Stubborn 9 in. Axle Removal

Did you not change the inner seals after you heated the housing and beat the hell out of the axle. Do it again,pull the axles and use the end of the axle to pry out the old seals, make sure the seals don't fall out of the bearings either or you will be replacing them bearings after they explode too. Use a big socket to put the new seals in, tap them gently they are made of sheet metal and bend very easy, they can go in so far before they hit the lip they seat against. When I have stubborn axles I knock out one of the retaining bolts and put a punch through the hole and drive the axle out from the back side. ALL AXLES ARE EQUAL BUT SOME ARE MORE EQUAL THAN OTHERS. LUCK

 

Going to pull the axle tonight and see if I put new seals in or not, I don't remember but don't know why I wouldn't have with it that far apart.

 

First problem, Only gonna take an afternoon.
I had one stuuuuuuck inna 59ranch wagon. We loosened everything up and drove it back and forth up-n-down the driveway till it came out.
That was an afternoon project too. Only took a tank and a half to get it loose.
We were kids. Moronic kids. Successful moronic kids.

 

Pulled the axle, have to say only a few yanks and it came out, thank God. Now the seal looks like I didn't replace it but it doesn't look or feel bad either. It's not stamped ford but does have a US patten and a part number on it, so it's probably older.
At any rate I will put a new one in and drop the axle off tomorrow to get the bearing off and straighten that retaining plate. Hopefully I will have it back together by Friday and the leakage will be over.
A slide hammer should work getting that seal out if my seal puller doesn't reach it, right ?

 

That seal could be a hand full after having all the trouble with the axle. Try the puller first. Watch for the spring behind the seal, it may fall out into the axle tube. I just had a set of seals in a 8 inch ford that would not move with the slide puller.

If the puller does not work. Take a punch or chisel on end and hit the bottom of the seal. As you drive the bottom in the top should pop out and just grab it was pliers and pull it out.

 

You did clean the bearing bore in the housing before you reinstalled the axle? there will be as much rust in there as there was on the bearing.

 

I think I found the problem, it looks like the last guy who put the bearings on for me cut the old ones off. There is a nick on the axle right where the seal rides, nice groove for the lube to get past. I filled the groove with epoxy and sanded it down flush.
I'm still waiting on the innear seal, they said tomorrow by 11a.m.

Yes I cleaned and even put a little grease in there before installing the axle, also checked it for burrs.

 

Had it out tonight and no leakage, but only time will tell if the epoxy holds up.

 

i think you owe that guy a swift kick in the nuts. that is a good stress riser and point for potential failure. Did you ever check to see if the housing was straight. That would account for all you problems.

 

Why dont you pee on it. That will do more good than WD 40. WD 40 is useless for that. Loosenal or LLoyds pentrating etc etc willhelp but WD isa water defeating silcon based product and little more. Actually the heat advice is good as is you use of a chain which will out perform any slide hammer and costs nothing. since we already have a chain somewhee in out shops. I have used a 40 foot logging chain. So far i been lucky. The chain is undefeated.
Don

 

Brickster is correct, seen it happen

 

I hear that Moser sells a one piece bearing and seal that uses an O ring. I guess that is also an option if it does start leaking again but I'm hoping it don't.
As far as the axle breaking the car only has right around 900 lbs on the rear and doesn't hook up worth a crap so I should be good there, again hopefully.