30 years ago I used Mazda RX-7 because they were so compact. now all new cars are using small thin motors. just about any will work and most are better than after market. I use aftermarket all the time for customers that request them and only get 1-2 a year come back for repairs
Electric windows are not traditional...just thought I would let you know. This is a traditional board after all. There are plenty of websites that cater to the NSRA Goodguy mobiles.
Sorry, you want traditional go hydralic out of 30-50's but they can be a pain in the *** and if you want to be the trad cop. start with Bags and Mustang ll. or you can just help fellow rodders with their personal builds
Maybe it is alot or reasons I'm thinking electric windows the biggest reason is cause I'm 6'4" tall and the damm winder and my left knee resides in the same spot on the door, thus causing a very uncomfortable ride another excellent reason, is that my winders are compltely shot and my I goal thought was to buy all the stuff new from mac's, but it is just as expensive as an aftermarket power window set plus a final reason is it is my car and power windows is what I want and since ****in when does having power windows make a car un****in traditional..... I knew there where some ***hole rivit counters here but dammm didn't think it was as petty as this for the ones that dropped some helpful info... Thanks I appreciate it for the other dumb ***es, that just has some sinceless **** to say... **** you
The Model A Coupe project I bought had electric power windows (no gl*** though). The motors were salvaged and switches used are easily found at Pep Boy or Kregans. The motors lift mechanisms were fabed and nothing real fancy a length of sheet metal and salvaged sliders. Wiring is easy; power & ground to the switch and power is routed to the motor; one terminal for up the other terminal for down. As far as traditional; anything I salvage is fair game in my book.
Notice the difference of opinion in respect to the join date. People that have been around for a while seem to get what this board is about...people that have been around for a month or so don't get it. Getting your balls busted is part of it...if you don't like the response you get think about the question you asked and what board you are on and if you don't like the "gospel" maybe this isn't your type of board. It doesn't make me right it doesn't make you right but on this board there is a certain box we like to stay in and if you stray expect to get reigned in.
While you're at it, you should electrify your widshield too. I mean, that one is a toughy being two knobs to loosen, pushing it out AND retightening.
I tore into a 2000 or so Buick Century door a while back because the power window motor interchanged with a van door I was selling a guy and discovered they use a cable lift system similar to one of the ones you see advertised in Street Rodder. But at a you-pull-it I can buy the whole damn door for $40, switches, wiring and all if I want. Sometimes that's cheaper than buying it by the piece. I'd look at those if I was doing an A - they don't need a lot of room and the cable means you can put the motor most anywhere it needs to go. Checking on Rock Auto I found the interchange includes Pontiac, Buick, Olds, Chevy and Saturn, so there's a bunch of possibles that use the same deal. While you're at it, the 97-up GM van (or the same Jeep mentioned before) might be a good source for bear-claw latches; the GM ones are plastic and made in Mexico, but have the power lock solenoid integrated in them and are fairly small. Worth a look. Power locks may not be traditonal, but they're pretty damned handy once you try them.
The Jalopy Journal
