Thanks Josh, thats a nice compliment coming from a proffessional, I started out having my polisher friend helping me out but even at mates rates it was costing so decided to do it myself, I sometimes struggle to get it as good as he does but the polisher i got has made an incredible difference.
Thanks Bill, appreciate your input. the flake colour on my green roadster is Forest Lime miniflake. I finally made a decision and polished the edge of the backplates and put them in for chrome, It will be just the outside edge and outer ring of holes, the rest i will flake. like you said it needed a contrast and with all chrome it might look like you can't see the wood for the tree's.
Thanks Dan, now get back to your project as i wanna ride in it when we come over later this year Say hi to the old fella for me.
Never really been away from the project mate, its just taking a lot longer than i anticipated I already chose the colour and did a test paint on a pair of valve covers, Yep flake again it looks awesome against the stainless frame, Hope you like it Thanks for your comments and input.
I've got most of the bits for this project squirrelled away but was lacking some door handles, had a look around but nothing floated my boat so decided to make some with holes in them to follow the theme in the car. Luckily I had some 10mm stainless offcuts in the bin so a shape was drawn and cut out with a 1mm cutting disc, as this was easy to hold in the drill vice I drilled the holes before cutting out. Once the shape was cut it was linished smooth ready for polishing. At this stage the shape was put into the handle with a soft sander and a curve was put into the handle by clamping in a vice over 3 small lives of bar. Here we have the polished handle, next I spun up a couple of pieces of stainless bar to weld to the handle to act as a extension, I forgot to take a picture of these I think Here we have the handle welded up and the weld polished out, I'm pretty pleased the way they turned out I robbed the baseplates off some old handles so these will be rechromed.
Wow, your ride is really coming together. As someone mentioned before, your attention to detail and the little bits is absolutely amazing. You said that you are gonna flake it which I think that over all, that will end out looking really nice. Your work is always top notch and I will be lucky if one day, I can make a rod look as good as your's. Plus I decided that I shall let you carry on... Because I obviously have control over your ever move. Mwa-ha-ha-ha!!!
Would that be at Santa Pod ??? I hold 2 records in the old Production Class of the B.D.R.A. I spent alot of time there and in the car culture of England during my time there. I love the spirit of the rodders over there. Your ride is top notch, I think you flush more talent after wiping than I have in total !!!
Top shelf design and work Langy. I have followed along each build and had to say that. Doing the extra steps is certainly worth it, as the design and flow will have folks circling the car finding all of the detail work. Hell, I have read this thread several times already! Great job and thanks for sharing!
Forest Lime... have to check into that! I think the chrome rim around the edge of the backing plate will look awesome. Gives something for all the hardware to contrast against, but still brings it up a few notches past just painting the part. BTW, I was explaining to my mom about the different sub-genres of hot rodding (Asian cars, Pro Street, traditional, musclecars, etc), when she asked me which was my favorite. So, I pulled this thread up as an example of what's best in hot rodding: traditional style, lots of power, and artistry. This almost inspires me to go wash my pickup. -Bill
I only got to race and go to events at The Pod ... I was somewhat of a minor celebrity there in the mid 80's ... my fleeting 15 minutes I suppose
Thanks Kookee, I like looking at detail stuff myself, sometimes you see a car from 30ft that draws you in to look at it and then you start noticing the detail stuff.
Hey Langy, it's Vadon. I am the Yank Air Force guy that ran a '72 Buick Skylark that was about the same green as the roaster in your avatar. There was a 8x10 pic of me doing a burnout hanging in the BDRA office building until they tore it down. It used to give Eyvone Tramm fits because it was taken at Gary's Picnic and I wasn't wearing a helmet.
Fantastic Werk Man ,,Excellant ,,and you're way over there across the big pond ,,hope you find a way to bring it over here when it's done,,so we can see that great werk in person ,, $11 a gal ??? Whew ,,and i complain when ours here in the Ozarks gets over $2.75 ,, keep the pics coming ,,,great insperation to a lot of us ,,
You've made some cool parts.They reminds me a bit when i did some bike parts from stainless steel to my bike few yrs ago.Lot of speed holes and polishing for them too. Keep it coming!
I'm stuck with welding chassis together as the jig has a frame on it at the moment so i decided to make a start on my 40 Ford dash, Its a fair bit wider than the T body and its usual to narrow them in the middle and recurve the ends. I didn't want to narrow it so i cut it to length and will make new curved ends for it later. One problem is with the 40 cluster is that its almost impossible to get a speedo and 4 small gauges in it, I've elected to fit just a speedo, oil pressure and water temp, my voltmeter and fuel gauge will be going elsewhere. I made up a baseplate in 2mm stainless sheet and made the surround from 25mm x 5mm stainless bar, its made in 4 bits and welded at the corners. The baseplate is held to it by 8 x 3mm countersunk screws. Next up was the speaker grille which actually will house my radio instead, easy way out would of been to get a repro chrome 40 grille but i did that on my 32 and while it has classic looks i wanted something different so i set about making something that would reflect the lightening hole theme in the car, again i started with a piece of 2mm stainless sheet and marked out my design that just happens to be the same as my grill insert, more about that later. The outside finisher is 15mm x 5mm stainless bar again welded in each corner and radiused, the sheet is then secured to the back of the finisher with small screws. It hinges up for access to the radio, I wish i had kept the hinge templates from when i did my 32 as they would of saved me a lot of time making it all work again. Polished hinges are welded to the 2mm stainless baseplate and connect to a hinge plate that is welded to the inside of the dash. i was originally going to polish both baseplates but thought i might get reflections that might dazzle me so both will be copper flake, I think it will also highlight the polished stainless edges better. I was originally going with small bullet shaped thingys in the small holes but i've now scrapped that idea as i just didn't like it when i put some in, now i will be going with small rivet heads. Where the ends were cut off the cut went through the ashtrays so fill in pieces were made and welded in and smoothed off. There are quite a few holes to fill, some are stock but a fair few have been added by the various owners over the years. The original radio hole needed filling so i used the piece i cut from the top of the dash, no wastage here. The bar you see here is the hinge bar for the hinged opening grille. The piece was shaped to fit nicely and tack welded in place. Then fully welded and smoothed off