Register now to get rid of these ads!

Compression test finished what now!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by psychobilly66, May 19, 2010.

  1. psychobilly66
    Joined: Apr 3, 2009
    Posts: 13

    psychobilly66
    Member
    from oklahoma

    Well did the compression test last night on the 1951 chevy 216. Going from front to back they read 100,110,90,100,100,95. What should I do next? Could this be the cause of my knocking problem?
     
  2. MBog
    Joined: May 2, 2006
    Posts: 556

    MBog
    Member

    Could this be the cause of my knocking problem?

    No, thats not bad for an old six. Probably a wrist pin or rod bearing...
     
  3. moter
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,131

    moter
    Member

    what kind of knock? is the knock at an idle? If so start the engine and pull a plug wire 1 at a time till the knock changes, if it does that is the cylinder with the issue. If it does not it is most likely main bearing.
     
  4. psychobilly66
    Joined: Apr 3, 2009
    Posts: 13

    psychobilly66
    Member
    from oklahoma

    Did that last night it still knocks. It also getts louder the more the car warms up
     
  5. buzz bomb
    Joined: Jun 3, 2006
    Posts: 493

    buzz bomb
    Member

    not to point out the obvious, but how about a timing issue? I had the same problem when I had my staright 8 in the poncho and it turned out to be timing. It not only happend at hard acceleration but also at mid idle, just a thought

    Buzz Bomb
     
  6. psychobilly66
    Joined: Apr 3, 2009
    Posts: 13

    psychobilly66
    Member
    from oklahoma

    Ill try and check the timing tonight. New to the inlines is it checked the same way as the v8's?
     
  7. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    There is a ball in the face of the flywheel ,window in bellhousing with a pointer just above the starter . with vacuum advance disconnected ball lined up with pointer at idle. If it knocks at idle it ain't timing. Time to drop the pan and adjust the rod bearings if you have not totally pounded out the bearings. Get a "Motor's" manual for the 50s for the correct way to check/adjust your rod bearings.
     
  8. moter
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,131

    moter
    Member

    I do not know what exact trans you have but...I seen a Flex plate crack arounnd the mounting holes to the crankshaft and have the same sound as a engine knock. Does it change when put in gear? [automatic] If not you gotta pull the engine
     
  9. smiffy6four
    Joined: Apr 12, 2010
    Posts: 333

    smiffy6four
    Member

  10. Spidercoupe
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 174

    Spidercoupe
    Member
    from Bevier, MO

    If it is an original engine it has babbit rods and the have to be adjusted with shims on the rod cap. lots of fun adjusting good luck
     
  11. BigChief
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 2,084

    BigChief
    Member


    Motors with poured babbit bearings use shims between the main and rod caps. As the babbit bearing material wears away you can use thinner shims to tighten up the bearing clearance and adjust it to within specification. Once you run out of shim and tin-lead babbit material (or its pounded or spun out) then its time to have the rods and/or block bearings 'repoured'.

    -Bigchief.
     
  12. If you're not familiar with how poured babbit bearings are done, here's a link with some interesting basic info and a bunch of good pics of the process.

    http://www.nwo-modelt.org/blocks.html
     
  13. psychobilly66
    Joined: Apr 3, 2009
    Posts: 13

    psychobilly66
    Member
    from oklahoma

    Hey thanks guys might just drop a 235 out of a 1955 in it. Have a lead on a runner.
     
  14. rd martin
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 2,469

    rd martin
    Member
    from indiana

    just a throught, i have run into carbon causing knocks, a piece breaks off lands on top the piston and it will knock like hell.have used gm top engine cleaner, liquid not the spray, get motor hot pull the plugs ,pour it in cylinders, let soak for a few hours, crank it over blow excess out, plugs in , run it i alittle hard, still there , repeat. carbon is hard, it can knock loud. worth a shot.
     
  15. Spidercoupe
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 174

    Spidercoupe
    Member
    from Bevier, MO

    Back in the day [Im telling my age now] I had a 52 chevy and then a 53 chevy that the wrist pin worked out and cut a grove in the cyl wall. both of these engines had babbit rods. the 53 chevy with powerglide trans had inserts but the standard shift had babbit rods. In 54 they all went to inserts.
     
  16. smiffy6four
    Joined: Apr 12, 2010
    Posts: 333

    smiffy6four
    Member


    I never knew that.............:)
     
  17. hemiboy
    Joined: Apr 21, 2005
    Posts: 249

    hemiboy
    Member

    I've only had two problems with 216s- timing gears stripping and rods knocking. Get them too hot or run them too hard (who, me?) and you'll stretch the rod bolts. If it's not hurt too badly you can shim the rods, if you can find the shims (maybe Egge?). If you do this, don't forget to align the dipper "squirters". You do this by running water thru the oil pan oil input, scribing an "X" on the opposite side of the pan in the embossed "square", and bending the nozzle with a punch that fits inside the nozzle. I'd swap for a full pressure 235/261! Have fun!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.