Steering damper from a landrover fixed mine. Can steer down a country road with one finger now. Only thing that gives me the ****s now is ruts on the inside lane.
Try looking up " stell got my deth wobbel" yes, spelled that way. Said something about caster fixing it, a**** lots of other amusing things.
I don't know if this information is relevant to this post but my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee developed a bad wobble. It felt fine to drive but a few weeks ago it shuddered a bit after going over a set of railroad tracks. I checked the front end and the panhard bar or "track bar" was worn so I got a new one. I didn't change it right away and within days the problem had gone from a slight shudder to a full blown wobble. I had to slow right down to get it to stop. Anyway, I installed the new panhard bar and the wobble disappeared. The Jeep uses a four link setup with coil springs.
My work with 4x4 and hot rod stuff has lead me to believe that death wobble, aka: axle tramp, is a common malfunction of any suspension design that has leading links (links that go forward from the frame to the axle).
Make sure your rotors aren't warped or out of round.Had mine turned and installed new pads ,fixed my problem.By the way ,the rotors were newwhen installed
ok, I have a couple suggestions. I would swap your lower shock mounts side to side to give more angle on the shocks. it looks like you have the draglink from the steering box running parallel with the split wishbone? if so this wrong and will cause bump steer. you need to get the box end of the draglink lower so that when the axle moves up and down the draglink and the wishbone are moving in the same arc (or at least very similar arcs). Simple test for bump steer (not to be confused with death wobble/wheel slap) it to stand on the front frame horns and jump up and down while watching the steering wheel through the screen. If the relationship between the draglink and the wishbone is correct the steering wheel will not move - if its wrong you will see the steering wheel moving side to side as you jump. Also it appears your steering arms on the stubs have been heated and bent down? Has anyone checked that there is still some Ackerman principle happening? You should be able to draw an imaginary line through the centre of each kingpin - through the end of each tie rod end and they should meet at the centre of the rear axle (diff head) hope this all makes sense ... .
^^^^^^^^^^^^ For the love of all things good PLEASE do not re-open this thread. That been said, if everything is new and tight it has to be a geometry or strength of parts issue, plenty of quick easy checks have been outlined get busy and give us an update.
I wonder if your basic steering geometry is correct. If the relationship between the drag link and wishbone is wrong, your just ******* up a rope. Its been discussed alot.
this is my vote too. After seeing the pics of the steering setup, showing the pitman arm pointing up, I am reminded of the steering tutorial in the front of a Pete and Jake's catalog that talks about drag link vs. cross steer, and wishbone vs. 4 link. it's not enough to have the radius rod parallel to the ground, and the drag link parallel to the ground. If the two are different lengths, they travel different arcs during suspension movement. your situation initiates with a bump steer and continues as uncontrollable "head shake" it's been a couple months since you started this thread, have you done ANYTHING to it yet?
Ok pure guess..Shock mounts..try making new top shockmount for the top so shock is in a more vertical almost straight up and down..try it you may be suprised..
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