Hot Rods May Bang-Er thread

Model A's corner faster on two wheels, but don't try this at home.

 

Hello

I'd like to drill my model B crank for oil pressure to the rods. I know there was some plans in a Secrets of Speed from way back. But I can't find it. Does anyone have the angles and measurements for drilling? I know the holes will need to be a bit of center on at least the mains.

Thanks,
Magnus

 

Will Kimble/BigCheese have it down. I would like to add that the 32-34 trans only handle the 9" clutches, 35-up bigger if I remember. If money is an issue I would not spring for the 39 trans for most applications.

 

Woah!! Scary ride

 

You guys might have remembered this truck when I bought it about 9 months ago or so. I wanted to keep it patina'd, drop it, and juice it. Well, I just got it on the ground yesterday. Ive been thrashing on it to get it done for the Santa Maria show this year. Im having a few small issues though; the drums seem to spin wobly and the wiring is kinda weird. I turned the truck off, made sure the lights were off, then went in the house to shower. I came out and it smelt like burning diahrea outside. I checked the truck and the wiring cluster was burning! It wasnt bad enough to burn anything, but I definatetly will be pulling the wiring out of it and making a small harness with a switch for the lights. Scary though!

 

I have done it several times but do not have the angle measurements handy either. I have also done counter balanced ones. I use the angles in the books as a guide but in the end use the angle that suits the crank, as A, B and "C's" are all slightly different.

Set it up in a milling machine and angle the head with your drill or a piece of true, ground rod in a collet or chuck as a guide (check to make sure it does not run out at all) and set the angle so that it will not break thru in either radius. I first cut a flat spot on the journal with an end mill and then center drill it. Then drill the hole slowly taking care to keep withdrawing the drill and get the chips out and to keep applying cutting oil. If you are careful you will not have trouble, but it takes time and patience.

If you want the rear hole to be in the middle of the rear journal if you need it there for the oil supply from the bearing, try this. Drill from the back end forward to intersect the hole to the rod journal in a lathe, then drill another hole down at an angle from the rear main to connect with this. Then plug the hole out the back so it cannot leak.

Because of the angles involved you will find that the two holes will leave you with an area .375" long on the center main. I open this up as you see in the first photo and feed the oil from the bearing to the center of this area.

The third photo shows you about where you will end up on the rear main journal (by the pen) if you drill all the way thru and the other two photos show you how to drill it to get it were you want. Again plug the back and when you are all done take it to a good balancer.

This is a counterweighted B that I have shortened and cut the counterweights down to clear the cam and I cut down the journals and had them ground to fit in a T as the mains can't be much bigger than 1.625" - 1 5/8". It is going in my T with the BB Rajo overhead several posts back. It may look a little different from your crank but every thing else is the same. When you are done the oil holes all need to be champered. I do not use inserts but use diesel marine babbit and keep it thin and have never had any trouble, even in racing applications. While I am align boring I cut the oil grooves for the feed to suit the locations of the oil holes. Just think it all out and take you time, if will come out OK.

 

Maybe the generator cutout/relay has burned points and jammed closed?

 

One of the nicest looking T speedster bodies of the period. Without the fenders and top they look even better.

 

Here is a similar speedster:

 

Quick question. I know a lot of guys are running model t rear springs to help bring it down. Any reason not to use the 2" dropped model a spring? Is that too much of a drop to run the rear fenders etc like Chris or Elrod? Thanks guys.

 

T spring is two or so inches lower - but it's also a softer rate. I use one on my trials car (lightweight modified) and it works a treat, but I'm swapping back to an A spring on the Fordor - too soft with the back seats full...

 

ejay, I just did a complete swap on my truck, im going to do a writeup on how I dropped and juiced it. Should be soon.

 

If you use one of the after market springs with a 2" + drop with reversed eyes you may have a problem installing because there is no place for a spring spreader to locate and the spring I used was very stiff. I installed a "Posie's" rear spring and could not get enough weight on the rear of the frame to spread it using the 2 by 4 block method. I finally made a pair of brackets that clamp onto the spring so I could use my spreader. I think it is/was advertised as a 2 3/4" drop.

 

This is kind of my thinking. I'm planning on running the rumble seat so I don't want it to be too soft. Hmm... guess I can just try it out to see.

 

It rides real fine 2-up, and with a bit of camping gear - but adding a couple of beer monsters back there and it bottoms out.

 

Can someone school me on Dimond blocks? What years where they produced? How many were made? What makes them special? Averave price? Easy way to tell if you have a dimond block? Does a dimond head have a Ford script?

Thanks guys

 

It's a little crude and can mar paint if you're not very careful, but I use heavy wratchet straps around the frame and rearend with the 2 by 4 method to get enough squish in the back to spread the spring. Makes it a super simple one-man job and when done properly, it's super safe. Luke

 

Nice motor shot from the Pasadena run.

I got this one to fire up Saturday.(old pics)
Plumb brakes, mount battery, and floor left to do.
Loud and exciting!!!

 

More biggerer closerer pictures corn boy!!!

 

I chose a Model T spring because they are dirt cheap and or free if you luck out. Just picked one up at the swap for $20. The one on my coupe was given to me if I hauled the hay wagon T frame that was still with it away. Not sure how much $$$ the 2" dropped Model A spring is.

I also took out two leaves on my T spring. It's soft especially if you go over rail road tracks or something. I carry tools, spare tire, spare parts, water jugs, jack and a brick or two in the trunk for emergencies and after hearing what Monkeybiker said, maybe THAT's why it's a little soft! haha.

I would happily put the Model T spring pack back to stock number of leaves and it would probably be good for me. Maybe also purchasing a new reproduction Model T spring would be more stiff. I surprisingly don't hit my head in the coupe and I have the stock seat riser and a rumble seat bottom cushion in there.

 

Do you find a need to throw bricks often enough to carry them in your trunk?

.

 

It is a running miniature version of a Ford banger that a friend sent pictures of to me. I have tried to find out who made it, but I have not been able to find one. He said there was a batch made and because of cost, there won't be any more made.

Sorry.

.

 

there was a link somewhere on the hamb to the guy that makes all differeent types of running minerature engines

 

I finally got to my flywheel, it now weighs 34lbs, now its off getting balanced, just had to show it off.

 

The flywheel looks nice FRO...

 

Cool man. I appreciate the help. I think I'll just go with what I know works for you guys out there with bitchin slammed coupes. I love and hate your coupe btw b/c it looks so right it makes me have fights with myself over chopping mine. ugh... I'll figure it out soon enough I guess!

 

There's a 1/4 scale Model A engine here.
http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Root.htm

 

WOW that scale engine builder had amazing skills.
Have a look its worth it.

 

He's doing a maneuver called the "Enbloc" to pass that guy!