Looks like a Ford front suspension/axle in there. When my dad built his '28 Chevy, he kept the parallel leaf springs but bought an aftermarket dropped axle. He mounted the axle between the springs and the frame with a C-notch in the frame for clearance. Then (if I recall correctly) he bought king pins/spindles and a GM disc brake setup from Speedway.
Nice work Ghost..3 months means your wasting no time! Keep up the posts its always good to see an old Chev come back to life!
ah...i should've looked closer at the pics...now i see the parallel spring are gone & it's a different axel, sorry. nice frame work, looks very clean.
I painted and mounted up the 34 chevy wheels and tires to make it a roller. I then decided to mockup the fenders on the drivers side just to see if I like the look. I guess for around town with these wheels it will work. I think I will have to bring up the back of the car a little. What ya think?
Comin along nicely. If it don't rub don't worry about it, but looks like rubbing is possible once you get it all together
That is what is nice about coilovers, I can adjust the ride height on the rear of the car easily. Well it's been about 2 months and not a thing to show for it. I bought a 26 buick sedan and had to take it apart for storage, and secure it for a future build. The 27 chevy is back in position, and I am ready to continue. I need to be driving this car by next spring.
I got a little bit of the door structuring done along with the ***embly of the door garnish moldings This really helped with the fit and finish of the doors to the body lines. It feels good to start on it again...John
I got a little more work done on the 27 chevy. I started on the upper steel body structure which will really help with strength, but I need to attach all this to the rear delivery door. I decided on this car to build a station wagon rear door, with a flip up rear window. It will still be a sedan delivery just with a station wagon back door. A good place to set my tackle box when I go fishing The inner structure to the rear door is fairly complete. Now to start the outer structure, and finish both upper and lower hinges. Have a look.
Ya never know. Stranger thing have happened. I might be driving along and I get the urge to go fishing. And catch a 23 inch rainbow trout. A mans got to dream.
I think that photo is photo-shopped...you were holding an empty stringer...I'm pretty sure the South Platte River in the background does not have fish like that in it... R-
Yeah you are right the south platte, can't compete. Photo shopped . Here are a few more from the same weekend. Mostly 20 to 23 inchers . Now let's get back to cars
In order for you to be driving this car by next spring...you need to quit going fantasy fishing...it's that simple...!!! R-
Mmmmm. I skin trout when I clean them. Hang the carc*** on a stick over open fire, just a couple of minutes. A delicate peel off the bones, dip in garlic ****er, Rocky Mountain sushi; wash down with ice cold Coors.
Dang Nash. Sounds good. I knew I shouldn't have posted these pic's around the dinner hour. Now I am getting hungry because of you.
Very wicked looking car! It's very slick! Has the perfect look!! I can't wait for more updates!! Great job!
Looks great. I have a question for you. How did you get the emblem out of your rad shells? I have a chrome (29 I think) that I want to finish cleaning up, but I do not want to break the emblem taking it out. Thanks.
The emblem is soldered to the rear piece then pressed into place. It needs to be pressed out from the radiator side very carefully trying not to put pressure on the porcelin face. Good luck
you got a ***le on an unfinished car?! how did ya pull that off? i'm here in co. too and just finishing mine up at least the running driving part and i'd love to be able to drive it while i do the bodywork!
Go to the motor vehicle office, and get all the information on a surety bonded ***le. and do every step like they say, and it will go smooth. You did not say if your vehicle has a serial number or not. That is the first step, getting the vin# checked for leans, or to see if it is clear or even in the system any more. Then get an appraisal for the vehicle, from a dealer of you choice. Automotive, trailor sales, Antique autos. (Whatever) if you know one this helps. the appraisal has to be on there letter head, and include the dealer signature, and the dealer#. The appraisal will be used to set the surety bond amount. the surety bond you can get through most automotive insurance companys and it is based on double the appraised value, don't let this scare ya because the amount you pay for the bond is a fraction of the appraised value. Oh by the way if you know of a dealer to do the vin# check, I would use them rather than a state office or the local police. I don't know why but it just seems easier to use a dealer than jumping through the state hoops. Hope this helps
Sweet thanks for the info. I figure its been there for 80+ years, I do not need to screw it up now! (Here I thought the shell was stainless, then once I started polishing it up and found out its chrome covered br***)
its an old T body on an aftermarket ch***is with a SBC in it. completely homebuilt so there's no VIN thus far. i always thought you had to take a VIN-less car to C.H.P. for an initial inspection and they would issue you a serial number and tell you where to put it on the vehicle. it's gettin close to done and frankly, i'm gettin nervous about the whole thing. it would **** to build for this long and be denied the right to ***le and register it so i cn drive it.
With a home built vehicle you will have to get an ***igned state vin number by the csp, They will attach it for you, then probably have to go through the bonded ***le like I stated above. It sounds like HELL but it's not that bad, but it's time consuming. Make sure you have reciepts for all the parts, and steel you used to build the car this will help.
Well I finished the secondary body structure for the rear door ***embly, and installed both sets of hinges. The bottom hinges are from a 35 chevy master, but the upper hinges are from the hardware store. They worked fine, and I will build a top out of round tubing for a cover for the upper hinges so they will look a little more old school when finished. I decided to cut the doors open and check how well I had done, and they were fine. I ended up with about a 1/8th gap all around. So I decided to build the inner rear door seal, for this I used 3/4 inch angle iron, that bends real easy to get the curve I needed for the body. This will act as a light, and a weather seal when finished. Have a look.
Well I never did like the flat roof design of the early chevy, or the model t bodys. I would not round out a T top cuz I don't think it would ever look right. But a chevy is fair game, and I think they can be made to look like a factory job. So I found a donor 30 model A back half, and upper roof panels, that fit the bill. A little trimmiing, welding, and some hammer work, it should work out just fine. And it will give me the curved roof line I wanted.
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