what is the opinion of the m***es about type of oil and addatives i have a 54 belair 235 78000 mles ive owned the car for about a year changed the oil before the winter with 30w non detergent no addatives i want to change again should i use the same or change put something in it zddplus or lucas or something else thanks for the info vinny
There are lots of threads on oil, zinc and additives. The search function will provide tons of results. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=9652305
maybe there's a better deal out there but, i bought a case of brad penn oil from hotrod company. it ends up being less than $5.00 a quart with the hamb alliance.
I believe in castrol. It is an oil based lubricant versus a parafin (wax)based oil such as penzoil. One of the cars in my family has been running it since new in 85, and now with just over 560 K on the clock it has never been opened up. Granted it is a diesel, but just use quality oil and change it regularly. i have never found any magic in a bottle to repair worn out engines, but a good engine will stay good with quality oil and frequent changes. That my 2 cents.
First change the the oil every 1000 miles or 90 days. Any brand quality oil in either straight 30 or 20-50. Forget the non-detergent as it will have minimal ZZDP in the first place. The lightly loaded cam lobes in that old 235 pretty much anything will keep them happy. Actually when that car was new detergent oils were in use ,not near as good as now but still had a detergent package.
Brad Penn oil has one of the highest zinc contents of any off the shelf oil...as well as Shell Rotella T (used in diesels)......I would recommend the Brad Penn for any original non-rebuild pre- 70's engine especially with a flat tappet camshaft...for its zinc content....the metallurgy of those older engines is not as advanced as what we have today with roller cams, lots of aluminum etc.....all these newer oils have a lot of detergents and most of the zinc and other goodies have been removed for emissions purposes. The Brad Penn oil is basically an old school oil...for an old school motor. This oil is recommended by many cam grinders....Crower Cams, Crane Cams, Koerner Racing Cams , Cam Motion, Inc., Howard Cams, Schneider Racing Cams...
Your motor is most likely ac***ulated a lot of sludge with that many miles on it, (more probably than not) and has had low additive oil used in it. I would be more afraid of changing to something with more additives, my fear being of loosening up all of that gunk where it could do damage.
Waste oil ?? Maybe! Save engine ? For sure. These old engines did not have much in the way of filter systems if any , and no PCV systems. So real frequint changes made the engines last MUCH longer. My Dad had a new 58 Chevy PU 283 ,100K in 4 years of mostly in town delivery service . Got oil/filter every 1000 using 10-30 Havolene ,which was a high detergent for it's day. End result engine used NO oil at 100K and ran as good as new. Even to this day my 65 Ranchero and 27 T get 2K oil/filter changes with good filters and PCV systems.
Yep, change ever 1,000 miles and waste a lot of money. You probably will not put a lot of miles on it like some of my cars. What I do is change the oil and filter once every year on my low mileage drivers. I do this just before I store them for the Winter months. At the same time I fill the gas up with fuel stabilizer added to it and unhook the batteries. Come Spring, hook up battery and you are ready to roll. For oil, any major brand name oil will work. They all meet oil specs...but I do recomend one with detergents and with the Zinc for wear protection. Non-detergent is for breaking in older engines. If you keep using it, your engine really will sludge up. So find a brand with detergent and Zinc in it that is available in your area and good luck hot rodding! "Wasn't anybody there except me and Little *****"
Fresh oil is good for a motor. Old dirty oil is not. I change the oil in my jalopies twice a year, Fall and Spring, they get fresh oil to start with in Oct or Nov. In the winter months I don't drive my jalopies as much as in summer. Those short drives in the winter result in buildup of moisture and condensed fuel residue. Unless driven for several hours to warm the oil up to a high enough temperature, those contaminates are never cleaned out. Changing the oil in the spring ***ures that.
if it explodes you wont have to worry about helping people who have a question thanks for your help vinny
The Corvair Oil Article recommends the use of Heavy Duty Engine Oils in flat tappet engines. No additional additive should be added to a good engine oil.
Just go to Wal mart or your local parts store and buy Rotella . Has all you need for a flat tap engine . If you want to spend more on oil , then there are Royal Purple , Ams-oil and others that you can buy . You can also use diesel oil too . All will take care of your flat tap cams needs ! Retro Jim
I thought I heard a faint bang. That's so sad. It was completely preventable, too. All he would have had to do is not read the thread. Bob
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