How many of you guys do your own Hot Rod wiring?

One more thing - actually the most important. Run a ground wire right along with your 'hot' wire - just like your house wireing. I never rely on the frame ground, it will let you down. Read every electrical thread and you'll realize the problem is never in the middle of a conductor, it is in a termination or the ground. I run ground wires to everything and tye them to the frame often, this helps keep the frame at the same 'potential' as the battery. You might not be aware of this but voltage flows from the positive side while current (amperage) flows from the negative side and i don't think current likes flowing thru rusty old tin, corrosion, undercoating and a layer of roadtar.

 

Oj
yeah i plan on running quite a few nice grounding straps, from the back to the front from body to frame and frame to engine type deal..even if i get a kit and they dont supply, i already have the type of ground straps i like to use

 

Good Thread Von
I am planning on just buying a fuse block and doing the wiring myself.
As simple as my A will be it shouldn't be a big deal, I have access to wire and will use heat shrinkable wire labels on the ends.
Toying with the idea of wiring it up with a Key to give the system power then using momentary toggle for the starter and a seperate one for the fan, trying to keep it simple but make it so that if someone is not familiar with my car at all they won't be able to get it started.
Need to do some research on fuseable links to see how that should be tied in but the car won't have air or power accessories so just lights, gauges, ignition, fan, alt, starter, battery, maybe some heaters in the seats.
Of course I am not there yet so everything is subject to change !!

 

I've wired rods both ways, my next one will be wired from scratch, useing salvage yard parts

 

I scanned this picture from"Wiring systems" by Don Francisco. I couldn't find a date but there is no mention of the newfangled alternator. We actually drove across country before alternators were standard equipment. REALLY! we did.

I like it because it breaks up the complicated wiring diagram into the smaller systems that make up the entire harness. That is the secret. Forget about the dimmer switch when you are drawing out the charging system.

There were no "kits" when I started. Hotrods were basic and we had to learn for ourselves.

I always make a drawing. Headlights and parking lights at the top and tail lights at the bottom of the page. Everything else that needs a wire is drawn in it's approximate location in between showing each terminal that needs a wire. Ignition switch, HL switch, horns and charging system etc. etc. Then it is a simple process of drawing the wires between the components. That makes it easier to arrange the wires in bundles as they go from place to place. One system at a time.

Sometimes wires from different systems will run along with wires from other systems. Once they are broken down like this, it's a piece of cake.

If you take the time to do this, it will be easy to trouble shoot your hotrod yourself later if there is a problem. You will learn how things work so if it won't start, you will know where to look for the reason why it won't start for instance. Your drawing will show you where you ran the wires when you built the car. I've found that by making the drawing and referring to it as the car is wired the drawing well be burned into your brain and you won't need to find it. I can still tell you where every wire went on my 34 P/U that I built in 1980.

One thing that I disagree with in this drawing is that the ground cable for the battery should go to the engine block or trans case to prevent hot start problems. A ground strap from the block to the body or frame will work for the rest of the systems. (lots of info on this problem here on the HAMB)

 

Thanks,
Yeah mine is going to be fairly simple too.
No ac, no power windows, none of that kinda stuff..
I know Hot Rods are basic and bare bones type a deal, so it should be relitively simple to get r done.
I dont even need electric fan or fuel pump , so even more basic. But i want blinkers, and a few 12 volt sources for "someday down the road"

Im lookin' for some neat ideas on how others have done this, and how they ran their systems, how they hid them,what problems to look out for, and what other neat ways to wire up a hot rod.

im also not big on the wire crimp deals those blue or read crimp deals, i think they*****.
I love to use solder and shrink tube, i think its a much neater job and more positive connection if done right, those crimp connectors just seem cheap as hell to me, and end up looking like a boa consrictor has a rat in its belly once you wrap up the harness with tape

 

Electronics technition (40 years) so I've done it all, kits, from scratch, modified salvaged harnesses and even modified the engine management harnesses. Just depends on the build, the desired final product and of course the amount of money involved. Seems like I have more time than money most of the time......

 

I don't want to hijack the thread, but Steves32 brought up a good point- what have you guys used to cover wire with? Sure, there's the black plastic corrugated split tubes, but those are about as traditional os 22" spinner wheels. I'd rather run conduit under the hood as use that stuff (my preference- use it on your car if you like).

What are the options? I don't want the rainbow showing, either. Does anyone still make the cloth electrical tape, or is there a better option?

 

I've been wiring rods for about 35 years, and thought is the main component to consider. Use good wire of the right guage for the load, mount components where they can be repaired or serviced easily and are protected from the weather, cover all exterior wire, don't attach wire to brake lines, fuel lines, or along the bottom frame rail. Grounds are really important, so thread the bolt or screw into the metal, not through it. The engine compartment can be hard if you want to hide everything and keep the wire protected, so remember that plastic wire insulation doesn't like heat at all. Get a good pair of cutters, crimpers, and strippers so your terminals are solid. Wiring is like drawing lines between components, so once you do the job, you learn a lot about how the thing really works. That takes some of the unknown out of the car and makes you more comfortable with your build and your drive. It's easy, just don't rush things and think about what each step takes. Good luck.

 

Thats no Hijack,,good question,
I dont care for that corrugated BS either..would like to use something else, that looks a bit more "finished" than that stuff

I have some of that cloth tape you speak of at work, it doesnt seem to stick as well, maybe because its so dam old

 

No expert but have wired 12-15 cars-have used the kits and done it from scratch-a good kit works well but they all must be modified for your application. Don't scrimp on fuse protection and use relays for heavy loads-fusable links should also be used in the alternator circuit. I use the tar/fabric type loom that the factories used to cover the wire and seal ends with heat shrink-I never use the connectors with plastic over them-use the bare ones instead and cover with heat shrink both inside and out side the car. Always run an extra wire to the rear section and the front as well--never know when you might need it-and as many have said GOOD GROUNDS to everything-I make a ground buss under the dash near the panel and tie it to the engine and heavy grounds from the body to the frame to the - post--saves lots of problems-get a good OHM meter to check as you go
Also--always install a master kill switch--I use a hotronics on every car with a hidden switch--extra safety, theft deterent and saves the battery when parked

 

Olscrounger..where do you score the tar fabric looms?

I like to do my wire end connections the same way

 

Here's a post by Fat Hack from a little over a year ago that gives some good pointers.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343321&highlight=wire

 

thanks for that, funny ...it didnt come up in my search..wonder why

 

I will be using a Haywire system for mine. They are out of Joplin. They gave me a video to look at before I start. They also had loom covering that looks like black fabric in different sizes. Now I have to get over my fear of wiring. Nice thread and just in time for me.

 

There's a place selling cloth covered heat shrink. I forget who, it was mentioned here a couple weeks ago.
Randy, most kits are designed to mount underdash, driver's side. Wires for right side are cut longer. Mount it so you can swap fuses easily.

 

cool thats my location too, and if they are longer for the right side i can split the loom if you will, and run the right side stuff down the right side and like wise for the stuff on the left side.
make good sense to me.
a source for that cloth tube would be cool, I'll check around here. i think that would look much better

 

We used to call that tape tar tape. I hate it because it is very sticky and picks up all the dust and dirt and is impossible to keep looking nice. Vinyl tape can be cleaned with a rag and a solvent.

There is nothing wrong with my original 56 Ford harness so I am wiping it down where any wires are showing and it is coming out just fine. I have had to redo part of the harness due to my desired alterations. I wrap it in vinyl tape and it looks just like it did when it came from the factory. We always wrapped the wires with vinyl tape in the early years.

The factory wrap has no glue on the back. Once it starts to unravel you will need to use tape to secure it again.

 

I've done several cars over the years and the wiring kits are definitely the way to go. The Painless kits are expensive but are very complete. I plan on ordering the kit from Rebel when I get my current project ready.

I bought a little orange book called "How to Wire Your Street Rod From Start to Finish" and it has been very helpful. I expected it to be a book of wiring schematics but it is much better. The author breaks all of the different systems down into one page drawings and shows just about every way possible to wire up the different circuits.

 

I did a seach online a few weeks ago for wire loom.
All the stuff we use at work would look like**** on the car.
There are some good looking loom out there but wire has to be fed through it so will take some time to make everything look good.
Use good terminals and good crimpers if things are to be crimped, I consider my self a redneck but don't use redneck crimpers also called pliers to crimp terminals.
Something else to consider is heat shrinkable***** connectors that have a solder ring inside them that will melt with a heat gun and shrink at the same time, plus there is heat shrink out there that has a liquid made of silicone or something like it that will ooze out when heated to make a good water tight seal when shrunk.
Lots of goodies out there to choose from.
I like the idea of cloth covered heat shrink used as wire loom haven't seen any though.

 

I wired 1 (with a little help) and it suuuuuuucked! Some say it's easy. I say it's not. If you're not a super neat person your wiring job won't be either.

 

NAPA auto parts stores have a asphalt covered cloth loom in sizes from 1/4 to 1" that looks old time and is used in semi trucks these days. I use it quite a bit, the down side is again, you have to plan ahead and use a "snake" to push it thru.

 

tahks oldguard, i'll check in with my local NaPa dude

 

Take away the sauce, add some glass fuses, and this is what it looks like under the dashboard of my roadster. I've been too intimidated to tackle a complete re-wire but so far, over the years, all of my patch jobs have worked ok.

 

I've done lots of custom wire harnesses on stationary machinery and mobile equipment, and also on some cars along the way. Routing wire is an art form, and the aircraft guys were generally tops at the game. I've spent lots of time studying aircraft wiring and some of the jobs done on well-built cars.

Can't tell you how many times people have asked me to fix electrical problems in cars with really*****ty wiring. You know, wires all the same color, no labels, and you can pull any wire right out of a terminal. color coding and printed wires or labels are a must. A properly crimped terminal should withstand at least 10-20 pounds of pull without coming off the wire, and the wire should be damaged if enough force is applied to pull the terminal off.

Building a good scratch-built harness requires several gauges and many colors of good quality wire, good quality bare terminals, a good quality bare terminal crimper like a T&B, printed wire labels, a heat shrink gun, heat shrink tubing, and rubber covered clamps. I cover my harnesses with black woven vinyl in exposed areas (underhood, along the frame) except near heat sources where I use a black high temp impregnated fabric covering. I use clear heat shrink over printed labels on both ends of a wire, and opaque heat shrink over bare crimped terminals. I keep wires away from sharp edges and moving or hot parts, clamp them every 18 inches or so using rubber covered clamps, and leave adequate service loop at the ends of wires or any place where wiring transitions from body to frame or body part to body part. The best looking auto wiring jobs hide wiring from view but still leave it accessible for tracing or inspection.

I never use pre-insulated terminals (hard to get a good crimp, look clunky) split plastic corrugated tubing (yuck), or electrical tape (makes a sticky mess).

Most recently I've used a couple of Painless 18 circuit kits with a prewired fuse block and color coded wires also printed with function along their length. Most prewired fuse block kits are similar. They were so fast and easy I'll never make another scratch built harness unless its for a very basic car. Installation of these kits still required a good supply of bare terminals, a good crimper, several sizes of heat shrink tubing, a heat gun, the aforementioned harness coverings, and rubber covered clamps.

 

Randy, try bwire.com and brillman.com for cloth looms.

 

your just talking the cloth tube right?
i dont need or want cloth covered wires..too spendy for my budget..200$ verses 700$

 

I do it all. I do like the Painless fuse panel. It has plenty lugs for almost every thing you can think of. I wire the tail lights to color code most every thing else is some color or another but Hot power is usually red for obvious reasons.

 

I have used kits in the past, but I prefer to make my own, now. I usually buy a few ATO style fuse panels with about 6 or 8 terminals. I use one for battery power, one for hot with key on, and one for accessories. For relays the universal 5 prong work well and are cheap, readily available in a varity of amp ratings. I use relay mounting blocks to hang them. Although it might not be as pretty, I mount the panels where I can easily see them. Fuses never fail in good light. There are a number of good suppliers for the auto electrician. DC wire, though my favorite is Waytek. Both offer online ordering. Waytek will send you a free catalog, well worth the time to spend some time lookig thru it. Enjoy your project.

 

I'm days away from tackling my truck's wiring...
One wire alternator,kill switch and 71 factory wiring in the steering column harness are the only points I'm concerned with?
The RebelWire harness I bought from Glenn here on the HAMB looks complete and is easily grouped so I'm confident there?
I scored plenty of grommets,good shrink wrap and crimp connectors,zip ties and adel clamps for neatness.
Wish me luck!