Need Help!!! Cant find starter to fit Chevrolet 283

See the line up dowel in the block it in upside down and it not long enough to stick out far enogh to be in the bell. Thats a problem .

 

I see what you are talking about, but in Matt's defense, he's no dummy and this isn't his first rodeo. I doubt seriously that he would make that kind of beginner mistake. I could be wrong, but like I said I doubt it.

Looks like he has an 10-11" large flywheel with the wrong bell. Unless it was a power pac or vette I am pretty sure the 283 and 327's early ones were 153 tooth flywheels with small diameter clutches, like the sixes.

The pressure plate for either the 10-10.5 or 11 incher mounted in the same locations. The real difference was on the trucks with the 12" clutches and those flywheels could use either style clutch. If memory serves....

 

Thought I better post this in my own defense. Don't really see what is wrong with the dowels. This engine was attached to a turbo 350. If the dowels moved when I put on the bellhousing you would see the paint mark.

Thanks everyone for the input. Just what I needed. I don't have a problem with changing out the bellhousing.

 

if you can get the diameter of the flywheel that will basically tell you what tooth count you have.

i have one of the starters that i mention above that i could give you some measurements off of.

JEFF

 

Yup, its a 168 tooth flywheel in a 153 tooth bellhousing (great pics , BTW )
Your options are......find a 153 tooth flywheel ( not that hard to find ) or change the bellhousing ( maybe not the best soloution , it will get closer to the floor and toe board) or run the mini starter.... (this being the easy way, but not period correct )
Dave

 

Remember straight across starter bolt pattern fit's the 10.5 stuff!

Staggered bolt pattern fit's 11" and 12" stuff so go from there.

Either install a 10.5" flywheel/flexplate or install an 11"/12" bellhousing!

Even a big CHEAP P/U 12" bellhousing and a large tranny hole spacer ring will do.

pdq67

 

im tellin ya, before you go changing all of that try the cast iron nosed starter, just pick one up at the parts store and run home and check it, if its wrong bring it back

 

Sorry tit, but it look's to have a 10.5" b/h on it w/ an 11" f/w or f/p so it ain't gonna IMHO fit.

And I sure hope he get's something to work, but if not, please read me again.

pdq67

 

the 168 tooth flywheel came with both a 11 inch clutch or a 10.5 clutch, the 11 inch clutch on a 168 tooth flywheel wont fit in a 10.5 inch bellhousing, i know from experiance, and ive been a parts man for 10 years, i still suspect the chevelle cast iron nosed starter might work, all im saying is try it before you take the hole car apart.

 

It sure wont hurt to try the starter. Ill post if it works or not.

 

That bellhousing does look odd. If nothing else, just get a new Lakewood scattershield. That way, your feet will be protected when you powershift that stick shift transmission.

By the way a starter for a 57 - 61 Chevy with a TurboGlide, works with the larger flywheel, but has a smaller diameter snout, like the bellhousing mount starters. The TurboGlide starters are block mounted, with 3 bolts, and can be used with the early cast iron bellhousings, without any modifications.

 

You have a 168 tooth flywheel (large diameter) on a bell housing designed for a 153 tooth (small diameter flywheel). The bell you need has a hump right by by the starter and then you would need the cross or staggered bolt starter. If you find the smaller diameter flywheel your bell would work with the short/long bolt starter with the straight across bolt pattern.

 

I just took a peak at the starter, save the time, it wont work! i didnt notice in the pic how small the side of the bellhousing was.

I ran into some trouble with my 283 in my 32 roadster, that has a speed gems adaptor and a 153 tooth flywheel and i figured i could get away with the strait accross bolt patern starter from a metric gm (79ish to 8? ish)which has the 153 tooth flywheel also, i was wrong, i ended up hogging out the speed gems belhousing, which doesnt really bother me, you have to make it work one way or the other, well after i got done hogging out the bell i held the starter up to it and started with the outer bolt, id be damned if the other bolt hole didnt line up in the block, so i drilled the new hole in the block! i figured i could take it all apart (which isnt fun because it had a 39 trans and the ford torque tube attached) or just keep on modifying the stuff down the line! it all works perfect now!

but in your case, get the starter that works and find the bellhousing that clears it, you may still need the chevelle cast iron noseed starter and just find the bellhousing that fits that.

jeff

 

Whiat period do you want it correct to ?
2010?
The Body year?
Or the Engine year?

You have a nice fitting engine bay with a compact bellhousing.

Use mini starter and all your problems are over. The best is a "Denso" starter with a 4.4:1 reduction
I have loaded a 454 corvette with 12.5:1 compression onto a trailer at the track using a denso starter
[ these things are tough,considering they are originally from a 2.4 Toyota Diesel ]

You could roll up a nice little "heat sheild" to hide the starter.

This would be similar to an "alternator on a flathead" which is acceptable here on the H.A.M.B

 

I dig your point of view. This is what I would do if it was me.

 

All....
This a 1958 283 corvette bellhousing....either fulie or carb
I have the same in my 51 jeepster with a corvette motor...