What's your favorite penetrating oil? Look @ this

Kroil..........."The oil that creeps"

 

Ok many years ago we had an old 6 banger at the shop. The kid that worked for me had gotten the engine for free if he could get it running !! Now the engine was stuck tight as hell. So he starts all of the fooling around with all of the liquid wrench and penetrating methods. So after about a week with no luck this old timer is hangin in the shop and he tells the kid to go to the drug store and get a bottle of CASTOR OIL. Now put a pot on the hot plate and heat the oil. Now he says just get this **** smokin and its just HOT ENOUGH !! Then dump the oil in the sparkplug holes and wait about 10-15 minutes and give it a shot with the rocking back and forth on the crankshaft bolt. I'll be damned if this **** didn't loosen the old 6 banger right up and the kid got the engine for FREE !!! >>>>.

 

I heard a similar story with Wintergreen from the drug store

 

Ballistol is available here, we use it on blackpowder rifles and muskets.

 

Groucho you do know everything I post on here is the 100% truth !!! >>>>.

 

So it's gotten worse since you originally posted this:

"I've been trying to unstick this valve for MONTHS. The valve won't shut on it's own. I have to tap it to this position.I've been trying to unstick this valve for MONTHS. The valve won't shut on it's own. I have to tap it to this position."

From your original description, it sounded like you could move the valve, and the problem was that the spring couldn't pull it back shut.

 

GM heat valve lubricant. Don't think they make it anymore but I have one can left on the shelf for the really stuck items. The can is about 15 years old but it still works!

 

CRAAAP, I hate typing. But here goes. Not that it helps the matter. But, I'll type all this just for you. With both heads off (zero compression), the valve is so tight in the guide it slows the starter motor when the lobe attempts to open that one valve. IT'S TIGHT. The motor was rebuilt shortly before it was parked in '73, so I'm trying to spare the customer me taking the motor out and apart for one lousy valve. It had 1 stuck piston and 3 stuck valves. All were freed with little effort except this one valve. If I try to pull the valve to clean it and the guide, and the valve breaks, I'm ****ed. I don't even think I can get a valve spring tool on it in the valley area with the cam/lifter in the way. So, back to the original question please. Happy?

 

Gibbs is what I use..

 

One of my favorite!

 

Anyone ever heard of Chesterton? We found a can in my buddies garage and it worked awesome, but now we're out of it and I don't think they make it anymore.

 

Gibbs. It is replacing all the other "stuff" in the shop and in the house. I use it on the bare aluminum body on the Bonneville car, on bolt threads, and on my .40 S&W. It contains no silicones, so there is no worry about painting post-Gibbs (not that I think you are worried about painting the valve!). Best lube ever. vic

 

Damn Groucho I was going to tell you that you need to unweld it first. I'm glad that is silicone.

I like liquid wrench., it works well for me.

But if something is really stuck the wife uses Coca Cola mixed with a little ATF. I've seen her do it a zillion times even on stuff that I was ready to give up on. I guess the acid on the coke eats away the corrosion etc.

I had a stuck short block back in the '90s that I was really frustrated with and decided to just beat the pistons out of it so I could at least salvage the rods and crank. She brought out her mix and poured it on top of the pistons and told me to let it set for a day. Sure enough a day later I was able to salvage the block and the psitons as well as the rods and crank.

 

That's funny

 

have you called max at h&h maybe he has a trick up his sleeve?

 

Living in Alaska....our snowmachines (snowmobiles to you lower 48'ers) would be seized up from sitting all summer (we had old junk one's..haha) and would need a little "sumpthin', sumpthin'" poured in the cyliders to free 'em up...

That Magic in a Can tm was..........Coca-Cola

 

If you can get it open partway, which it sounds like you can, can you grab the head with a channel-lock or something similar and turn the valve at all? Just a couple degrees of rotation back and forth, along with any of the snake oil recommended here, will definitely get it loose.

And if it is a Cadillac/Lasalle flathead, and you destroy the valve, I'll send you one.

 

I've heard pepsi would do it after a week. They've changed the formula so much in the past decade, it probably doesn't work that great anymore.

 

Kroil - Hands down! I don't even bother with WD40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster anymore...

 

CRC use it all the time. they have a new one called" knock'er loose"

 

I tried that. You can definately feel it's gonna break before turning. Thanks on the offer, it's a 37 LaSalle. But, replacing the valve is not what worries me. It's removing and dis***embling a motor at great cost unnecessarily if I break it. If filling the port with something doesn't work, I'll prolly have to do the motor. I'm just trying one last attempt first. The silicone should be cure later on. So I want to fill the port with the best available penetrant

 

try freezer.

 

I'm seeing more votes for Kroil than the others. Where am I more likely to find it?

 

+1 meeelion for the KROIL OIL

 

Aircraft supply

 

Love ???

 

..I've been working at the same refinery / petrol research center for 25 years and Kroil is all they ever use...I've seen it do some amazing stuff with rusted up fittings that felt like they were welded together.
Fill up the port with it and come back and tap on the valve face every so often to help it "creep"...

..as someone else mentioned the stuff smells like *** and is kind of creepy when it gets on your skin.



try your local industrial supply house, MSC, Grainger, Fasten-all..etc.




.

 

I was in a gun shop and saw some available for sale.

 

beat me also!!!!

 

I get it from the website........ http://www.kanolabs.com/

Cool people, they know frozen stuck parts, they are located in Nashville, they ship fast!