CDO - What steering box and column is being used? Far as i know, it a stock Model A column & box. - Is the rear spring two individual springs? like 1/4 ellipticals turned 90 deg? Yep, you got it correct. He pinched the rear frame together and made a short rear crossmember that connects the shortened frame rails infront of the rear axle. It is that rear crossmember that the brackets for the 1/4 ellipticals mount to. - Rear shocks, I don't think there was anything solid enough to mount them where you indicated in your pics. I couldn't see into the rear bodywork due to the gas tank being in the way. And it didn't seem there was any way to remove that rear boattail bodywork. I tried to get some pics, but my camera just wouldn't focus when that close. I really liked those shocks you pictured. Very Nice!
Well soon now that the snow is gone I can go get my Project.. Its been in the grove for nearly 40 years and I am gonna put a BANGER in it.. Randy L Peterson
i love the car just a question where did you get them front shocks from im on the look out for some and they look pretty damn cool
Only big hurdle is getting a ***le for it here in South Dakota.. Been on my Parents Farm for nearly 40 years.. The car was purchased back then for then engine My Dad installed the engine in a Model A Truck and the Rest of the chopped up coupe made it out back of the house and was my Jungle Gym.. NOW that I turned 40 I figure its time for a Midlife Crisis and time for me to put an engine together for it and make it go again.. RLP
I have a questioin for anyone, maybe more so for the guys from the other side of the pond. I have a mildly modified banger in my 29 and I recently picked up a 66-67 MGBGT coupe. How much trouble would it be to rebuld the SU's off of it and how would a pair of them work on a banger? I think I have seen some post on here about running them. Are they difficult to rebuild and tune?
Rebuilding and tuning them really isn't a big deal... but you have get a manual. and make sure the br*** slides are in good shape. I bet they would work *****in on a banger so long as it wasn't hugely overbored with a big cam. http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/rebuild.html
HS4 model SUs are only 1 1/2inch . You might be better off with some HS6 13/4s or HS8 , 2" from a Rover/Jaguar. They are often worn in the throttle shaft and always in the main jet. Make sure you get a new mainjet in the kit , and if it's worn ( vertical movement in the shaft) fit new shafts ( you will probably have to bush the body) . Other than that they are easy to rebuild, make sure you do not overtighten the three screws holding the damper chamber down...it will warp and the piston will stick. There's nothing else to repair/replace, just needle and seat and gaskets . Don't worry about the metering needles for now , you will probably need to modify or change them anyway.
I think you'll be fine with a pair of HS4's - my Fordor runs impossibly well on this 1-1/4" D3 downdraft... Doesn't it Artiki?! I am however tempted to try a pair since I found a second one! I've picked up a D4 1-1/2" to try as well. Just saving up to rebuild them all...
monkeybiker, I've never seen an SU mounted that way... (okay, dumb question coming)... Is that just a matter of rotating parts, or did some SU's come that way?
From last month.... I don't have any information on it but have heard tales of an A engine equipped with two Subaru heads. Makes sense as the bore sizes and spacing are very close but as to getting them hooked up you're on your own...!!!
They came that way. Not very common though. The D (downdraft) bodies are unique but share parts with the H (horizontal) carbs. That carb I've worked out was fitted to a Rover 12. Considering it came off such a small engined car I never even expected it to run... Should get the chance to see how a pair of 'em work later this year.
Thanks for the info monkeybiker!... I see that Artiki's looking forward to seeing how they work as well
I think this is the car that had the suburu heads but I could be wrong about that! This was 2008 at Bonneville.
Pete Ardema in san diego is the person that had subaru heads on model A engine big three in 2007 he had it on display and running. He makes a bunch of overhead cammed heads for different engines even a harley one
For the banger fans that will be in the So Cal area on the 25th of this month: Here is a picture of last years turn out:
I drove the modified to work yesterday, as I do several times a week (40-50 mile round trip), and on the way back my temp gauge dropped down to the bottom. I figured well it's a little chilly and I'm not running her that hard so no big deal. Out of nowhere the radiator starts shooting steam 6-7 feet in all direction looking like a dang tea pot about to explode. At the same time I noticed "embers" (kind of looked like ones floating away from a fire) appearing randomly but not a lot or consistantly... I was less than a mile away from the house so I eased her home but as soon as i parked that radiator was whistling and steaming like crazy!! It was dark out so I couldn't really get a good look and I'm working today so no luck there. ANy ideas or thoughts as to where I start my search? Also I noticed it started to backfire more when I ease off of the gas.... thanks guys.
Pic of car in question.. ignore my brothers civic.. my daughter wanted to take a drive (14 more years before that though).
Ok, I've been experimenting with different gear lubes for my trans ( stock 3spd. ). I've found that all the "gear" type lubes ( 600w, 90w, Lucas 90-140 ) "foam out" after a while and the box becomes noisier. I accessed my memory banks and remembered I used straight 30 weight to quiet down an old boat outdrive and found it didn't foam out and performed quite well. Last night I put straight 30 in my trans and the result was excellent! Went for a nice long drive this morning and the box maintained the same level of noise ( quiet ) and shift quality for the duration of the drive. What do you guys think? Ever done this before?? I'd like some input.
I have a 84 150 trans in my RPU and the supplier recommended 30w. I had a 1951 Mercedes Benz (4 speed on the column) and in the owners manual they recommended ATF in the trans.