so i can drop it in the a
I seem to remember some discrepancy between turbo sizes on auto and manual Turbo Coupes. I think the auto was bigger, the numbers 60 and 65mm stick in my head. That may be useful to some of you. As far as transmissions go... It's been made clear that the v8 t5 has a bigger input shaft than the one from the turbo coupes and svo's. What are the differences in size between a 4-banger clutch disk and a v8 clutch disk, can you put a v8 disk into a 4cyl pressure plate? Can you drill the flywheel to bolt on a v8 pressure plate?
My wife named the 2000 model Ranger we bought a couple of weeks ago. The "sacrificial lamb" will be her daily while I prep the Falcon, so I am debugging it now. I think the last of the previous owner's issues are resolved. They had let someone that was really good a screwing up car stereos do some electrical work on the lighting that would have embarrassed a 3rd grader with a Radio Shack sci-fair kit. It has also popped a trouble code indicating a lean condition that seems common when the mass-air sensor is dirty. I cleaned it up tonight and took it for several short drives to see if it reset the code and all seems well so far. Once inspected, the Falcon gets a make-over, starting with floor pans. As far as retaining the EFI, I just have a knack for stepping in shit. Here's what I have found so far... The 2.5L motor is not quite identical to the earlier 2.3L. They stroked it 7mm to get 2.5L, but they also went to the cast aluminum oil pan and moved the oil pump from the distributor drive (now deleted entirely) and put it on the auxiallary balance shaft with the oil pump pickup to match. It looks like the earlier pan could be installed, but I have no idea what the oil pickup looks like. The cast pan includes webbing at the rear that integrates into the engine block as a lower mounting face for the transmission. Ditching the aluminum pan would delete two bolts from the bellhousing and potentially jeopardize the strength of the bell. It would be possible to create a couple of support brackets to do the same thing while using a steel pan, but it would still interfere with the rear steering on the Falcon, so no gain. I did a good deal of measuring tonight and have decided that it will be easiest to drop the centerlink by swapping it from mounting above the pitman and idler arms, to installing it from below. If I can weld up and re taper the tierod stud seats from the opposite side, it will net a ~2" drop. If I need more than that, I could use a tubular centerlink having heim ends and maybe 1/2-1" additional spacers to drop the link a little more. The steering geometry would not change since the tierods attach to the pitman and idler. As far as the EFI, the pre '96 models use the EEC-IV computer that is very well supported and uses an external ignition controll that is easily retroed to the pre '88 ignition module. I think the blue module is the hot ticket. That ignition will work without EFI, too. The '96 and up computer is the EEC-V that has the ignition module integrated into the computer. The dual plug set up is about firing a plug on the exhaust stroke to reduce emmisions. I have seen them run on one set of plugs without any issue. It appears that either computer can be made to stand alone with some careful wire tracing and a pin-out diagram for the firewall connector. Extraneous systems are easily removed, but need to be turned off in the programming. In the end, it takes maybe 6 wires to run either system on a modified harnes, depending on if you try to retain any accessories like A/C cut-off at WOT or cruise control. Even the second O2 sensor can be deleted. A speed sensor is needed, but can be inserted inline with a cable speedo, if needed. The fuel pump is a little tricky. The '98-'01 model makes the most power. This is solely the result of increasing fuel pressure to support higher output from the injectors. This is accomplished with a variable voltage control to the fuel pump. I suppose any EFI model before '98 was using a fixed supply voltage, but the '98-'01 model uses voltage increased with engine speed to up the fuel pressure. There is a fuel pressure sensor somewhere, but I haven't found it yet. I'll chime in with more as I learn.
O.K. fellas, I got the bent up pile of scap metal running. I cut away a lot of the metal so I could get the radiator from where it was wrapped around the front of the motor. I repaired part of the wiring harness that was damaged. I tapped into the steering column harness since I did not have keys. I "hot wired" it and VROOM!!!. She was happy to be breathing again after a 6-month hiatus since the wreck. I only let it run less than a minute since there's no radiator. As soon as I can find a temporary radiator, I will rig it up so I can drive the little orphan around to verify the rest of the drivetrain. Then I'll strip away more of the twisted body. But as for now, she starts easy and runs well. I'm checking into what kind of body to find/create so she'll live once again but in the body of something that looks vintage, maybe a boat-tailed roadster body or something else open-wheeled. Who knows what she'll be ??? Ideas welcomed!
Hey ScottyBaccus, or anybody who might know the answer... Seeing your last post on the 2.0/2.3 Ford thread, it looks like you've done a lot of homework so far. Do you konw where I can get a wiring diagram for a 95 Ranger with the 2.3 / manual? I've got the wrecked teal Ranger shown above that I'll be removing for a transplant. I have all the original harness, modules, sensors, etc. It's running now, but a diagram would help to keep things clear as I go along. Additionally, I have a 2.3 from an 86 Mustang for a later project. It has a carb and the TFI distributor, but no wiring or control module. I understand the TFI distributor has no advance to it; that the advancing is all done in some control module. Where can I find info about the best way to deal with this? (find the original harnes and module (did that module do anything else), replace with an earlier distributor (what years), any other possible solutions, etc.)? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
On your 86 2.3 engine just swap out the tfi distributor with duraspark distributor, get the wiring harness from any Ford vehicle that has a duraspark ignition system, or you can make your own harness. Go the thread link in my signature, I have the wiring diagram for the duraspark ignition system there. Unless someone beats me to it I'll scan the 95 engine wire harnes, along with some other year models 2.3 harnesses later on today.
Thanks for the help. I did see your diagram on the link in your signature. So I'll know what years to ask for, What years and vehicles had the Duraspark Dist? I'll keep my eyes open for the scanned wiring diagrams. Thanks again,
The Jalopy Journal
