Firing out the carb or down the pipe Out the carb start looking for air leaks and lean mixture also an intake valve sticking of bent a little Down the pipe is rich generall but a stucing valve will fire down the pipe too if it's an exhaust valve How old is the fuel? There's lots of things but my bet is wasn't the cam as long as it was installed correctly Have fun in the US
I'm with Bluto on this one. you don't have enough carb. I noticed you are running the stock intake and Carb. That is no where near enough carb for that cam. I run two 81's on a B cam and I think that is too lean some times. Stock cam should work better with stock carb. .
Bluto, Down the pipe,....fuel is new......... as for installation ..........it was done before i got the car, it was reported that the 'missfire' started once the cam was changed. Yes looking forward to our trip, roll on Monday Keith
We had a 97 fitted but took the 'easy' option to change the carb first, hopfully it will work better now, Keith .
I think I would have tried to get it running with that camshaft, I hope that it all works out for you! Send the cam to me!!!
Hi Keith Generally cams don't cause the problem you discribe unless someone installed REALLY WRONG. If you get to L.A. I will tell where to find Isky for lunch..... And you can tell him hello from us here in Poland You will never find a carb set like that....... Rooster Eggs Two Carter YF are good or Weber 34 ICH they cam be made to look old easily.
I think I would have tried to get it running with that camshaft, I hope that it all works out for you! Send the cam to me!!! i beat ya ! ...................... steve
Hey guys, new to the hamb and the banger meet. I am looking for advice, links, or books on doing a model a to model b engine swap. I've had a 31 pick up for 3 years now and just scored a model b engine for it. I not a mechanic but I want to give it a try and see how it goes. Any info would help, I don't want to spend alot of time or money on the wrong parts or the wrong approach to the swap. Thanks.
Cut off the portion of the B pan that goes around the flywheel, use the A exhaust manifold. Elongate the carb mounting holes in the B intake manifold so that the B carb can be lined up with the A choke rod. If you are not going to use the fuel pump (not necessary) make a block off plate. Take B carb apart, and if the float assy. has a spring- remove it - it compensates for the fuel pump pressure. Fill with oil and coolant. Enjoy! Herb Kephart
Hi everyone I've been on the lookout for a Model A to use for hillclimbing for a little while. Think I've found something that might do the job (an original speedster special), but I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts about improving handling. I heard (on the VSCC forums) about someone replacing the steering box in an A with one out of a Rolls-Royce 20-25. That might be a bit extreme, but any other ideas would be well received! Longitudinal rather than transverse springs, for example... Cheers.
hudson-b : If you can be sure to be in Northwood Ia on Sept 11 2010. F.A.S.T hillclimb. I will try to add an attachment. Gary in MN.
Riley Two Port OHV discovery: A the end of last month I posted a question about water leaking out from between block and head of new unstarted engine that had a Riley Two Port OHV head on it. After talking with many of you nad removing the head I discovered that for a 3 inch area (just about where the water outler is on the block) the OHV head has about a .005 hump in it. I used a machinest's square and a feeler guage. along the rest of the head the .003 and .005 gauge would not go under the square but in the area where the water was leaking out the .005 gauge went under. I did this with the engine block surface and could not slide the .003 feeler gauge under anywhere, so I know I have a good block. I guess the .042 composite gasket did all it could but could not over come this hump. I was thinking of using a thicker gasket to over come this area but then got to thinking, could I have this head machined to remove this hump and deck the entire surface? Has anyone has this done or experienced this with a Riley Two Port OHV head. Thanks, Dave
As part of rebuilding my 2 port head Taylor Engine resurfaced the head but I don't remember the amount of warp. Some times a shop will resurface the head to clean up pitting and to improve gasket sealing surface. This is not a major operation. Most automotive machine shops have resurfacing machines. They also resurfaced my 4 port as part of their rebuilding of it.
There are new shortened model "A" Pitman arms available from dealers. Some cut and weld the stock arms. I believe they shorten them 1 1/2" and have them Heliarced. This is an often discussed item on the "A" Ford Barn
what is the casting number for the early chev. head that fits on the ford banger with the adaptor plate. I have a two port chev head but don't know if it's the right one. thanks
AUSTRALIA,, I'm looking for an article that appeared in an Australian hot rod type of magazine a few years back. The article was about a "Lakes Modified" that featured a Whippet radiator shell. The car was painted White and had,I think, a Willys engine. Trying to locate photos for a friend.
The two port head is a 1928, and unless you want to try to find a Oldsmobile or Chevy 3 port head (and pay the asking price), and then convert that to 1 1/2-1 rockers (machine shop job) it is the one that you want. The rockers on the '28 head won't stand much revving before they bend. See the four cylinder Chevy topic here at HAMB. Herb Kephart
This one ? This pic is from the DLRA website, the others there are only thumbnails , the bigger ones have been removed from Photobucket. Car belongs to Rod Mappin.
This modified was given to Ted Robinette by the owner, who found he could not live with the car being recognised as being the previous owner's car, or so I am told. Willys four cylinder to a Hillman 4 speed, to a 2.75 rear geared borgwarner rear end. It could not climb over the tall gears, and only just made it to 100m.p.h. I worked on the car until 3 am the night before it went to Lake Gairdner, but by the start of the next day I was out of the "team" and never went to the event.
I had a similar experience with a different group of people........it takes all sorts!! My info was purely taken from the DLRA website, I should have probably said it was owned by ..........
Has any one ever thought of designing a H.A.M.B. banger badge or plate topper period style maybe with wings?
They are 'FLOATLESS'' That's what they say their made of brass and pot metal I think prewar or just post. That's all I know about 'em I got them at a swapmeet 30 years ago just cause they looked neat
It sure looks like the one and the description sounds about the same. I have a friend in Bakersfield ca that is building a lakes modified with the same grill shell with a chevy quad 4 for power. Thank you!!
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