August Banger Meet means...

Happy b-day Weeks
Bill

 

I had had my A Banger around the block a couple of times, the front has a reverse eye spring and the front wheels are smaller than the rear (radial tyres). It seems to track OK but has a tendency to change direction by its self. I have all new king pins, tie rod ends and balls, shackles etc. my steering box is a possible culprit as I did not replace the worm or sector shaft just the bearings. As the caster and camber is set in the axel I think, could I have the axel in backwards? Is there any way to check, I added more toe in but it is still the same.
Brendan

 

Hey all. It's been a while since I've been here. Been sidetracked with some other Iron I've drug home. But back on the "A" again. Heres where we're at now. Working on the body to frame wood. Got the 39 trans all done with zepher gears and some chrome connected to the 28 block. Now, when we get home from the salt, I'll start in on the "quickey" I got from **** S. last winter. I'm excited again. SaltFlatMatt built me a header, and Cody supplied me some slicks. Going for a different look....Don't ask me what I call it. The Banger threads have always kept this project going on in my head, Thanks, you Guys, for that. Here's a few shots. 9"

 

Brendon1959,
Your caster should be set at about 5 to 7 degrees from vertical with the top of the king pin leaning toward the car. The caster should be set from the earth's surface rather than the frame. Hope this helps.
Ted H

 

Nine Inch, that is a fine looking car. I don't care what you call it.

 

Best of luck on the salt, all you guys. We'll be rooting for you!

 

All shot on a '59 Rolleiflex 2.8f on delta 100, no flash.

 

Anyone have more on this T?

 

That's a familiar pose from Clark. Same engine back in 2005?

 

Just a few minutes before that last shot was taken, he'd been taken to the cleaners by a fenderless coupe from the Birmingham area...

Fab pics, btw.

 

Great pictures Fur Biscuit. Good luck on the salt.

.

 

thanks guys. have 2 more rolls i shot, but it appears that one has been misplaced by the developers. the other i have to finish shooting (I know, cant seem to burn through 12 images)...was supposed to be advised as to when they will have the body on so i can get a couple of finished shots. i lurve 50's camera technology.

if i cant build something, atleast i can live vicareously through a camera lense.

 

You have lots of stuff to build! Get on with it

our new banger

 

prod...prod...prod...OHV's are so complicated, i need a flathead again.

 

here is an update on my tub

riley and other goodies to come after the cheaters show on the 29th
tk

 

Wow...love the tub.

 

T.I.D.D.,

Are those 18' wheels?
If so, what size tires are you running?
Are you running a stock A rear end?
If you were to widen the rear wheels, how far could you go towards the outside? How far to the inside?

Thanks,.

.

 

I realize your post was in regards to the 18" wheels but when I had my rear Kelsey 16" wheels widened I had them widened on the inside 1 1/2'" as I wanted the outside to appear stock with The 16" "beauty rims". This did create a problem because then the offset to the inside interfered with the safety clips. Of course this was because they were 16". I had to modify (shorten) the clips. This was with "40" brakes.

 

Bluto,
A question, do you use the Blue Hylomar? I need something to fill in and seal oil for a poorly fitting main cap. When I pulled it apart I found they apparently had used J B weld to fill in low spots. I ask because I know you are a big fan of Hylomar!

Bill

 

Bill

Hylomar is for mateing surfaces it's not structural and never hardens

Maybe Devcon pourable rubber you can get it in several dopps soft to bowling ball 2part and flexible fit the crank and use a parting agent.... instant seal

Make sure you got plenty of crankcase breather

 

Started the getting the ligths and some wires fitted today










.


.

 

Thanks Bill.

What size tires were you using on the 16" wheels.

I'm not looking for a stock appearance. I would like to run a 7.00 or 7.50 - 18 on a 5" rim and still fit them under the fenders of a 28 Tudor.

.

 

Guys,

I wonder if any of you "banger-heads" could put me out of my misery????

I asked this question on the Flyers Bboard (now there's a plug ) but the answer was lost when the old board went down.

How far is it between the Right side of the engine just forward of the Oil pickup, and the inside of the ch***is rail?
I need 5 1/2" b/w the engine and the inside of the rail, 13" back from the axle centre-line, in order to fit a steering box.

And, secondly, how far below the top of the ch***is is the crank centre-line?

 

Easy It is exactly 1/7 the distance between the middle of the king's nose and the end of his index finger with his arm fully extended


No wait that Whitworth......

Never mind

 

hey daddyo
they are 700-18
i dont' think you will have an inch and a half of clearance. when i put my wheels and tires on it i was worried so i stuck my hand back there. it was pretty tight between the fender bracket and the tire. i would say you could go 1/2- 3/4 but no more than that with stock brackets. i guess you could countersink the bolt heads and get a little bit more clearance
tk

 

King Henry or King Kong?
Some say "size makes all the difference"