Son you need to listen to what these people are telling you. When you shortened the drive shaft you CHANGED the angles period! ever so slightly but they did change. Common physics.
I honestly don't think it's a matter of him not listening to us, I think he just doesn't understand pinion and tail shaft angles after all of these posts. If he was here in Phoenix, I could see what's up and solve it pretty damn quick. I'm gonna sit back and just watch from here on out. Best of luck, Chip
You mentioned feeling a vibration coming through the floor. Could anything be touching the floor pan somewhere? Just a cheap and easy thing to look at. I'm not buying into the pinion angle theory myself. I've thrown together some godawful rides and have abused pinion angles and have never run into what you describe. I'd be tempted to put the old trans back in too. It just may have to come apart anyway to find out what's going on. I'd hate to see you make up another shaft, you could probably locate a 2-piece shaft and hanger bearing with little trouble in a truck yard or post something in the classifieds. I've said it before, I like the 2-piece driveshafts in these trucks. If you do have a slight mis-alignment somewhere it is more forgiving. I've driven these trucks in all sorts of abused conditions and they were always fairly smooth, at least no vibration like you have. Bob
You apparantly don't know what you're talking about. Just for shits and grins, go out and put a jack uder your trans pan. Make sure you have a block of wood between the pan and the jack. Remove your transmission crossmember completely, SLOWLY lower the jack, and see how much the plane of the engine and trans can change with the engine mounts still bolted up. There's a lot of room for movement in those rubber engine mounts. Even more if they're old and worn. If your trans angle is out side to side, just pulling the trans mount bolts out will show you what everybody is trying to tell you. Get an angle finder.
I'm not saying that the imput shaft can't be screwed up, but if the vibration is speed related, not engine rpm related and is still there when the clutch is engaged or the truck is in neutral, I think I'd still be looking on the back side of the transmission. I'm kind of wondering about the transmission crossmember deal too. Doesn't a stock 62 use bellhousing side mounts? Maybe not, but my 60 model did. Larry T
Hell if it does have a bellhousing mount, motor mount and trans tail mount. What's to say that the original mounts weren't all shot out when the T5 was installed. Bad mounts can cause some nasty vibrations. Especially if the new transmission mount doesn't have much give. Then you couple that to a bad angle, and etc.etc. Remember the saying, "the devil is in the details."
this is what I was thinking... If the new crossmember doesn't put the ouput shaft at the same height as it was previously, then the angle will change. The engine/tranny won't be on the same plane as the rearend.
borntolose. Maybe yes, maybe no. MMMMMMM!!. I had thoughts like that. Motorcycle only means of transportation???. I would have got some bungy cords and strapped that fuckin driveshaft to the bike if i needed it back that bad. He must have very few friends.
That;s the guy I would go see. He really knows his chit. He set up the engine swap in my 55 Plymouth along with the disc brakes and built a ton of cars for people I know. http://www.texasoutsiders.com/TexasThunder/index.html
Dragsta, Did you ever figure out what that sound was that was mentioned in the beginning? I believe you described it as sounding like a broom on a concrete floor.
One thing for sure, IF the input shaft is bound against the crank it won't be long until we get a thread on why is my engine loosing oil pressure and making noises. Due to the thrust bearing being wiped out of course, but hey why check it before it becomes a bigger problem.
your mechanic is "kinda moody"?! i bet he's as happy when the check clears as you would be if he'd done it right the 1st go round.... my advice is find a new mechanic. 1 who maybe you don't have to humor to get good work out of.
I read the entire thread. WOW! who the fuck shortens a drive shaft like that? You're not exactly just ovaling out a hole to line something up. It rotates at high rpm. Balancing and phasing a drive shaft? Fuck that, me and my flux core welder here are gonna handle business. Secondly, the "mechanic" is a hack. I have a theory on how he made the trans crossmember... Remove stock crossmsmber. Let trans sag 6-8 inches. Using the finest material left over from dumpster repairs, fab a new trans crossmsmber. New crossmsmber doesnt meet up. Squeeze with C clamp til one bolt can get started. Trans tail shaft now pointed towards the dirt. Assure customer geometry remained stock. Oh wait I dont have to...
gent: yeah, i revved the engine and went through the gears with the driveshaft off. it was smooth and no vibrations what so ever. i'm seriously considering putting in the old trans. i'm going to do a few more tests this evening first though. i'm going to loosen the rubber trans mount on the tailshaft and see if that makes any difference what so ever. snarl recommended this a while back. some people don't even use a rear mount when doing a T5 swap. i'm not hopeful though that it will do much if anything. if it changes the vibration or lessons it, then i'll know that i'm on the right track. it seems to happen only when i put it in fifth but i'm not sure if it's not just normal trans noise that's coming into the cab because my floor is all cut up and the trans is hitting it. the vibration is my main concern. i don't think that it's the pilot bearing or the input shaft being too long because I RAN IT THROUGH THE GEARS WITH THE DRIVESHAFT OFF AND IT WAS PERFECT AND SMOOTH. trannyman: i'm going to contact texas outsiders later today. thanks! borntoloze: here's a pic of the trans mount.
When I have vibrations that get worse as speed increases it's 80% of the time the wheels/tires being out of balance. But I'm assuming you've already looked into this (haven't read all 12 pages of this). Also assuming you've checked wheel bearings and spindles and stuff like that. Otherwise it is an issue from your drive shaft rearward. (warped rear axles?...ah idunno)
it does seem like he's in denial. all the potential issues you guys have mentioned are ruled out cuz "that hasn't changed" or "my mechanic told me so" sometimes ya gotta bite the bullet and accept the idea that maybe it's not gonna be an easy fix. and why solicit advice anyway when you're just gonna ignore it without even considering the possibility that alot of these guys know their shit. hell man, i built an entire car based almost exclusively on advice from the hamb! works good too. other than a little ribbing now n then, these guys have yet to steer me wrong. for whatever it's worth.
Not if the output shaft is at the same height above the crossmember as it was with the original transmission. A longer transmission will meant that the driveshaft is shorter, and that means that the "transmission yoke to driveshaft" and "driveshaft to pinion" angles are changed. It does not change the pinion angle.
that's what i've been saying! today i got under the truck and really looked at it. i loosened the trans mount and took it for a spin and it was slightly better, i think... but then i got back, changed the oil and started looking at the trans as it's mounted to the bellhousing. one of the bolts is almost falling out and another on the same side is loose!!! i was going to tighten it up but then looked closely and now i see why the fuckhead left it loose, i can't get a socket on it. do i have to grind and or file some of those casting flanges? here's the pic!
The Jalopy Journal
