thanks i saw that new plymouth you picked up only in my dreams you take the statement ran when parked to a new level
Well I tell you what Joel, after seeing you bring your Plymouth back a little bit of rust out (the floor pans are all gone in mine) is not so intimidating. Your metal work is great. The old guy that had those cars was apparently thinking about swapping the engine out of the 36 sedan into the 42 coupe that was there with that had a locked motor, and he kept that engine turning by pickling it with Marvel Mysetery Oil , and Liquid Wrench, judging from all the empty tin cans laying around.
Looking great Joel I would start a list like that but it would be too long I am fixing the last bit of rot around my trunk opening...finally starting to see some light at the end of the rust tunnel !
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running better <object width="400" height="300"> <embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/145784958780522" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="400" height="300"></object>
here ya go Joel. I took a 1950 Plymouth steering wheel (it had the removable reducer collar that made it look like yours does) and drilled out the center spline. I then took a gm steering wheel and rough cut out the center of it and then turned it until it was a press fit into the Plymouth wheel. You will have to measure out where the hole has to be drilled for the horn prior to cutting the gm steering wheel. I couldn't fit the horn assy if I lowered the gm collar any more, so I welded each end and then made up the quart can spacer. the spacer has all the holes drilled for the gm wheel and the 3 additional holes to screw it to the Plymouth steering wheel. Hope this all makes sense. anyways here are some pix of the finished product and another steering wheel I will be doing the same with when I finish the wifes 53 Dodge truck. Bud
wow thats genius i like it i didn't have to drill my center out the 47 wheel has two teeth that are solid together like a key if you know what i mean so i took a file and ground down two spline teeth on the shaft but the back spacer on the wheel goes to far down so i have to grind that more flat so the wheel can really sit on the shaft your wheel is a work of art i think you just figured a side income attention everyone send you stock wheel to moparman lol
Hey joel torres; I've been following this since you started. It looks right. The whole thing. Keep on keepin' on.
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Holy Crap man...this is an amazing read/story/life lesson and a testament to human endurance and talk about teaching your kid some serious life lessons. So, so impressed with your attitude and your spirit. Good job man, its amazing to watch your car grow and to see you smiling with your son during the whole thing. Cool cool cool. I was sitting her questioning this morning about whether to reseal my tank and install my front crossmember myself on my 54 Ford (which are things I would have done in the past for sure because I had to ) and You have made my decision easy...hell yeah im doing it myself...no brainer. Thanks man for the great postings! Keep it up man.
hey man life is good even when times are hard someone else has it worst then me they dont have a toy to tinker on or a son to enjoy or a house too plop down in the a/c and watch tv i have so much i wish we all lived in one spot we would all be working on each others cars lol everyday would be a car show
ok big question here guys john (plym49) has a drive shaft and asked me too measure what i need to see if it will work im thinking cut my drive shaft in the middle attach it at both ends and weld angle iron across it that would give me the exact measurement right? but.... i have alot of suspension travel so first raise the car as high as it will go therefore the rear wheels come as forward as they can ( this happens due to the swing arms swinging the rear forward the higher you go ) then slide the shaft in and out of the tail to find the middle or furthest out it can go so in theory when i deflate the bags it would slide into the tail of the tranny perfect does that sound right? i go back to work monday temp for a couple of weeks
When I cut a drive shaft I cut into the weld bead right where the yoke casting and the tube mate. Cut just deep enough to get to the boundary of the weld, then the yoke will seperate. The yokes are press fit in place then welded, so after cutting through the weld some force/hammer is needed to pull it out of the tube. I haven't ever tried to splice a tube in the middle due to the apparent difficulty of balancing it.
oh i was only cutting it in the middle to make a mock up for a new one im not going to reuse this one i figure i would get the exact measurement if bolted at both ends and something welded in the middle but i have to figure how to compensate for the suspension travel
ok i took a sawzall and sliced off the drive shaft on the spare 47 chassis it is slightly larger dia. then the monte's so i slide it over one end then slide it back over the other end and hammered two large nails on the ends in between the two i lowered and raised the suspension and no movement back n forth so i think im good now i have to figure how to measure it to tell john this is the car lowered this is the car raised
ok i see movement at the yoke going into the tail of the driveshaft and i guess i didn't have the yoke in all the way i took the nails out pinching the two together and was able to push the yoke all the way in while the car was lowered i repinched it with the nail so i figured with the car being at its lowest point the shaft cannot go into the trans any further and when i raise it it comes out a little does that sound right?
MoparMan4GZUZ i am truely convinced that your way is the best option how much would you charge to do this for my wheel i really like how yours came out i can mail you the wheel and center hub
The yoke is NOT supposed to bottom out. Make sure it's out a 1/4 to 1/2 inch at the least when it's closest to bottoming. Great to see all your progress!
custom installing l.e.d.s in my original 47 tail lights when finish i should have 12 regular white and 6 super bright red for brakes <object width="400" height="300" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/146841222008229" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/146841222008229" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="400" height="300"></embed></object>
i got a 64 impala drive shaft today it bends in the middle and has the bearing to support it i measured it real quick and came up with 60" from center of yoke to center of yoke does anyone know if thats right i dont have time this week my job is letting me work 12 hrs a day it feels good to be back to work i have a couple more questions if anyone is a driveshaft expert can i call ya? message me the #
my friends bbq is this sunday all your guys are invited if you want sorry i forgot to post here i always forget till im laying in bed already
Joel, you would be better off finding someone in your area to do this as I am in Washington state and would need the column to measure off of too to make sure all fit correctly. I would think any qualified machine shop or another hamber in your vicinity could do this for you. I did mine with nothing more than a drill press, a step drill, an angle head grinder and a welder. Good luck, Bud
ok i can do that it would make a great tech article il work on it soon i will bore out the center then cut out the middle of the gm wheel then put it on a lath and spin it down to fit
Joel, with your mad skills, the steering wheel conversion will be one of your easier projects you will have completed. Bud
The Jalopy Journal
